This video is proudly supported by my friends at rock auto, more on that in a little bit, we have to get right to fixing the giveaway lexus and i want to start off with the broken sunroof, because it won't close and one of the nicest features of Having a sunroof is the ability to close, and this won't do it most. Every modern car needs the sunroof to be re-synchronized if you've replaced or disconnected the battery. If you don't do it, you'll get something like this. Oh, it almost closes, and then it goes right back it kind of doesn't know.

What's going on it's freaking out, and in this case all we have to do is bring it to the auto position. Hold this, let it go through its little cycle and we just got to hold this for about 10 seconds. There we go and now it closes all right cool, so that should be resynchronized. So let's go ahead and reopen the sunroof test it out.

So most modern cars have a one touch feature where you press the button, in this case a dial and then you can let go and it'll just do everything automatically and we're good, oh hold on. We don't want it to tilt, go back there. We go. It's fixed now some shops or dealerships will charge between a half hour and one hour of diagnosis labor or to fix your broken sunroof when all they're doing is a re-synchronization process that takes literally 10 seconds, so don't waste between 75 and 200 dollars.

For that one hour of labor, do it yourself save that money spend it on whatever you'd like and if you're near chicago? You can get yourself at least a couple two tree deep dish, pizzas and no, i don't actually use the term two tree, but some people here do so in today's video we're going to make the lexus 100 mechanically sound. So we're going to be doing some mechanical repairs, some maintenance and something that i'm always excited about, doing which is taking apart part of an engine, an older engine with some miles 114. 000. In this case and looking deep inside and while we're in there, we're gon na perform a little experiment on cleaning intake valves on early direct injected engines like this one.

So what is direct injection? Well, i am glad you asked and we've done some direct injection work in the past on this channel on the cadillac escalade on my 335i, and it is exactly what it sounds like. It is direct injection into the cylinder, so older cars with fuel injection have port fuel injection where the fuel is actually sprayed right on the intake valve and that helps clean the intake valve, but with direct injection. It's not getting sprayed on the valve, which means that the valve can get dirty depending on how good or bad the pcv system is all right, goodbye intake and goodbye nasty air filter. Well i mean it's not too bad, but we can do much better.

Now this fuel is getting injected into the cylinder into the combustion chamber at a very, very high pressure, and since it's not hitting the valve any longer, it can be atomized much better, which is going to increase performance and fuel economy. And now they can time the fueling very precisely, which means you can reduce, detonation or pre-ignition, which means you can run a lower octane fuel on a high compression engine. So it's good all the way around, except a lot of the earlier ones, had issues where these intake valves would get so carboned up that the engine could start to misfire, and this is one of those engines. So i have no maintenance history on this and i want to see how bad it is so we're going to remove the intake manifold, get up close and personal with these things and then clean them either way.

Now, what's nice is since there's no fuel rail attached to the upper plenum on a lot of these direct injection cars? It's pretty easy to get the plenum off. You just have to pretty much remove all the hoses and things attached to it. Wiring harnesses and they're kind of like designed to be removed easily because in a lot of cases you got to remove this intake to clean them. But in some cases you can run a fluid through the manifold and clean it that way and that's what we're going to be experimenting with.

Does that actually work, and now we can do one of these, and these are not torqued very high. I don't think they've ever been off, these intake valves might be kind of dirty yeah. We just want to be gentle. These can feel a little bit weird coming out i'll.

Tell you that much all right so don't go ahead and use impact tools, or anything like that on these, until they are loosened up by hand very, very important. All right, okay, should be the last one. Oh these things get stuck on there. There we go.

Okay. Can we sneak this out yep and we should? What are we ah another hose get out of here? There we go. Okay, that's gone. It's coming with us.

Plenum is gone with the upper plenum off and my boroscope camera in one of the intake runners. We can get a good look at how caked up these intake valves are, and i'm gon na show you the raw footage of the boroscope and a few of these intake runners in a minute, and then we're going to be putting the intake plenum back on and Running a fluid that i got right from the toyota dealership and the tool, so a former toyota technician gave me this tool that he used to use for years at the dealer and they would charge a couple hundred dollars to do this cleaning without taking the plenum Off so we're gon na, do it take the plenum back off again and then see what we have to see, but first a minute for an amazing sponsor and that would be rockauto.com. So i talked to my friends over at rock auto about the lexus mentioned that i'd be giving it away to someone in need, and they were all in, so they are supporting this project in a big way, with pretty much all of the parts. Now i've been using rock auto for years and you simply can't beat the price and if you guys remember in the last video, i replaced one of the downstream o2 sensors and i bought it for 116, at the local, auto parts store and on rock auto.

You can get two of them for less than that, and they give you little helpful hints like telling you exactly which oxygen sensor socket. You need to do the job right and the best part is rock auto, is gon na? Give you guys five percent off? If you go to rockauto.com and use coupon code legit, so a big thanks to rock auto for partnering up on this video and for providing all the amazing parts that you guys are gon na see throughout this video all right guys. Let me get you in these intake runners and show you the nastiness of early direct injection, and something i learned is the is 350 of the same generation was given direct injection and port injection, so that had kind of the best of both worlds. But the 250 didn't get that they just got direct injection on this and that's why we have that welcome to the inside of one of the intake runners.

So this does have intake runner flaps, as you can see here, there's one in each port and these are going to help out with fuel economy and performance it sort of makes for an adjustable intake manifold. So the computer can vary airflow depending on your rpm and a few other things, but we'll get into that another day. Right now we're going deep inside to take a look at this right here. Carbon and this one is pretty bad, so this intake valve you can see is just super carboned up and so is the runner itself that needs a cleaning as well.

Now, i'd like to note that this engine was running really nicely, so this hasn't affected anything yet, but eventually this can cause a misfire because the valve doesn't seat properly and you really want to clean this up. It's more of a maintenance item, probably every 30. 40. 000 miles in an engine like this and let's go down and take a look at another one, because they're not all going to be that dirty.

This one isn't too bad. It still has some carbon caked on it, and the reason why this happens is because the car's pcv system is not perfect. Its job is to evacuate gases from the crank case, and it does that by sucking them into the intake, manifold and burning them in the combustion process. Those gases go right, past the intake valves and they eventually start to stick and pile up, and then you get a carbon buildup like we're, seeing here.

Okay, so now that we have a good look at the intake valves, a good baseline, if you will i'm gon na, put it all back together, it's kind of a huge waste of time, but it's all for video purposes. I want you guys to see these valves really clearly so that once we run this cleaner through and we take that off again, we can see if it's done anything so i'm going to go ahead and put the plastic plenum back on and then i'll show you The deal with this guy, it's got a cool little dripper like an iv. You want to see something else: that's nasty, rodent, droppings. Luckily, my shopvac is a big fan of these goodbye, not perfect, but no more poo, all right.

So i have this put together as much as we need to inject our intake cleaner for professional use only - and this is literally what they use at a lot of dealers, a lot of shops. They charge about 175 to 225 for this service, and this is going to clean out the intake valves, the manifold, the combustion chamber stuff, like that. So we're going to put it to the test right now and it's a pretty simple ordeal: you're going to leave this little vacuum, tee open and then you're going to pull off a large vacuum source. So in this case, i removed the hose off the brake booster and we're sticking the tool right into this port here and we're going to be injecting the fluid into the plastic plenum.

And it's going to get onto those valves and supposedly clean them up and something. That's very important is that you want this fully closed when you start it up and we're going to watch this like an iv drip, so we want like one drip per second, you don't want to go too nuts, it's all going to get in there. You don't want to stream and right now, i'm slowly opening the valve and it's just going to suck it in all right. You can see it kind of there.

We go that's a little too fast, we'll slow it down a little bit. Okay right about right about there, that is a good drip. That's a good iv drip so right now the intake is sucking in our intake cleaner and it's gon na go through this entire can and supposedly clean up the carbon on the valve. So i'll.

Let this do its thing for a few minutes. This should take anywhere between five and ten minutes, depending on your engine and uh yeah. At that point, we're taking this off and seeing if it worked well, it's been about 25 minutes and we don't have an iv drip any longer, which means this little can is finally empty, and the fact that this took so long gives me a wee little bit Of hope that we cleaned some of the carbon off the valves, but i don't have a ton of confidence in these cleaners in this tool setup. I just don't think it's going to be enough to get some of those big chunks off.

I consider this more of just a maintenance item and there are the fans kicking on because it's been running so long, so the fans work well and now, according to the instructions we are to disconnect this apparatus, reconnect our vacuum hose and run it for about two Minutes varying the rpm by about 2 000.. All right, let's see if i can do this quickly, because the engine will die with this vacuum source open here we go. Oh yeah check it out, though, all right there we go so now, let's hop in and rev it up a little okay. So i varied the rpm for a bit and we didn't get any white smoke out of the tailpipe.

So what we're doing here is very similar to running a product like sea foam and sometimes with that you'll get a big cloud of white smoke and you got ta drive it around the block a bunch of times to get rid of it. We didn't get any of that, but it definitely smells a little bit different coming out of the tailpipe. So with that, let's remove the intake. All right - and here goes plenum removal number two in the last hour or so and uh the first time.

This took me roughly a half hour to get out, so it's not that bad just right now everything is hot. It's hot get this one in the back, all right! That was there and we are gone all right, we're going straight in with the boroscope here. This is the same intake valve that we took a look at first a few scenes ago and yeah that looks pretty much exactly the same. It's a little shinier, so maybe uh this stuff has soaked into the carbon a little bit.

Maybe some of this will come off later, i'm not sure but uh yeah. This basically did absolutely nothing. Let's take a look at the other one. Okay, this one wasn't that bad.

To begin with, i think this is the same one i was at yeah. I don't think it's done much in there either. Let's just take a look at a few, more yeah still tons of carbon there you can see this valve is slightly open and you can see the cross hatching in the cylinder wall there. This guy doesn't look too bad carbon buildup on the stem, but yeah overall uh.

This didn't really do all that much all right. So at this point we have to remove the lower aluminum intake manifold with the flappers in there, and that way we can get directly to these valves and i've actually had these soaking overnight. It's the next day. Right now, i film these videos, sometimes over the course of an entire week, so these have been soaking and penetrating oil.

Don't want to run the risk of any of this stuff, snapping and they're coming really nicely so we'll remove this intake and then i'll show you guys how we're going to manually clean all these valves all right, there's our last one. This guy should come right off there. It is cool. Oh, this is nasty.

Look at the carbon build up on the bottom side of the flaps wow. I don't think any chemical injected through the upper plenum would have a chance against this stuff. We're gon na have to manually scrape this off the intake. Ports of the cylinder heads are pretty nasty as well and, unfortunately, even with removing the lower intake, it's still quite a distance to get all the way to the valves down there.

So gon na be a little bit of a pain to clean, but that is okay. We are well equipped. I've used uh this intake valve and turbo cleaner from crc before on the escalade, and i really liked it so right now, i'm just gon na spray. This into the intake ports, where the valves are closed and we're gon na put a lot in there and while that's soaking in there i'll start to clean up this lower intake, i got ta get a table.

One of these days still working on the floor. It's no good all right! It's been about two minutes: oh yeah! I like butter. This stuff is gon na come right off. This is great.

I'm gon na use a brush. I hate using these wire brushes for the first time it was so nice. Now our valves are gon na, be nice all right. Ah, i can't believe this stuff is just sitting there right above the engine could enter the engine at any point.

But i guess a little bit of carbon at a time doesn't do any damage, because there's plenty of these di engines out there that rarely ever get cleaned and they're. Just like this all the time. Look at this stuff, it's nasty, let's just go for maximum satisfaction. Here, since we're not near the motor, we can use something like this, and this is still going to destroy my floor.

Sweet okay, a little brake cleaner! Oh this is so much fun. Look at all that this thing's gon na be faster. When i'm done. Look at that they're gold.

Let me finish this up and i'll show you the final product right about now here. It is all cleaned up. Super shiny! Look at that: no more carbon, no more power, robbing blockage right in the intake, ports and yeah. This is looking great and i'd say we gained at least 9.3 horsepower, so that was the easy fun part and now we're getting to the intake valve cleaning and the most important step of this entire procedure is making sure the valves are closed.

On the intake valve. That you're working on so you can see there. I have a 22 millimeter on the crank bolt and i've turned this engine over now. Most of them are going to be closed and we have this guy.

That is open, so you must use a women's pink tank top to block those ports off. I get rags from all my neighbors, like everybody in the neighborhood, comes by with bags of old clothes. So this is what i'm using here, but you want to block off the intake runners to the valves that are open, so these guys are open. These are all closed and pre-soaked.

So now we're free to work on those because you don't want any debris going into the cylinder. So with these valves open everything would just go right past them all right, so off camera. I cleaned up most of the intake valves and this is a very repetitive job, so i'm not going to show you how i clean up each and every one of them. I will show you the final results here in a minute, but i've saved the worst ones for us to do together, and these are the first valves that i showed you guys in the boroscope footage.

They're really really bad. So i made sure that those are closed and now we're gon na use the women's pink tank top to cover up these other ones, because i've spun the crank around. So we have some open valves somewhere. I don't know which one, but these are definitely closed and nasty, and let me show you how i make them clean first step is soaking the valves in the intake cleaner and i'm pretty liberal.

With this stuff, and in the next step, i use a wire brush from this kit that i bought off of amazon. This is actually a diesel injector seat cleaning kit, but it works for pretty much cleaning anything like this, so i like this guy here. It's probably time for a new one, it's pretty nasty, but then i just go in there like so and just start getting the intake runners. So we're mostly doing this to clean the inside wall of the chamber.

So we're not really touching the valve just yet, but we're just cleaning up around it and with this tool you're not supposed to use a drill, because these will shred apart. So this is all done by hand, and really you don't need a drill if you've let this cleaner soak in there. This carbon gets pretty mushy and is actually pretty easy to remove. After that, i just spray a little bit of brake cleaner in there and then stick my leaking air blow gun in here with a rag to cover and just kind of blow it out.

And then you end up with something that looks like this. So the walls are clean, but the valves are still pretty dirty and you don't need shop air to do this it'll. Just take you a little bit longer. If you take a screwdriver on a rag and kind of just jam it in there, you can soak up all your fluid and clean everything up pretty well and another method to all of this is walnut blasting, but i'm showing you kind of the at-home diy method.

This is very inexpensive and you don't need any machinery or equipment and walnut blasting can get a little messy and a little dangerous if you accidentally leave a valve open and get walnuts down there. So anyway, that's for another video. I've shown it before, but we are doing the chemical cleaning version and with walnut blasting you definitely need a shop air source. So at this point we are going to attack these valves kind of like a dentist attacks, your teeth, and today's dentistry kit involves a flathead screwdriver.

This little guy right here is clutch. I love it and then various picks, so we're just simply going to go in here and we're going to find little bits and pieces of carbon. It's going to be really hard to show you guys, but you're, going to basically just pick them away. You're going to scrape away at the valve, i'm trying to show you this as up close and personal as possible.

My main camera won't capture it, but i have the boroscope in there holding it with one hand, and i have the pick in there with another hand. You can kind of imagine what this is like, but in real life, it's very satisfying just kind of picking away at this carbon and with these little tools you can get all the way around the valve and make this look pretty good. So anyway, just kind of scraping it away. You can kind of see the shiny valve in there a little bit and yeah i'm gon na just continue to do this.

For probably, i don't know three or four minutes each valve and in between just spray with brake, cleaner blow it out clean it up some more spray it with brake cleaner and when we're done, you get something that looks like this. So it's not going to be. Absolutely perfect: this is where the walnut blasting has a little bit of an advantage. So i'd say this is about 90 percent, but for all intents and purposes this is great.

This is clean. We have no more big chunks of carbon, and this is going to flow air much much better. I got to blow this out a little bit more. The brake, cleaner residue is still there, but yeah overall really happy with this.

It took one can of brake clean and one can of the intake cleaner, so maybe about 12 dollars in fluids. With that everything is cleaned up. I vacuumed out all of the mice poop we're looking good. We have our brand new gaskets ready to go on so before the lower intake and the plenum go on.

I'm gon na go ahead and swap out the spark plugs because we're doing some maintenance on this lexus as well, and i'm gon na be using some denso spark plugs. These are like triple platinum, iridium, crazy, expensive, awesome ones, that'll last the new owner of the lexus forever. So let's get one of these plugs out right now and see how old they are all right. So this broke free pretty easily.

So now we can zip her out, see we got things, don't look that good wow. These are caked up, so these are denso iridiums. Also, that's what i'm going to be replacing these with so the exact same spark plug and look at these plugs nasty. So replacing these and cleaning up those intake valves should make this guy run much much better, all right so out with the old in with the new there.

We go start these by hand, one down five to go. All right plugs are all done and look at these nasty little guys. This is horrible wow, hopefully the densos that i just replaced it with last much longer, but for all we know these could be original. I don't know.

Let me know toyota guys do factory is-250s. Come with iridium denso plugs all right: new intake, gaskets, going on our super sweet and cleaned up, lower intake manifold, just like so all right, we'll install the nuts half of these are nuts, the other half. There are some pretty decent sized bolts and i think this gets torqued down to 21 newton meters. I got ta check, it's aluminum, it's a lot more than the plastic plenum.

That's probably next to nothing. Oh, this car is gon na. Thank me. This looks so good.

A little torque and last one click, click click we're good. So i got ta say that intake cleaner, that we ran through the engine. It did you know clean up these plastic ports a little bit, but you can see here. Stuff is just dripping right out.

I don't even think it's making it really much past this. It's all just collecting inside of this plastic intake, look at that. That is all the cleaner right there all right new plenum seals are on. This thing is as clean as it can be, and this thing's pretty easy.

We got a hose back here and i'm a professional. Now, i'm a professional upper is-250 plenum installer remover got the hose on and all right, okay cool. Now it's just a matter of screws that are really far away. I think this one is 12 newton meters, something like that.

I'll double check, though, because you can crack these plastic intakes, so verify your torque we'll button this up, and then, let's see how hard it is to do a belt on one of these, it kind of looks a little buried right now. Okay intake is buttoned up now, let's replace the belt. I think if we remove this gigantic air intake scoop it's like a cold air intake. If you will, that should give us some room here to get to the belt, i think and yeah it does yep i'm drawing out a little diagram for myself, because i don't feel like looking it up on the internet, t for tensioner eye for idler above there Under there above there around the crank under the tensioner around the water pump, all right there we go, you guys are wondering here is your resource, that is the belt routing for a lexus is-250, very professional.

This should be adopted by toyota. Okay, let's take a look here: yeah, it's not that bad! So here she is looks kind of old, but it's not really cracked up or anything. This probably could have stayed we're not getting any belt noise or anything like that. But uh.

You know for about 15 bucks 20 bucks much rather just get a new belt on and call it a day brand new belt, and i get to follow my nice little map. You don't have to look anything up on the internet and wonder so we're going around the water pump under the idler over the alternator around the ac compressor around the crank and around the tensioner. I said around the tensioner get around there. We got it.

We're good belt installed all right: okay, we'll throw on our factory cold air induction kit here only came with one bolt, but i think that's going to be enough. There we go all right, so i've just vacuumed out the air box before we put our new filter on, but before that we got to clean the mass airflow sensor, all right. So this is our mass airflow sensor. It lays in the intake track and it senses the amount of air going into the engine.

It sends this information to the computer and it's able to adjust fueling timing, all sorts of cool things like that and most of them just pop out just like so, and these are actually kind of expensive on toyota. I believe these are a couple hundred bucks. So if you ever have what you think is a failing, mass airflow sensor, there's a good chance that it just simply got dirty and you can clean it out with some of this stuff right here. Mass airflow sensor cleaner and it's really really difficult.

It's very difficult. What you're going to have to do here? You might want to bring this to a professional you got to take. This can depress this button and spray the cleaner all over the sensor, get in there real good spray for about 10 seconds or so, and then you got to let this thing: dry, yeah, you're, gon na have to wait like 10 minutes or so or blow it Out with some air gently and let it dry so i know it's very difficult guys. This is definitely something you should probably go to a shop and spend you know five hundred dollars on, because there's no way you could do this at home.

I keyed i keyed. This is a very, very easy thing to do and i never believed that cleaning out a mass airflow sensor could fix an issue and it's true the first time i actually fixed a car by cleaning the mass airflow sensor. I was blown away. It had a code for a bad mass airflow.

Everything pointed to just simply replacing it, and i was like you know what let me try this stuff. It's like eight bucks, a can and it worked. It really worked. So it's definitely worth a shot and you can do this also as preventative maintenance, so mass airflow sensors can get dirty and not totally fail and that'll cause poor performance.

So you clean it up every once in a while and you're good to go, i would say every time you replace your air filter. Just give this a few sprays and you're good. That can should last you years all right, throttle body clamp is tight and we are done with engine performancy type of stuff and we're moving on to some more heavy duty work. Some work that's very important to getting this lexus into tip-top mechanical condition, and that would be the brakes and the suspension for those of you who thought that this video was done.

You'd be sadly mistaken here at legit street cars. We get it all done in one video, so this is gon na move a little bit quicker now and if you haven't already hit that subscribe button, it's totally free and it really helps out the channel and here's. What we have next, we have pads and rotors all the way around. If you remember in the last lexus video these things cleaned up pretty well, but after i checked the inside of the rotor, it just had too much rust for my liking, so we're swapping it all out brand new pads.

We have quick struts all the way around. We're going to replace the other o2 sensor and then stick another one in the trunk, because i accidentally ordered two. So he'll have a spare bullet o2 sensor. We got a brake flush coming.

We have some coolant. We have some cabin filters. I don't even know what else we have, but right now we have a gun on the wheel. We need to rip these guys off.

I really don't even need the air compressor that much in this shop anymore with electric tools. Look at that beast all right! Last lug, not even close, these things are rusted on hammer time, we'll start off with the mallet here and see. If we have to get crazy yeah, we got to get crazy. Okay, so we're going to hit it on the inside tire and probably hit the rim.

A little bit got ta. Do the old mule kick so when i was a dealer tech for mercedes-benz. I also did roadside assistance, so i've changed like thousands of flat tires, and this always works watch every time. Every time are you kidding me this always works.

I got ta just hit it at the top yeah see. I told you, you didn't think it was gon na happen. Did you it always works and you don't mess up the wheel because you're using the bottom of your foot, i mean your shoe so wow these tires are really really bad, so yeah now i'm hoping that these brakes aren't rusted solid on here i might have just Opened up a huge can of worms all right all right. I can hear you through the comments section.

You want to see another mule kick here. We go yeah done, can't do that with a hammer. Should i just show you all of them and who knows? Maybe you're still a disbeliever in the mule kick and if you're ever really angry this kind of gets the frustration out bam. All right that was that was excessive.

I didn't i didn't need to do that. Wow. Look at this tire, this thing's, about to pop okay. There we go all right.

Look at that old, rotor yeah! This isn't too bad probably would have cleaned up after a few miles, but i'd rather set them up with some brand new brakes instead, okay, not that you have to remove the brakes to do the struts, but i'm gon na go ahead and knock out this strut, While we have just a little bit more room probably doesn't make any difference, but this one is leaking out really bad. So this left a big puddle on the ground and uh. All the fluid inside is gone as you can see, it's wet all the way up here and we have quick struts to replace it. So we just got to zip off this bolt here and there may be a few nuts up there and the whole thing should drop out.

Hopefully you don't have to play with this control arm at all. Look at that spider! Look at that guy! Your days are numbered spider. This isn't your home anymore. It's gon na be all cleaned up soon.

Look at that guy! Look at him! Oh here's! Another one! Look at this guy there! He is there. He is there. He is there. He is there.

He is! Ah, he's gon na bite me. Oh, my god, is he my glove shoot? I think he is in my glove. These spiders are attacking me. They don't want me to fix this car.

It's getting fixed, it's getting fixed little nests of spiders all right here. We go all right, geez, breaker bar, oh just turn. There we go. That's all you got.

Ta do okay! You now want to run in any problems. I'm working on this thing for a couple days now, and let's just have this - go smooth steel, spiders yeah. There is a lot of wiring here all to run blue lights. This car's got a ton of these blue lights, just hiding all over the place, so i'll have to cut that out, but normally i would use a screw jack on the bottom there to release the pressure, but i don't have that at the shop yet so we're Gon na go ahead and hit the nuts up top, and luckily these are protected from the weather, so they're coming really nice.

There we go okay. I think we just need to remove this end of the control arm as well. Okay, so with no screw jack, just got ta jack this up with the floor jack, and i already loosened this bolt here. It should come right out now all right, i'll, lower this all right.

All right. Let's take down take down the sway bar link too. Okay. There we go now we got a ton of room.

Aha figured out why this isn't going anywhere got a couple of bolts. Here we got to remove there, we go all right old, quick strut is gone. All right comment if you've commented about this. Rust be honest.

Let me know down there: if you mentioned that the car has rust on the quarter panel, all right, it's getting fixed. Don't worry, don't worry, we're doing mechanical stuff, then body shop stuff, so it makes it to the body shop safely and we're gon na fix that rust properly. So it doesn't come back all right. There we go new, quick, strut, almost installed.

All right, strut is all buttoned up. Let's get our brand new rotor on here all right. Let's get these brake pins out of here slowly but surely come on all right and you all right cool breakfast number, one all right break pad number two see these really weren't that bad at all, but uh, that's okay! We got brand new rotors, we got ta. Do new pads, you guys have seen me - do brakes a million times, but i'm gon na get some of the supplied brake goop on the pad here on the sides a little bit there too, where the piston contacts the pad and rest in piece.

My gloves all right i'll put the hardware on, and this is all done, one out of four all right. Moving on to the front, please don't be rusted in place. Oh, you are good because you're, a good toyota, i'm sorry. If lexus people don't like it.

Some people call their cars toyotas, but it's true. It says toyota all over the place and these bolts are coming right out. I'm loving it. I hope i didn't just jinx myself all right, all right, no problem.

I like butter like butter, i'm really hoping these threats are a lot easier. The rears without a screw jack, just a pain in the butt to get back into place just trying to get the bolt in the hole it was difficult. Okay, pad's coming off and rotor come on. Rotor needs a couple: love taps needs a couple: more love taps, even more love taps there.

We go didn't want it to do that, but we got it. Okay, never mind guys, never mind these really aren't bad at all. I totally could have left these wow all right after inspecting them. I went for like another five mile drive and that must have been what cleaned them up the next guy will.

Thank me there's a little bit of anti-seize or brake paste. This is all you need. You don't need to go too crazy and these will release very easily. The next time take this brake line off there.

We go. Take these gigantic spider, webs off sorry, spiders and ruining your home all right. I've been soaking the nuts for the struts here for a few days, so these should come easily yep time for the lower shock bolt all right. Let's see if this bolt will come out and not give us too much fuss all right, let's give it a little help there we go.

I want to pull this spindle back, so we're going to loosen up this upper ball joint pop this out of its joint, bring it down a few good whacks will loosen it up like so get this out of here. Okay, awesome: let's look at this room! Okay! So if we push down on this just a little wee bit, this guy should come come on baby there. We go all right, much easier, much easier than the rear, no spiders lots of spider. Webs, though, and we're good and in with dust, shiny, quick strut.

This isn't a german car. I don't know why i'm whipping out the old das, but we are because i'm excited because we're sort of kind of almost done with all this, maybe not really for you guys it'll go by quick. That's for sure. I still have the other side to do not even done with this.

Yet now you just got to compress car springs with your own. Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, i got ta say i really do like working on cars. All right. It's really stress relieving! You just beat on stuff all day all right, i can't leave you hanging there.

I know none of you believe that i did that with my own strength. So this is the trick if you're having a hard time lining up the hole in the shock with the control arm. You get the bolt going on the opposite end and then you can take a punch and stick it all the way through and then you can manipulate this shock, move it around until you're able to get the bolt to go through and then it'll pop out. The other end and then push this out of the way, and at that point it's far enough out for you to get the nut and you're good to go with the bottom bolt in you can squeeze the upper control arm right into the spindle, get the nut Started bottom bang about a boom.

All right click click, oh click, okay, got our pin is in new shiny rotor is on and you guys have seen me do breaks a bunch of times. So i'm going to wrap up uh the rest of all of this and we're moving on and there's something about a fresh set of pads with new hardware. Oh greased up, there's just there's just something about it. I don't really know what it is.

They're awesome, new brake pads are awesome. I don't really have the biggest vocabulary. Okay, i'm a mechanic. I just work on cars.

That's all i do all right kelpers on and we are done on this side. All right breaks and struts are done. The gloves gave up a long long time ago. This side gave me lots of problems, but it's done it's done.

We have pads and rotors and quick struts all the way around and now it's time for another o2 sensor. I still have so many so many more hours to go, but i'm getting this done tonight because tomorrow, a welder's coming for my v12 cylinder head and then the next day is saturday when the video is supposed to be out. So i have no choice. I will be here all night.

If i have to this thing will be mechanically complete. All right, you guys saw me, do the other side in the other video. So i'm not going to take too much time on the o2 sensor, but basically i'm replacing the other rero2, because that one went bad. This one's probably the same mileage.

Okay, oh and it didn't give me any problems all right, unplugged. This thing from the car here is our old 02, and here is our new o2 much prettier. Looking all right, let's go plug this in and replace some probably nasty cabin filters all right. There is our new o2 sensor plugged in, and this is where the cabin filter lives right in here, so we're gon na push these guys up and pull it out.

You can see the blower motor right there and look what i found in the glove box, a lexus, lemon law guide, so yeah, not something you want to find in your car. You know this car doesn't really smell all that bad. Considering how nasty this is so i'll swap a new one in we'll flush out a couple fluids, and then, let's see how this engine runs all right, so we'll give this lexus some fresh coolant there we go. This actually doesn't look too bad nice and pink still haven't gotten my drains in yet so you know using milk cartons, i'm finding in other people's recycling bins should probably label this, do not drink or just dispose of it right away.

Look at the brake fluid we're getting out of this thing, pretty nasty i've seen worse, though, and luckily these bleeder screws are playing ball, not too bad. All right, let's happen her up with brake fluid good there. This is a universal coolant, so it works with everything. It's from amsoil i've used it on euro cars, japanese cars, american cars works, great, all right, cool and flush is done.

Brake fluid flush is done, we're almost done. Let's just throw some beauty covers on and that's all she wrote. So the only fluid that i have not done would be the transmission fluid and the reason for that is, the transmission works perfectly fine, and i spoke to some toyota techs and they said this generation toyota. If the trans is working well, just don't touch the fluid.

If you don't know the history, which i don't and i think technically, toyota says that this is lifetime fluid. I don't really believe in that, but we're not going to open up a can of worms. Sometimes, if the fluid is original and you swap it out, you can end up removing some of the friction material in the fluid. That's helping the thing work, so i don't suspect any issues with the trans and i want to keep it that way.

All right. This guy goes over yonder lots of beauty covers one last one, the v6 lexus cover that is the most important as it lets. You know, this is a lexus, not a toyota. Okay, that tab's broken we're good.

The one thing i forgot to order were the hood struts, so we got those on order. Now i got to order a bunch of clips for these too. So with that we're done well, the shop is now a gigantic mess. Here are most of the old parts.

We have a sparrow 2 sensor for the next new owner, the belt and plugs are in the garbage. I got a lot of cleaning up to do. Okay, well, hang on. I got to start it up for you guys after we did all that cleaning of the engine.

Let's see if there's any smoke that comes out of the tailpipe, okay, totally normal totally normal. We had a lot of stuff disconnected for a long time. Oh yeah wow not really that much smoke just a little. Well, let's give that another start.

We go there. We go. I like it. Someone else is going to like this thing too, all right guys.

This is probably the longest video i've ever made, but i had a lot of fun. I hope you guys really enjoyed this. I hope you're enjoying the mechanical repairs, the electrical repairs. We did last time in the last video, so i'll link a lexus play video.

This is the third one and if you guys have enjoyed the series thus far you're gon na love, the cosmetic restoration and detail work that we're about to do to this thing, so the plasti-dip is coming off. The wheels new tires are on their way uh. This is going to the body shop next, so i'll, throw these wheels and tires on bring over the body. Shop.

It'll probably be there for like a week or two so i'll work on some other projects, like my svt lightning and my v12 engine in the meantime. But as soon as it gets back from the body shop, you guys are gon na see like a whole new detail, bay area that i'm putting together with some sweet drain tiles and an awesome pressure. Washer. And then the guys from chicago auto pros are coming here and we're gon na detail this car and make it look brand new.

So with that it is midnight i am going to clean up, go home and go to sleep uh. I hope you guys really enjoyed this one and, if you did don't forget, hit the thumbs up button share the video with your friends and family subscribe if you're new and most importantly, have an awesome day i'll catch. All of you in the next video you.