Welcome back to legit streetcars and welcome back to another. I finished everything in one video video and in today's video we're finishing everything on this: the twin turbo, v12 mercedes amg engine out of this, my 2005 cl65 amg. So this is gon na be one of my longer videos, but you guys know the deal. You know the rules grab yourself a beverage of choice, a snack perhaps sit back, relax and enjoy the show and make sure to watch the entire video from start to finish.

Like i know you do with all of my videos, because one of the most important youtube, analytic metrics is watch time. So, if youtube sees you're watching more of the video, they recommend my videos to more people. We end up growing to the largest automotive youtube channel. In the entire history of the world - and you can be part of history just by simply watching the video all the way through so if you're not gon na, do that maybe next time you hop in the shower just let one of my videos ride.

In the background that that's the same thing, so without further ado, we have a lot to do so. Let's get right to work, we're just picking right back up where we left off in the last video, which is installing the other cylinder head. So i've already cleaned everything we have our new gasket on i've lubricated, the inside of the cylinders, so that on our initial first startup they aren't bone dry because this thing's been sitting here for a very very long time. All the guides are in place and we have the turbocharger bolted up to the cylinder head, which is cleaned off as well.

Now. The difference here is that today i have a different helper and i'm basically going to be manhandling the entire cylinder head myself, but luckily i have a highly highly trained apprentice here that is going to help guide. What is that? The timing thing the timing chain? Good boy: okay, i'm gon na guide that okay make sure that that's not touching anything, and it goes in there perfect. Okay, how's that timing chain, not bad.

That's bad! Okay, straighten it out good boy, i'll hold it up. Can you hold it up for me, you got it good, pull that pull that up. Good perfect now hold that timing chain up for me. Okay, all right, we are almost there.

Just got ta find the good old dowel pins. Oh! Is that good, all right cool? We got that got the cylinder head on where's my apprentice, good job buddy. I wouldn't have been able to do it if you didn't guide this timing chain and hold it up for me. You know that all right now, what do we need? Next, oil no sewing cylinder head bolts, okay, so i torqued this cylinder head in the last video, where i speak to you guys about how i quit my full-time job to do youtube, full-time i'll, leave that linked down below.

So i'm speaking, while i'm torquing - and i did follow the specific sequence - we did our angle torque. Some of you had wondered why i didn't use the digital torque wrench for the angle torque. This will do it, but it's 3 8 drive it's much shorter than big bertha, so it's just easier with that. So next up we have to install the last camshaft and i'm going to show you guys how easy it is to time an older mercedes, v12 engine, and then it's all going to be coming together pretty quickly because we're going to be going to battle with this Entire mess right here and speaking of going to battle, i'm doing battle right now, playing raid shadow legends, and i can't believe we're getting these kinds of graphics on a phone or tablet.

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Chinoro who's great in the doom tower you'll get 200k silver one xp one energy refill, and one ancient shard and you're gon na find an extra reward in your inbox for the next 30 days. So a big thanks to raid shadow legends for continuing to support automotive content creators like myself now, let's go to battle with this table and get this thing bigger needs to grow now the last part of torquing the cylinder heads down would be the smaller bolts. There's two on this side and two on this side that go to the front timing cover, and i want you guys to place your guesses down below right now. How many newton meters do you think we have to torque these bolts to all right? Don't cheat! Don't cheat but it's very little: it's only eight newton meters or about six foot pounds of torque and i will double check it.

I'm doing a little more because we have this extension on here, but you really want to double check your torque specs. There are little tiny screws that don't require much and you can snap them off. If you don't follow these torque specs, so we are good to go there all right. So i wanted to show you something before we get that other camshaft on, and that is that we are going to place the harmonic balancer back on and we want to make sure that this is right at 30 degrees.

So there's a mark on the timing cover right at 30, so this is going to put the pistons exactly where they need to be in order to time this engine. So it's always good to have that set up before you install your camshaft, because you are going to be opening valves as you torque the cam down, and we don't want anything to interfere with anything, that's very, very important, so that is already at 30 degrees. It was for this cam uh, so let's get this guy on. So, just like the last video, if you guys, watch that it's going to be a little bit awkward, putting this cam in, because we're actually going to be pushing this down with the caps as we tighten them in a specific sequence.

But before we tighten these caps down, we got to make sure this cam is where it needs to be so we're going to use our cam retaining plate, and this is how you set the timing on these and with this plate. Now we know the cam should be tightened up right about there. I've cleaned up all the cam retainer bolts and i have blown out all these holes with some brake, clean and shop air, and now we're going to use a little bit of engine assembly lube. Basically, wherever there is contact or moving parts, so at the top of the valve bottom of the lifter, we're gon na put a little dab there.

I like to get some on the rollers also and i'm pretty liberal, with this stuff we're going to be changing the oil pretty much right away after the initial start, and you also want to lubricate where your cam journals are going to be rotating very, very important And you get the point, i'm going to use a bunch of this and that way we are fully protected on our initial start, which i'm really excited for okay. So now we're going to tighten this camshaft down and we have to follow a specific sequence. You guys may have seen this in the last engine video, but this is very, very crucial, so the caps are lubricated on the top sides and the bottom, and now we just have to work these caps down little by little and be patient with this part. Don't rush it all right, so it's a little nerve racking doing this, but once you get them started, it's all downhill from there.

So this is going to take you a while and then we're just going to torque these to 14 newton meters. These are reusable bolts. So they're not torqued to yield we're not going to be stretching these all right. So sometimes it's easier just to throw on a sprocket, so you can kind of sort of turn it a little bit with one of these bolts and we have our little cam adjustment tool perfectly flat down on the mating surface, where the valve cover goes and now We're going to do our final torque, 14 newton meters.

I add a little bit because of our extension and i did put a tiny little bit of loctite on these cam retaining bolts. It doesn't call for that, but i don't think a little bit hurts. I don't want to add any more torque, but i always just kind of gently go around just to make sure i hit every single bolt. This is very important.

You don't want to miss one and i think we're going to be okay and 13 14. Our cam is installed all right all right. I don't know why i was taking that camera tanner off. We definitely still need this so right now, i'm going to install the screws to positively mount this to make sure our cam is locked in perfectly so that we can set the timing.

Last up, we have the last two timing chain guide pins. I like to take notes and write stuff on things that i know i'm gon na forget about later. So it's hard to tell, but this says bottom i don't remember exactly why this is the bottom one or if it makes a difference, but i wrote bottom on there, so we're not going to waste any time. This is going on the bottom.

All right. Our bottom pin is going through just like that, and these are threaded, so you can remove them. There's a special mercedes-benz tool to remove them as well, and i made my own and it's just a bolt with a nut and a couple of washers we're going to use this to gently tap it in okay, that's nice and bottomed out, and we didn't destroy our Threads, which is always a bonus, then we just have to do the same with this guy, which is in a very tight spot with this oil filter housing right here, but with our little extension bolt. We should be good.

I like to move the guide back and forth every once in a while, while i'm doing this just to make sure it's not binding. Okay, we need a punch here. Almost there we're good, that's it guide is still moving freely and we can unscrew this and we are good to go. New guides are fully installed and we're ready for the timing chain.

Gears next up is the most important part of the job, and that is the timing, so we're going to be installing the camshaft gears, and these can only go on one way as there's a little dowel that fits in right there. So you can't mess this up. So what i like to do start on this side pull up the chain, so there's no slack make sure it's lined up with the guide properly and we're going to kind of get that out of the way and just put this gear right on the cam. Like so so, that's there that's the only place it can be now.

We know we have no slack and we're just going to go ahead and wrap this around. So at this point this gear is set we'll, go ahead and put one of the three cam sprocket bolts in and we'll torque these later, but i just want to hold that in okay. So that's good! Next up we have the passenger side cam sprocket, and this is going to be much of the same except we're going to kind of eyeball this and then wrap the chain around the sprocket before it's actually pressed up against the cam shaft. And that's because it's going to be hard to roll the chain over and okay, i think i got that on the first now, hang on a second, so if you don't think you've got it, you can just simply take the chain go one tooth over there.

We go. Oh that's too much, let's go back there. We go all right. I think i actually had it on the first.

Try make sure that the guide is lined up nicely with the chain and then the reason i didn't completely torque. This other side is sometimes. This is a little bit of a dance. You got ta move that side a little bit give it some slack to get this to line up, and i think we are actually off a tooth.

It's not working out. It's no big deal. You'll know guys: you'll know you really can't mess this up. Okay, there we go see how it just slid right over now.

We know that's perfect. This guy has come off a little bit. No biggie do a little song and dance on and on okay. So both of our sprockets are ah, they say, they're both pressed up against the cam.

This one popped off, oh okay, hold on a second, let's get some, let's get a bolt in here. We already got one in the other side and then just make sure that the chain is right in the middle of the guides: okay, triple check everything people - this is very, very important, and this is normal to have a ton of slack on this side because we Haven't put the tensioner in just yet everything looks good, all right cool, let's torque uh these bolts here and we are already holding the camshaft. So that's good and i think we got to torque these quite a bit. Okay, so yeah! Not only do these need to be torqued down to 20 newton meters, but it calls for a 90 degree angle torque, which means we have to replace these bolts, and i already bought the bolts at the dealer and it looks like they changed up the design.

A little well mostly just the head of the bolt so i'll, take a couple of these old ones out and then we'll install the new ones. Don't want this gear coming off. After all of that, work, really wasn't that much work pretty easy to time. These things, i'm not gon na lie.

If you have these cam holding tools, i mean that's pretty much. All you need set this at 30, set the tools and make sure you've taken up all the slack, especially on the first go-round, on whichever one you start off with first and you're good to go. This doesn't have variable valve timing, so no craziness there either. Okay, whoa, that was a close one.

If that fell down there, that would not have been a good day. Be careful, be careful, you don't drop anything in your engine that you've just completely resealed, and since we have the cam holding tool already on there, we can go ahead and torque these. So we're going to do 20 newton meters first and then we're going to hit it with a 90 degree angle which i'll do with this guy this time and in the work instructions, it doesn't technically say to replace these bolts. But if it's a stretch bolt i like to replace them anyway, because they're really only meant to be used once once, you stretch them they're already stretched so maybe somewhere in the notes.

That said to replace these, i couldn't find it, but we're going to do it anyway, very, very cheap insurance on something that is super important. Don't want this gear coming off all right, we're set up to 90 degrees on the tool. This is really nice there we go. You can kind of eyeball.

This too, like we know 90, is going to be straight up right there yep. So this will be like that right on last one all right, we're good to go timing. Gears are properly torqued. Next up we're installing a brand new timing chain, tensioner and there's nothing wrong with the old one, but just kind of for good measure, and this just has one crush washer here to seal it and this one as well we're not going to mess with that.

We're just simply going to thread this guy in, and it's going to push on this guide right here and give it the proper tension automatically. So you can see here you can see this guy since it's spring loaded. This will move a little bit in and out when the engine's running, but it's gon na take up any and all slack that may be in the chain which you guys watched a few videos ago. You know this timing chain didn't stretch at all, but this doesn't require any adjustment.

You just set it and forget it. Okay. So at this point i'm going to take the cam retaining tools off and we're going to turn this engine over by hand. Now i've poured oil all over the cam shafts.

Everything is pre-lubricated and also i lubricated the cylinders last video as well, so we can spin this by hand a few times. It's not going to hurt anything, and you always want to do that. After setting the timing. Go really slow if you feel any resistance like a valve hitting a piston, stop you've messed something up.

So i'm just going to go really really gentle i'm going to watch the timing chain on the guides as well. Let's make sure everything is lined up. Everything looks good so far and it feels good. We don't have any spark plugs in there, so it should be pretty easy to turn around.

You can watch some of the valves go up and down in here as well, and i can already tell this feels really. Nice and then what we'll do? I think we've already gone around once we're gon na go right back to 30 on the crank which is right there, and now our cam tools should go right back without any fuss at all. They should just line up perfectly there. We go that's one and we pretty much know the other one's going to go to there's our other one right on perfect.

So this is also a good indication that there is no slack in the chain. It hasn't stretched at all we're at 30. There, our cam tools fit the timing chain is perfect. Nothing's slapping around, we have the proper tension.

We're good timing's done. V12 timing is completely done at this point. Now we can start sealing her up, so we have to get these two front covers on and then the valve covers and then all the little stuff around it so we're definitely getting somewhere. This is awesome.

This is starting to feel good right now. It's been like four months since i started this whole thing. I'm dying to drive this car and to just get everything get out get out of the garage, so i can clean it's so bad in here. So, along with replacing the guides, we're going to replace this guy as well, this is going to ride on the cam shaft and there's a seal, so i got to push it on all the way there we go requires a snap ring as well, so that ring Is on there we're good to go there next up, we have the left side cam cover, but there is a seal deep inside of there that we have to replace before we rtv glue the back side of this and bolt her up all right.

So if you have an old cutting board that usually comes in handy, this is a shop tool now, so we're going to go ahead and just whack this from the inside and always pay attention to how deep the seal sits in case it doesn't simply bottom out There we go there's our old one. Okay, so here is our new seal. Just gon na place it in here and then i have a seal driver with the proper cup i'll leave a kit linked down below. I have a really nice one that has pretty much everything covered, i'm just going to be gentle with it check periodically that you're not going too far.

In this case, we can just push this thing all the way out, one more love tap for the kids. Okay, three more and we are perfect all right, we're doing a little mercedes-benz, rtv sealant should be good right there. Okay, now we're ready to slap this guy on there's a couple of dowel pins to guide us, which is always nice, try not to get glue all over the place or rtv all over the place like i'm about to do. There's that there's that perfect all right! Our seal is good right.

There we have our screws and, as you can imagine, we're gon na put these screws right in here. There's five on this side: seven, on the other i've cleaned them. They were all put away in a nice plastic baggie. So we weren't wondering later on, because god knows i've forgotten, so so many things during the course of the last four months, but not this not this part all right.

Let me tighten these so nice to see the rtv just kind of squish out so satisfying this thing is never gon na leak. You can just do these good and tight to be honest with you, but we're gon na torque them. Why not? It takes two seconds and now we know they're, good. Okay, i'm allowed to do at least a couple of dumb things during the course of a big engine project, not sure if any of you guys had noticed this, but i put sealant on the inside of this part of the cover that doesn't get sealed against anything.

The valve cover seals right against this top part, so i already wiped it away. No harm, no foul, it hadn't dried. Yet so i just wiped it away really easily, but uh yeah. That was dumb.

That was dumb. You don't need sealant right behind this. Okay. Next up, we are replacing this nice shiny water pump with this nice shiny water pump from mercedes that actually spins see that's what you want.

This is what you don't want, and it wasn't always this way. I think we may have destroyed this pump. It looked to be the original. It wasn't that good to begin with, but i blasted it in a media blaster and i don't think it survived.

I think some of the stuff got past the seals, so we're going to get rid of it. It doesn't work. First, we got to pop off this crank pulley, so we do have a new bolt, i'm using the old bolt every time. I put this on and off all right, and i had just installed this when we set the sealant for the front timing cover because it does share some of the bolts.

So there's not even a gasket in here we're just going to swap this right out. It's just bolts and then the new one will pretty much look the same. Okay, goodbye all right, i'm lubricating! This water pump seal. I've done this a few times with some of the other seals as well, using uh, an old jar of mercedes-benz uh.

We use this for sunroof, it's sunroof grease, but uh can pretty much be used on on rubber seals as well, and it helps hold this thing in place, so it doesn't fall out before we put the water pump on all right. We got our new seal. Stay stay, stay, stay i'll, just put this guy right. There perfect a couple: starter bolts, well, not starter bolts, but you know what i mean: bolts that are gon na start us off that are gon na hold the water pump, and since we have the old one here, we're gon na use it as a nice little Map they're like three different length, bolts for this water pump, so instead of playing around, i just leave them all in there.

Okay, last one cool all right: new water pump is on double check all these, so we don't have any leaks and let's get this guy on next up. We have this. That's gon na go right about there and it has two seals on the inside that i've already replaced this guy and this guy right here and we just need a little bit of black sealant and we're going on all right here. We go all right, perfect.

All right, we'll install some das bolts, all right, i'm double checking the torque on this guy and guys it is very, very hot. In this garage it's got to be well over 100 degrees. In between clips. I do have a fan and some water, so i'm not going to pass out, but now that that is torqued we are ready for our valve covers and then a mess of hoses vacuum lines and wires, not gon na be fun all right.

It's a new day and we're installing new valve cover gaskets, and this is actually the second time this has gotten valve cover gaskets. In probably the last. I don't know fifteen hundred two thousand miles they were leaking on hoovey, so the wizard replaced these already, not knowing that i'd be taking apart this engine completely. So i could probably get away with reusing the old ones, but i'm not gon na mess around.

I don't need any issues, and so mercedes is selling two sets of valve cover gaskets on this car. We're making them tons of money and i've made probably about five - runs to the dealer for miscellaneous o-rings and washers and stuff that i run into as i go along. So i have to drive downtown to get these parts i'll actually be going there this morning as well, because i forgot the gaskets for the top lines going to the turbo so anyway, this is pretty much done, let's seal it up! Well, hang on before we install the valve cover, i have to use the 100 year old oil can to lubricate this engine, so i already kind of pre-lubricated it. I dumped a bunch of oil all over everything, but this is a tradition here at legit street cars and we have an engine apart.

I found this thing buried in my backyard and i'm gon na assume it's 100 years old. I kind of made that part up but lubricating everything we have a bunch of oil already on the chain and going down the guides. So at initial startup we are well protected and it's just more or less just kind of fun to do this. That's all goodbye! Valptrain, that's it probably the easiest part of this job place it on zip, some bolts in we got some cam sensors to install without the intake.

You can look all the way around and make sure that the gasket isn't pinched anywhere, so we're good there, and here is the driver's side nice. This looks so good. So a lot of the aluminum parts on the engine like the valve, covers in the front cover. I had blasted over at fluid motor union in a media blaster, so this isn't painted or anything.

This is their natural finish, and it looks so good. One thing i want to point out is that pictures are worth a thousand words or a million words in the case of a v12 mercedes. So i took a ton of pictures, otherwise i would have forgotten where things go like this little brackets that attach to the valve cover. So eventually i would have figured it out, but i just took a bunch of pictures now i can look back.

I know which one goes on which side after a few months of disassembly you're, going to forget this kind of stuff. So now i'm not messing around and our brackets are where they should be so uh all right, i'm going to zip bolts in you guys could probably imagine what that looks like torquing them all down um and let's get to whatever's. After that. I don't really remember right now and with the valve covers installed it's time for the air pump.

Switchover valve, i believe, is what this is technically called and it's got an o-ring on the inside too. These do fail, so i am replacing it very easy to do. Lots of plastic stuff we're placing because it's just a matter of time. It's inevitable.

It's gon na go bad. We don't want that. Okay, i think that's how that goes. Looks pretty good to me.

Little zip, zip and a little torque torque good, all right. So i just put the hose on there, and this should slip right on it's always nice, getting these bigger chunks out of the way, because it just makes the engine look so much more complete and there's that there's only two bolts that hold this guy, on which I thought was kind of weird, but that's just how it is little zippity-doo and you know, what's coming up next good old torque, probably just go good and tight on these, but uh anything you can get to easily just torque it, and in this case, when you're Removing you know hundreds of fasteners, it reminds you that you've tightened it so we're good to go here all right next well before things get too buried. We're gon na install these. So these are surge valves.

These guys are made in the united states by weiztech engineering, they're, very nice parts and what they do is they make the turboy sound when you let off the gas. So this is a blow-off valve basically, and it is releasing the excess boost pressure that the engine isn't going to ingest and i'll make sure. Once we get this thing running, to compare my to the real thing to see how accurate i am all we need to do is remove these three 10 millimeters all right and there we go, and i've never personally seen these fail. But i have heard that these diaphragms can rip these look to be in good shape.

All right, then, we just mount this guy up, like so the orientation shouldn't matter at all, and i have put a little tiny bit of loctite on these bolts because it looks like that's what mercedes did many many years ago, all right, let's tighten her up. Well, i got ta say sound or no sound. They look really nice, okay. So for some reason i have a brand new one of these guys.

This is a coolant pipe at the back of the head here and when i went to mercedes, i ordered like a thousand bucks worth of miscellaneous seals and gaskets, and i guess this is one of them. This probably was a mistake and i can return it so anyway, let's pop this off, it should just be a little seal like this on the inside and then i could probably save some money by returning this undoubtedly really expensive coolant pipe. There we go yeah, it's just a seal, that's all kind of pancaked out. So let's clean this up, we'll just reuse! This i'm sure this was probably like 30 bucks or something i can get back so right back in the bag.

You go coolant pipe. I'm on a budget here, people and there you go brand new seal old part - no need to waste any money on this guy good as new. Sometimes it's good to throw yourself a little softball, so go ahead and screw on the oil filter, and this just makes me feel a little bit better. It looks like we did a lot, even though that was super simple and it's just because i'm getting mentally prepared for a whole mess of vacuum, hoses and wiring, harnesses and stuff like that before we get the intake manifold on stuff that i don't have any real Recollection of where any of it goes because it's been so long.

If i remember correctly, we have the turbo oil and coolant lines to install next, and these went in a specific order, and i believe i am to slide this one in the back of the head. First, like that, okay - and then one of these goes before the other - i don't really remember which one i think we're gon na find out, though. Okay hang on hang on. This is confusing this one come back out.

This guy's got ta be put in here. First, i think for all of this to fit properly then, and then this one goes on. No hang on hang on. Hang on.

We got ta, do the other side. First, that's it yeah, that's the ticket! This guy goes in first, it's the fatter of the two. Then this one - i don't know i don't know, let me get this done i'll show you the final result: they go, they go somehow all right. I figured it out, but it wasn't without struggle.

I totally forgot that these shields go on first, so i had to snake them in there as kind of a pain in the butt, but i did it without having to loosen up these lines. I have to unbolt that right there, because this gets held in uh by that bolt, and this is a vacuum line, there's another one in here. I have to secure uh and then yeah, it's all kind of sort of starting to come back to me. This goes to here, which is broken.

I have a new one. I got to replace that, and these two just come out of here, so i think we're pretty safe to just go ahead and put the intake manifold on a lot of the vacuum. Lines are going to make a lot more sense, once that's on to kind of remember where they went, but i did take a lot of pictures and something i totally goofed on was i had written r on this shield and l on the other one. This is the left side.

That is the right, so it took me like 20 minutes to figure out. I had done that uh just a big waste of time. I couldn't figure out why these wouldn't fit on their respective sides and - and that was why so i labeled a few things. This is left.

That's right. I mean it's left, but it's correct and let's see we have this guy here i know i made a white mark somewhere on the harness to tell me that it plugs in right there. So lots of little notes from four months ago, when i took this all apart to attempt to make this go back together quicker and then we have this mess of stuff right here i got to figure out, but a little table update for you guys it's getting Bare we're getting there. This is looking much much better once the intake's out of the way that's the bad abc pump, so that can go and uh.

You know what let's do some pulleys they're all cleaned up and ready to go on the engine. Another softball all right: let's do this in real time. I think i can knock this out in about a minute putting pretty much most of the front pulleys on the front like there's a rear, so we'll start off with the tensioner. This is brand new and i let the guys from jr garage have the original off this engine because they had an s600 that was in wisconsin right by me, broken down and we needed to get them going.

So so that's that i labeled this one. L for left, i think it goes right here once i get that off come on come on. Where am i doing on my timer? There's that there is this one come on people? Ah, i don't know why i'm giving myself one minute to do this. Taking my time on everything else, that's for sure, and this guy goes here.

Ah where's, my thing: oh, okay, okay, have i blown past a minute, yet kind of feels like i did. That's that stop getting stuck and bonus bonus round if i could find them? Oh, no, i'm totally totally going past a minute. I got ta lock. Take these we're gon na.

Do the uh the water pump pulley just really make this look. Complete here come on come on, come on! There's that all right! You know what two minutes: how about two minutes go? Go, go, go go! This is dumb completely unnecessary. Ah, okay, some of these have way more loctite than the others. Okay pause that timer.

I got ta get a tool. I forgot my t30. Oh wait! No! It's right here, don't pause. The time bam.

All right. That's torqued! Okay, trust me! It's good! These will torque get out. Okay, how'd! I do how'd. I do on time.

Was that two minutes that had to have been like two minutes right, not bad, not bad! Look at that that looks complete, we're rocking and rolling um. Okay, i think next up we're gon na. Do the ac compressor, which means i got ta. I got ta lift the engine up with the car and a chain yeah, it's pretty normal i'll show you! Okay, hang on before we put a big ac compressor right here.

We need to reinstall these oil cooler lines, otherwise we're never going to be able to get to them. I'm sure it calls for the removal of the ac compressor to replace these seals. So we have brand new seals, of course, at the end here, these are lubricated. We want to make sure these go in nicely because we definitely do not want to have to take the ac compressor off if these leak.

I don't want to do anything honestly. I just want this to seal and be perfect so anyway, let me uh finagle these bolts in here, and then we could finagle the ac compressor in here. Somehow it looks a lot more difficult now, fire in the hole all right, one, more okay, it should be good, and i know this looks weird unless you guys saw the disassembly video, and that is because there is one bolt right here at the bottom of the Ac compressor that you can't tighten or loosen without lifting the engine up. So if you're doing this in the car you're going to have to either lower the subframe or jack the engine up somehow some way.

So we have a lift and a car and a bar. So this is an engine support that you would normally use just like this to support the engine if it was still in the car and you needed to drop the subframe. But in our case we've had to get a little creative. So we have a chain attached to that bar, going right to the front timing cover and just lifting the engine up just a little bit - and this is the bolt in question.

So without the engine jacked up, the head of the bolt is somewhere in this area and you just physically cannot get a tool on it. So now we will be able to tighten up this ac compressor, but not before we installed this hose. So this was a hose that had a small leak uh it had a little nick right in the middle and mercedes decided not to make this anymore. This is an abc hydraulic hose, so i had to have this custom made at a local hydraulic shop and uh cost me 82., so not too bad and they were able, obviously to reuse the proper ends off of the old hose, so they connect.

One of them goes right over yonder and the other one eventually will go to the new abc pump, which is sitting right there in a bag, and here it is with the ac compressor fully installed. Our oil cooler lines are installed uh. We have some of the abc lines pretty much most of the abc lines installed as well. These are trans cooler lines that will eventually hook up to the car.

We have to hook up that connection right there and then the alternator goes on, but before the alternator goes on, we have to snake this harness through this area. So we have an oil level sensor, a knock sensor right there and it's pretty much impossible to get to these connections with the alternator there and looking back at the old footage. What makes the most sense to do now is actually to install the intake manifold, and then we can kind of just put this entire harness right over it and start fishing it into places and then do the alternator and then do the abc, pump and kind of Close it all up and wrap it up so anyway. Another big chunk is coming off the table right now and it's a pretty looking chunk, and that would be the intake manifold once we laid this intake manifold on and then put the harness over it stuff is about to get real we're going to empty out that Table really really fast everything's going to go right together.

Uh really excited for this part guys. This thing is going to be done, but before we do that, we just want to take a look inside of the intake runners and we're going to blow them out as well. Just like that make sure everything is super, clean, all right, cool, so i'll wipe this down. We will get the gaskets on and it's intake time brand new mercedes intake manifold gaskets, going on my last box with gaskets that need to lay flat um.

Let's see, how do these go all right, gaskets are in place. They have little dowels, luckily to sort of hold them, and what is this stay? There's my light. What is that? What is that? Are you kidding me what is going on jeez? Oh, no! No! No! No, no, no you've got to be kidding me no um, okay, so something has happened. I have found something that i wish i found at the very beginning of this video, which is like a week ago, um yeah i've been filming this a little bit each day.

Um there's something wrong with one of the cylinder heads. Let me just show you if you guys remember these cylinder heads were ported and polished, and when i got them i mean they look brand new. They were perfect, so i just kind of blew them off with air. Everything was good, everything was cleaned, they were 3d scanned and checked, and everything was great.

These took about three months to get back to me. This is why the project has taken so long and uh yeah, so i got the gaskets on and i'm trying to feel anything but horrible right now. So i'm feeling grateful that i found this um uh yeah right here. Do you guys see this? This little pin hole right there, so right right there.

My pick is sticking inside of that is insane. There is a pinhole um, so this port, this intake port was uh, was ported and it's possible. They went too deep, although i don't think so. Just kind of looking at this there we go um, i think something fell.

I think something fell on this because if it had gone too deep uh you know it looks just kind of jagged. I guess i don't think the tool went too deep, otherwise um. I would imagine this would be bigger. I don't know, i don't know guys, but there's a hole right here and there is a coolant jacket underneath there you can see the freeze plugs along there and then this is the line right here for the coolant, so coolant runs there and coolant getting sucked into Cylinder is not good um, so this is a big bummer.

Obviously the cylinder head is on a bunch of stuff is on many. Many hours has gone into putting this back together and had i noticed this uh before i would have just sent the head back, um, which you know still would have taken a long time to get done, but uh okay. Here we are okay, so i just got off the phone with uh victory road performance who had these heads ported, and they spoke to the actual guys that did this job and they said it didn't leave that way. Um they had done the 3d scan.

They don't believe it was done during the porting job and uh. You know at this point in time. I don't. I don't really know what to believe.

I mean i'd like to believe that uh i'd like to believe this happened. Maybe during shipping or something like that, i mean really. They just were sitting in my garage in a box and then i i just put them on so you know i didn't drop it or do anything crazy, um yeah. So at this point um a couple of options, this could be welded.

I think, and i went around and i kind of like tapped around with a punch and a hammer. Let me just show you what i did: okay, so with a little punch and a little hammer, i'm not going too crazy here, just kind of going around and just tapping in the general vicinity that we had these issues. Now, if you were to hammer it you would you would go through even on a brand new head. It's not, you know super thick, but i mean it's not it's not doing anything and then, most importantly, if we go right around where we have the issue, i mean it's solid, we're not going right through just just really right up to the edge we're good.

Oh man, so i don't know, i don't think it was the pork job. I think something hit it there. Somehow so the shop did say they would fix this for free, send the head back and they'll take care of it. No problem they'll weld it up, grind it back down.

Everything will be perfect um. At the same time, i think this can be done on just the way it is. I think we can just leave the head the way it is. We have plenty of room.

We haven't put it in the car yet so i think a really skilled, tig welder could just weld that little spot we'll sand. It down obviously protect anything from going inside of the engine, and i think that would just be fine um. That is an actual repair. When people are porting heads uh, you know sometimes they get welded in spots and ground down for different airflow.

You know characteristics and stuff like that. So uh, tig, welding inside of a cylinder head is normal. It's something that can be done um. So i really don't want to take this all apart if it can be done in-house.

So i think i'm going to try and find uh a welder like a mobile welder to come out here, see what they think get their honest opinion and um and go from there. So definitely not the way. I wanted to end this video um. The only thing i can say i always try to look at the bright side.

If i didn't notice um this issue and we would have started it up with coolant everything in there. Obviously, we probably would have hydrolocked that cylinder um, especially the you know. It will be burning coolant, then, if we shut it off and the cooling system was still pressurized, it would just fill that cylinder uh with coolant and that would be horrible and then we'd be looking for probably a new motor. So this is horrible, like i'm not happy, but at the end of the day it's not catastrophic yet so obviously i will keep you guys posted this is gon na take some more time, but you guys have been patient already with this project um.

So i just got ta figure this out, follow me on instagram and on facebook at legit streetcars. If you guys want a quicker update, um and in the meantime, uh yeah, i don't know guys, i'm gon na end the video there uh. I hope you like this video, regardless we didn't get everything finished like i wanted to. So if you did thumbs up share the video subscribe if you're new uh, most importantly, i hope you guys have a way way better day than i'm having right now and i'll catch.

All of you in the next video you.