Hey guys welcome back to legit street cars in today's video we are gon na make this engine grow. It's gon na get just bigger and bigger and bigger with the more parts that we install like this guy right here and we are gon na replace the death seal, the oil seal that caused all of this madness. I got a brand new one from mercedes and maybe we'll even write something on the inside of this just in case one day, someone has to replace this again. It'll just be like a little message um, so we got a ton to do.

I actually have an apprentice for today to help me, so that means i'm going to get this whole job done even quicker and before we start, if you guys haven't already subscribed to the channel, there's a button down there. It takes. You know one second, but i was looking at analytics and like something like 60 or 70 percent of the people that constantly watch my videos aren't even subscribed, so we could have a much bigger channel. So if you could do me, a favor hit the subscribe button and with that, let's get to work all right.

So before we install das zlinda heads, we need to reinstall this little valley plate. So this is basically an oil distribution center essentially, and what we have here is this side has engine oil and this side has coolant, and there is a gasket right here that we're going to install and that's going to separate the two. Now, the issue and the reason i had to disassemble everything is because of this o-ring, so this o-ring got very brittle. It failed and that caused the oil to seep out, and this was kind of a secondary failure.

This allowed the oil to seep out too, but if it wasn't for this guy completely coming apart, i don't think we would have had this issue so we're going to replace both, but first we have to clean up this so to make life easier, i'm just using The gasket remover spray from the last video and we're spraying it here and it's gon na eat up all of this old gasket material. So we can scrape it away much easier. This stuff is actually baked on here, real nice all right. So then, we're using the old wire brush to get this gunk out of here.

Okay, so right now we're installing the new seal on this valley plate and i did lightly lubricate it. We have our new o-ring. Do not want to forget that good job apprentice all right. Let's look over this apprentice's work.

It's looking pretty good yep we're ready to go. It looks like all right. What do you think good? That's good! Yes, okay! So with the valley plate installed it's time for the horribly designed vacuum canister, so this is in the worst place ever because you have to remove the heads to replace it properly. I think most people would just break the ears off and just glue it in here.

If it meant not having to remove the heads, so many of you had mentioned that i should relocate this. It's a great idea, but here's what i'm thinking, i'm just gon na, go ahead and replace it with a brand new one. It didn't fail after so many years. I don't think it's going to and if it does fail, it's just two little vacuum lines that go here and then they come out of the back of the engine.

You can see them. So if this were to fail, i would snip those lines and then relocate a vacuum, canister somewhere else later, so no real reason to reinvent the wheel. At this point, i don't think we're going to have an issue at all, and i had never actually heard of these things failing, but it is dumb that they locate it underneath the cylinder heads same as this whole conglomeration here, not smart, mercedes, you're, really really screwing Us second-hand or fifth-hand owners of these v12 cars because we're the ones that don't have a lot of money and we're buying them for cheap and now they're breaking so come on now, all right. Let's tighten this guy up it's on a very gentle setting, but i don't want you to hammer down too much.

Okay, keep on going good, good, good cool! All right! You got the gun, all yourself right, there's perfect good job! Next! Is that double roller timing chain? Getting in your way, do those timing chains stretch not really not in this engine, all right, i've already torqued everything i like to go over stuff a couple times, especially when you're working on this engine. There are so many things you can forget. There are like millions of bolts lots of little things, so i just mentally go over things multiple times like triple check, because you don't want to be up at night. Thinking wait a minute did i did i not torque that, or did i forget to put that in that is that is a bad feeling guys so anyway.

Luckily i get these videos to uh remind me of what i've done. I was gon na write something on the top of this plate, which we're going to do because on the bottom is coolant in oil, which probably wouldn't mix too well with sharpie fluid. But before we do that before the heads go on, i just want to do a final cleaning of the head gasket mating surface and we have to clean out the head bolt holes. So, let's get to slicing and dicing up some head bolts to make our own tap so the best tool for this job is actually a small dremel.

I can't seem to find mine anywhere, probably lent it to someone, but a cutoff wheel will work as well. Um. Just be kind of steady where safety glasses be safe and all we're doing is cutting a little line on this side and one on the other when you're done you're gon na have something that looks like this and you'll have another cut on this side as well. Spray, this off with some brake cleaner and we are just simply threading the old bolt holes back in and if you feel any resistance right off the bat, if you think you've messed up the threads, just stop and start over it'll.

Take you two seconds to make a new one, and you got plenty of spare old head bolts that you're gon na throw out anyway and uh. I'm no good at cutting these lines, all right, they're, not straight at all, but i've realized throughout the years. It doesn't matter so don't worry about it and what's nice, is these mercedes head bolts? They don't really have anything on them. I've seen some head bolts like on gms that have what looks to be loctite, and you end up pulling a lot of that out, which is good.

You want to clean that, but with these they're pretty nice to begin with, so we could probably get away with just simply blowing these out with brake, clean and shop air. But why not? This is going to add another. I don't know 20 minutes to our project kind of hard to tell, but there's really nothing in here. So if you have a lot of gunk it'll start to fill up in this channel and then just make sure to clean it after every time.

So sorry, this thing isn't focusing focus or not all right. So anyway, i'm going to go around clean. All of these up we'll do a final pass and then we have to assemble the heads with the turbos, but before we do that, i have to show you the best men's full body shaver on the market. This is the brand spanking new lawnmower 4.0 from manscaped and they really stepped it up with this generation.

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Of course, this guy is fully waterproof, so you can take it wherever you want, and the best part is you guys, can get 20 off, plus free international shipping by going to manscape.com legit or by clicking on my link in the video description box and using coupon Code cars20, so that's 20 off plus free international shipping. You guys are gon na love it. Now, let's get back to some v12 all right, so i've cleaned out all of the holes by hand and when you're done, you should be able to do this like butter. Smooth, no hesitation, no resistance.

This is exactly what you want, because if there's resistance going in, if there's dirt and crud in there, it's going to affect your torque values. So that is very important that all of these are super clean. I'm going to go ahead and blow these out again and just make sure they're absolutely perfect, all right guys. I wanted to show you something that could have just been a total nightmare.

Had i not checked it so this is our new turbo. This is our old turbo. I've already fixed this issue, but let me show you what was going on here, so i'm just going to apply some pressure here to the wastegate actuator and check out this flap. Now it looks like it's closing, but there's actually a really big gap in here, and this thing it just doesn't feel right at all.

Something is binding. It should close all the way like just like that see how solid that is, it just snaps right back yeah. So what happened was this rod right here or actually this one? This is the bad one. It's just slightly tweaked, so this must have happened in shipping or something like that.

It's slightly tweaked, so i'd removed this entire assembly and this bushing is good in here and on both of them and the flap is good. So i just swapped over the wastegate, and now it works perfectly. So you always want to check your wastegate actuation. If you can see the flapper, especially it's good, to get some eyes on there and make sure that it's functioning properly, even if you've sent out your turbos to get rebuilt, they may have missed a step or the rod or something might have been damaged in shipping.

So had we not caught this, i highly doubt we can get to any of this in the car we may have needed to drop the engine again. We would have had some boosting issues with this flapper stain open. It would continue to bleed exhaust uh, so not good with that. It's time to mount this onto this, so i'm gon na go ahead and install some of these studs and when you're installing exhaust studs you're just going to put them in by hand.

That's it that one's in so you're going to do all the torquing with the nut, and even if these have like a little allen head at the top of them, which these don't you don't have to tighten those like crazy, just get them to bottom out. Make sure the threads are clean and you're golden all right. So next up i have a brand new, really expensive, exhaust manifold gasket from mercedes. So we will slide that over and then simply slide the turbo over, just like that and getting to these nuts with uh.

This thing on the car is just horrible, it's just horrible! That's why i took the entire assembly off as one and that's how we're going back together. I couldn't even imagine getting any kind of proper torque on any of these with it in the car. There's just not enough room, i'm replacing every single seal and gasket and crush washer for the turbo, oiling and cooling system, and let me just show you something that kind of goes bad on these and it requires you to drop the engine. At least that's what i remember just this little o-ring right here, so this is eventually gon na go over here and connect to the turbo, and you can see how smushed this o-ring is, and we got a nice new one right here.

That's going to go on so we're going to go from this to this sweet on the other end of the coolant pipe is a banjo bolt. So definitely some new seals for that, as well straight from mercedes i'll, give this a little torque get a little bit of lube on this seal here, new gasket for the oil drain, and we are golden okay. So next up we have to replace some of the vacuum tubing and vacuum hoses that go to the vacuum canister and that's because they get brittle over time. As you can see, i broke off one of the plastic vacuum tubes there and i got this straight from mercedes-benz, so it is the exact same size.

I don't want to play around with any of this at all, because it's a total nightmare to get to that's kind of like the theme of this project is like. Do it now, because it's going to suck to do later, anyway, we're going to replace some of this stuff right now before we get the cylinder head on so unfortunately, a lot of these little tiny rubber pieces are not available anymore from mercedes. So you got to kind of take this case by case this is in excellent condition. There's no cracks nothing! So i'm not going to worry about it.

If there was, i try to rig something up, but this tapers down this hose is larger here and it goes down from there. So i'm never gon na find anything like this, and so we're gon na go ahead and reuse. That piece, and in my experience it's the hard plastic that actually fails on these cars. It cracks.

So if you move it at all, it'll just snap right off, so we're replacing all of that - and this is a really nice tool. I use to tighten up these clamps just like that and we'll get some new hose on this end. You can also use side cutters. Sometimes those are better than the actual tool.

This was a little bit of a larger clamp and it wasn't working out too well. All right always double check. Your connections give them a nice tug. You want to know now if they're going to come apart and we're good.

This is absolutely perfect all right and then just be careful not to snap off any plastic fittings like i just did right now on this valve, so that's going to cost me probably 75 more dollars thrown into this project, but that just goes to show you how Brittle these are just snapped right off. This is also a great time to replace our oil dipstick grommet. These things actually do shrivel up and leak and uh, as you can imagine, total nightmare to replace on this car, but two seconds with everything. Taken apart before i put the cylinder heads on, i like to use a little bit of engine assembly lube on the inside cylinder here, because it's been dry for so long and i actually squirt a little bit of oil in there as well.

Just so the rings and everything are properly lubricated upon that initial startup. So that is done. I've also done a final wipe with brake clean and a clean rag on the cylinder head mating surface we've blown out all of the cylinder head bolts. So now it's time to write someone a message, so let's write a message for the next guy, of course put on here like because i know you guys have already liked the video and then we'll do.

L lsc was here, okay and uh. What else? What else? How about this, i think we can fit this in here, sub, scribe, exclamation, all right! If you buy this car, my markings will be here. How about i sign it. I'm gon na sign this thing, just like the guy did when he built the engine uh.

My signature is so bad all right, so we have subscribe. My horrible signature lsc was here like the video all right. We are done. Let's get some cylinder heads on okay, so now we can remove our bungee cord holding the timing chain and this can kind of just lay in there.

It's totally fine. All right. I just got done cleaning the cylinder head mating surface with brake, clean and air. I'm not touching this at all, so that way it just rests right on the head, gasket perfectly clean, so we are ready to lift this gigantic thing onto the engine and make it bigger.

No, but before we uh put the head on it's always a good idea to you know, put a head gasket on there. These are nice, they're, really good at uh ceiling, stuff, there's a different head gasket for each side and it's pretty self-explanatory. One totally does not fit, and one fits perfectly and that's what we have here. Everything is clean.

Let's do this that's much easier to take one of these guys off and put it on, because we have to be so so gentle not to scrape that gasket. Okay, so we're going to want to angle it here so like that, so it goes like straight on and we have doll pins too to help us to guide us there we go. I lay down real nice and easy perfect. That's great! The last thing you want to do when you're putting the head down is, you know, move the head back and forth and scrape out that head gasket.

So it's always good to do kind of like a dry practice run so before we actually put the head gasket on uh me and eugene just kind of figured out a path. He was gon na walk on this side. I was gon na walk on this side and i know it sounds stupid, but that way we knew exactly. You know the angle to put it at and it just plopped right back on and we are good.

We are good. This engine is getting taller. I, like it cool okay with the head on. We have a total of 14 new head bolts per side, we have long ones and we have short ones short ones, go down there, long ones up top and we'll start all of these by hand.

I'm just drawing these in very gently. Okay. So now we start the very specific torque sequence which i've written out there. So i can just follow it as i go along and it's very important.

You follow this torque sequence. So not only is it going to have us torque it to 40 newton meters and then a couple angle torques, but they have to be in order. So, for example, that is number one now we're going to move on to number two all right and we're just going to follow this map. You don't want to just go around and just start torquing heads you can warp aluminum heads if you don't torque it properly and disassemble it properly too.

You are torqued all right angle, torque time. Next up, we have to do a 90 degree angle torque. So this is going to start to stretch our bolt. These are stretch bolts, they're only supposed to be used once so.

This is the tool we need to use for that. So we're going to go ahead and put this right on the bolt and then this is adjustable. You just need this to touch a solid surface and you guys are going to see why. As long as we have that in a solid surface, we can zero.

This out make sure that's tight, and then you don't need a torque wrench for this. You can use any really really big ratchet that you like get a little tension on there and then we'll go to zero. Make sure this is solid and we're going to go ahead and we're stretching the bolt now i'll bring that right to 90.. Okay, there we go so we're actually going to be doing two 90s and the reason you don't just do a 180 is because again it's got to be done in order, so i had already done number one.

This is number two and we'll keep on going. I forgot to show you the other side of this contraption. All it is, is the normal torque socket that i've been using the whole time and it gets attached to the angle torque tool. So that's it! Okay! So now i'm on my last torque sequence here.

So this is going to be the final 90. and anywhere that you can solidly mount this. They give you a little extension, that's adjustable anywhere that stops this little black section from turning is what you want that way. You know you're, definitely zeroed out so right now.

That's up against a random bolt, and this is where it gets a little difficult, not too bad, though, if you have a really really long ratchet, and that is 90. okay, so that first bolt is totally done all right with this head fully bolted in it's time. For our last timing chain guide - and they just have two pins - that hold them in okay - tap these in very gently. Next up we're going to install the camshaft, so we just have to remove the bolts for the cam bridges or retainers, and these were polished out as well.

When i sent the heads out, you want to keep these in order and then before final assembly. Just take a look at all the tops of the valves and the lifters: these are in great shape. We didn't have any ticking noises or anything like that. Most mercedes lifters are pretty stout, especially on these older ones, but they can make a ticking noise if the car sits around for a while.

We didn't have that with these, and i had them check all the spring pressures as well. All those were great, so everything in the valve train looks to be in great condition, so just checking over all the rollers making sure nothing is scuffed up and everything looks perfect. So we are good to go back together, but first, let's get a little engine assembly. Lube, where all the lifters make contact with the top of the valves, since everything has been dry for so long and we're definitely going to be changing the oil right after we get this thing fired up i'll.

Maybe let it idle for a little while quick cruise around the block, but then we are changing the oil i'll probably do a coolant flush as well. It's a good idea! If you have everything taken apart, you never know what kind of stuff gets in there. So we're good to go there and then we'll do a little bit on the rollers. Also, you can use engine oil for this as well, especially if you're going to be putting it back together fairly quickly that way it doesn't leak down.

But this stuff kind of just stays around a little bit longer: okay, all right! So next up we are installing the cam shafts or the one cam shaft right now and when you put this on since all the valves are closed, it's going to be at a weird angle. It's going to feel very unnatural because all of these valves are closed. Right now, so everything is kind of just pushed up at the same angle, and these lobes on the cam are not striking uh the rocker, the roller on the rocker all at the same place. If that makes any sense at all so right now, i'm gon na set up my little cam tool to put this in the position that we loosened everything in okay, so that was about there and it's not going to be perfect.

Everything is just off right now and then we're going to go ahead and again use some assembly lube and return the cap back to its location. Okay, so again we have a tightening sequence, so we're actually going to be drawing in the camshaft while tightening. So this is very, very crucial that everything is lined up properly and that we're not binding on anything, because i mean quite honestly, you can destroy stuff by messing this part up, so we're going to be very, very gentle and we are drawing the cam lobes down Onto the rockers, by tightening these up, so one two, three four, each individual bolt and you just have to watch the entire time you're doing this - that nothing is crooked. So that's good enough for that.

Now, let's go to three. This part of the job is pretty tedious, because you're just tightening them up a little bit at a time. This might take just as long as uh doing three different torque passes on the head bolts. This one actually just has one eventually once this cam is laying down it's just 14 newton meters, and that's it all right.

Finally, at twerking time and it's just gon na be one pass and we're good all right guys. So we have this cam shaft this head. This turbo charger fully torque properly installed on the v12, and next up is the other cylinder head and my goal for this. Video was to get both the heads on the cams and set the timing and show you guys how easy it is to do that on this v12.

That's pretty intimidating, but this is totally my fault. I just went and counted all my head bolts out and i'm missing one of them. So i've had these parts here for at least a month like a month and a half something like that, and i never thought to count the head bolts. So i called the dealer: it's gon na be like three days to get another head bolt and then i realized that one of like the six seals and gaskets for the turbos, just on one side, i'm missing one of those too and i'm missing one of the Banjo bolt washers, so yeah yeah, you got ta count all the parts before you start filming a video that is supposed to go out the same week.

So i'm kind of like filming these videos live. What you guys see is just from the last few days. So i think what we're gon na have to do here is i'm gon na have to obviously order all these parts, and then it took me two videos to remove and disassemble this engine. I planned on three videos to fully assemble the engine, so we're on video.

Two, so i'm still on track with that, but the next one's gon na be a little bit longer. It's gon na be one of my classic. I finished everything in one video, so i hope you guys stay tuned for that. We are literally gon na just everything like oil.

It's just gon na be completely done uh. So anyway, i hope you guys enjoyed this video if you did hit the thumbs up. Button share the video subscribe if you're new and, most importantly, have an awesome day i'll catch all of you in the next video.