Hey guys welcome back to legit street cars and welcome to another cl65 amg video. Now, normally i start off the introduction of my videos with a basic outline of what we're gon na do in the video i like them to be structured, beginning middle and some kind of result. You guys know the deal, i'm kind of done doing that with the cl65. So normally i would say we're going to do a bunch of repairs on the cl65 because it constantly breaks and then we're going to the dyno.

But the truth is at this point in time i don't know what's gon na happen, but that is my goal, but if something breaks on the way there's nothing i can do about it so anyway, uh cross your fingers. Do a little dance. Wish me good luck. Let's get right to work all right, we're gon na start off with something i'm most excited for, and that would be the hood struts.

I've had this car for about a year with bad hood struts. So i've had to do this. Little walk right here to this side and then worry. If this hood is going to decapitate me yeah see it doesn't always lock in and then i got to do.

One of these i got ta hold it up here. Okay, all right and then come on now. This one always gets stuck there we go, then i got ta there we go all right, then i got ta. Do one of these.

I don't fully trust it. It did fall on me once it kind of hurt my head, but anyway, let's do these struts. All right, i got peter holding the hood up, because i just don't trust that little tab and these are really easy to do. I remember we used to charge like a half hour of labor to swap these out at the dealer, and you can see it's just kind of oily and greasy and it's just like a normal shock.

It's just gone bad. It should be way harder to do than this. Well here i'll show you. I can't even compress this by hand, that's how they should be, and they just snap in snap that one on very easy.

Okay, we're done thanks peter this is great hold on. I'm still gon na use the service position, it's obviously easier to work on the car, but now, if that thing fails, the hood will actually stay up. It's a beautiful thing, all right. Let's move on to some more real repairs here, all right.

So if you guys remember in the last cl 65 video, we installed the quad cone intake and then went outside and had a little bit of fun. Now, after coming back from that fun, i discovered some coolant on the ground. I kind of freaked out thinking that maybe it was coming from the engine and then i lucked out and found that it was coming out of the radiator. So there's a little crack at the top of the radiator on the driver's side.

And this is a common point of failure on these cars, so we need a new radiator at the same time, i'm going to replace these hoses because they have these plastic connectors with a seal in there and after you have them on and off so many times. They can start to leak. The hoses are original anyway, so we're gon na do upper and lower radiator hoses and we're gon na be doing some transmission work as well replacing a conductor point. This is also a big point of failure on this car and really any mercedes transmission from this era very good transmissions, but this part would fail all the time this connector would leak so anyway, i'll go over all of this once we drop the valve body, but Of course, i went with fcpuro.com for these parts because of their lifetime parts replacement guarantee because it's a cl65 and honestly, the only way you can really own one of these cars is with a lifetime parts replacement guarantee all right.

So i'd already removed the fan to diagnose the coolant leak. So we're going to start off by removing these tens here and we'll take off these little radiator brackets and it's been a while since i've done one on this model car. But i think we can sneak the radiator out from here instead of having to take off this whole thing, we'll see it might be easier to remove this, and then we can just reach down here and loosen up the drain for the radiator goodbye new coolant. Basically, oh and you got to take your cap off there we go now we have the coolant draining and i'm a little bit bitter about doing this, because this is pretty fresh coolant from the engine rebuild but at the same time we're doing a coolant flush on The fresh engine too, so i guess it's not all bad all right so right now, i'm removing the trans cooler lines from the radiator - and i was just thinking about this, but most of the parts on this car that i've replaced are from fcp euro with the Lifetime parts warranty.

So if this thing keeps breaking i'm going to have the first cl 65, that's under a full mechanical lifetime warranty, it's got to be worth something you go ahead and keep breaking cl. I dare you i'm just kidding. Just please stop just stop. I've removed this line right here and if you're, removing the engine fan definitely take this loose it'll make life a million times easier, and then we just have the other trans cooler line at the bottom.

So we'll take that off too. I will remove this clamp here. Now we can shimmy the hose off these. Just have these metal connectors, you just got to pull down with a little pick tool.

Don't do what i'm doing right now, but if you're replacing your radiator and the hose anyway, you can get violent. Do not do this guys do not do this, you will break stuff there. We go. You just got ta fight with it a little bit longer, but we're replacing both.

So who cares all right? Last up we have this lower radiator hose to remove and i'm trying to show you guys that you don't need a pry bar. You really don't it's really super easy and mercedes totally should not have just used a normal hose and hose clamp. This is better the best or nothing the best, nothing. Ah, i can see here nothing at all.

Ah, okay, i got it with the pry bar. Don't do this at home, just struggle with it for longer it'll be fine like couldn't you've just fallen right there. Why? Well, i was gon na say next up. We have to remove a 10 from right there and one from right there, but they're missing.

So thank you previous mechanic, who took this all apart. I've at least left the bolts in the cup holder. So now we just have this 10 here and this 10 over here all right now, at this point, we've unmarried the radiator from all of the many coolers that the cl65 has. There are a lot of them.

There's a little guy in here this one. Here we have an ac condenser, there's another cooler sandwich in there somewhere, but now we've detached that and we can kind of just move this radiator out a little bit and see if we can sneak it out without having to remove all this. This should be the last piece we need to remove before the radiator comes out, and that is this little bracket that holds on our intercooler water pump, and you can see here it just screws right onto the radiator. Oh and there's another 10 right here that holds these ac lines to the radiator, and that should be it alright guys.

So i have the radiator loose, but unfortunately i have to remove this little spider web of hoses. These are abc and power, steering hoses that go to the coolers and they're getting in the way of me removing the radiator, so they got to go, lost a little bit more fluid, but what's another few gallons of this super ridiculously expensive, pentacent fluid. Why not now, will you come out radiator? No, no! You won't. Okay, guys i'll show you when i get the old one out, but these these are what gets in your way when you're trying to take this thing off along with those little spider web hoses.

I took out now in theory this should come out. It is such a tight, fit people and i've i mean. There's nothing left nothing left around this thing. It's just you got to shimmy it.

It's got to be a special there's like it should be. A cheat code for this shimmy to the right shoot me to the left, shimmy to the right, shoot me to the left and then and then it comes out all right. Okay, there we go that, wasn't the hardest radiator i've ever removed, but it definitely wasn't fun and i need a drink, and my drink of choice for 2022 is a g1 from athletic greens. My stuff is so good and it makes keeping my new year's resolution of being healthier, so much easier.

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When you do you're gon na get a free, one-year supply of immune supporting vitamin d and five free travel packs with your first purchase. So a big thanks to athletic greens for supporting my new healthy lifestyle with ag1 and for continuing to support automotive content creators. Like myself, now with that, let's go support my broken cl65 with a new radiator, all right guys, i'm feeling good. I got some nice blue gloves, let's swap a couple things over to the new radiator.

So don't forget these nuts right here and right here, and you can use the pick just to slide these out just like that, and then they just fit into this groove on the new one. Push that in a little there we go and we'll swap this little hose, it's just easier to get to the other end. This isn't a bad spot on the car and i'll put that in the same orientation make sure it's clocked properly. Just like that, we have these little rubber isolators swap those over too, and then i always take this guy and just save it.

Just in case later on, you break one of these off in a radiator. You got a spare part and not that this was a common failure point on this particular model, but it is kind of nice at 136 000 miles that we're replacing the internal transmission cooler right in here, because if those do fail, it'll mix the transmission fluid and The antifreeze and if any freeze gets into your transmission it'll pretty much destroy it. So that was an issue on some 2003 early 2004 211 cars. But it wasn't really an issue with this, but uh we don't need any more issues, so this this makes me feel good.

All right, we're ready to go in with the new radiator, and you want to be a little bit more gentle reinstalling, the new one. Then you were muscling out the old one. I know it can get frustrating taking a radiator out. You just got to be patient, so you don't damage the fins.

They are aluminum. They are very delicate. After all, you don't want to do this again. Okay, so with this guy, just laying in here i'll get these on.

So these are just little extensions of the air intake tubes that go through the radiator and they just slide in here and kind of snap in kind of hard to see. But that's pretty much about it! It just snaps into place and you're good, all right now we're going to feed in our little spider web of hoses through here like i cannot touch any part of this car without it being somehow related to the abc suspension, and this is that part. These are two of these are abc hoses all right, so you really can't mess this up as far as the length of the hoses. They all kind of line up the way you'd think they would and you can reuse these factory mercedes clamps just get yourself a nice pair of side cutters and you're just going to compress them together.

When you hear the snap you're good okay, so i've attached both brackets on the side of the radiator, the one on the passenger side that holds in the intercooler pump and the other side holds in an ac line. So that's done. We have our top seal on and we can just slide the radiator right into place. All right, then we'll install our little brackets, zip them down and don't go too crazy with these, because these are plastic, you will crack them there we go.

Let's tighten these guys up a little bit by hand all right cool our radiator is installed. Now we just have to reconnect everything around it, replace some hoses and we're moving on to a transmission service kind of an in-depth one, though, got the new lower hose. Almost on, let's see here, this usually goes on a lot easier than it comes off. Usually, oh, look at that like butter like butter, perfect now this one goes right here and we are almost there we're almost at the promised land with this radiator.

So the low radiator hose splits off into this hose here goes to the bottom of the coolant reservoir, and this is all the fun stuff putting it back together. You know where everything goes, because you just removed the old one. It's a beautiful day here in chicago spring, just started: it's 65 degrees out everything's, good everything's good, and i didn't totally just jinx myself. There's no way, there's no way in this car everything's gon na.

Be fine. Don't worry about a thing, because every little thing is gon na be all right all right. Let's get this guy back on, got the new upper hose as well already installed. We got a couple two tree bolts to put back in guys over here a couple two tree before i have it's a chicago thing, all right, we'll reinstall our new upper hose like so there we go, give her a good old.

Titan click click there we go. That's torqued, okay, um! I think yes at this point we can get coolant in here all right, so we're using the mercedes factory coolant, i'm putting it in at full strength right now, but we will be diluting this down to 50 percent. I know i'm gon na need two gallons. So that's why i'm not pre-mixing here's our water all right! It's pretty much full right there, but once we run it, it will cycle a little bit more.

Normally. I would vacuum this down and fill it that way. But my little vacuum connector is broken so uh anyway. At this point, i'm not going to start it because i don't want to hook up the transmission cooler lines and run the old fluid through the new cooler.

Let's uh, let's hit up the transmission, we've got to drop the pan and the valve body and i'll show you guys what i'm going to do in there. Of course, that's the video i'm going to show you everything, fluid doesn't look too bad. I don't have any service records on the transmission fluid ever being done a lot of these weren't done because technically you didn't need to replace the fluid, but the transmission works pretty well for the most part. But i'll talk to you guys about a little issue that it's having and what we're going to do to fix it here after we get the valve body down all right with all the fluid drained, we just have a total of six t-30s to remove actually seven.

If you count this one for the little bracket that you have to remove all right, then we can just simply bring our pan down put a little piece of cardboard on the ground as well, because if you don't have a large drain, pan you're going to get Fluid on the ground and then we'll just pull the filter out next step. We have to remove the electrical connector so you're just going to pull down like this pop it out. Let's see it's pretty dry a lot of times. This is soaked in fluid, and this fluid can actually travel all the way up, the wiring harness to the transmission control unit, and it can short it out and the whole issue is this connector right here that i'm about to take out it's just a seven millimeter.

These are like 10 bucks, but they can cause like a thousand dollars in damage, and i saw these when i worked at mercedes leaking on brand new vehicles, that it was still on the transport truck from germany and just a puddle of red transmission. Fluid underneath them right on the transport truck, so they had a lot of issues. They came out with like four different versions. This is the latest with the black seals.

So that's why we didn't have the leak, so this has been replaced, probably like five times with that we just have to remove a few more t30s from the valve body with all of them removed from the perimeter. There's one right here: do this one last and hold the belt buddy or it will fall out, get both hands in there. It's not heavy, but you don't want this to fall. It will be pretty much ruined you're going to lose some more transmission fluid from the trans also.

So i just like to flip these over and let everything drain for like five minutes all right. So with the valve body on the bench, we can go ahead and remove all the solenoids, and these are the blue, top amg solenoids that come on here. You'll see uh the non-amg cars, i think they have brown tops and you could upgrade your non-amg car with the blue tops, but it's really expensive. I think the solenoids are a couple hundred dollars and uh.

It's not worth it honestly. You probably won't notice too big of a difference and if you do it's on a non-amg car, so unless you're chasing every tenth at the quarter mile i'd probably just save your money. Okay, then there's just some tabs here, so we pull up on this tab here. Flip it around and it just kind of pops up out of place just like that and with the solenoids removed.

You could simply replace your old conductor plate with a brand new conductor plate, and you can think of this part as an electronic circuit board for your transmission, so the electrical connector plugs in right here. It's connected to the transmission control unit, which controls the solenoids and ultimately controls all the functions of your transmission. Now this part does have a speed sensor on it that does fail and when it does, your car gets put into limp home mode, and then this is what you have to replace to fix that. So these do periodically go bad.

I don't have any service history on this ever being done, so it's kind of a ticking time bomb and it's pretty inexpensive to do and you can get the entire kit from fcp euro with literally everything you need, which is really nice. So you get your pan gasket! You get your little plug cap. You get a new electrical connector because they know these fail all the time. Even if you have the updated part, just replace that you get your new filter and obviously your conductor plate as well.

So i'll leave a link down below to all this stuff. Fcp, euro dot com, lifetime parts replacement, warranty is awesome, and that way you never have to worry about it again. So before we install this, i do want to show you one extra step i'm taking here and that is to replace a couple of little sleeves that go inside of the valve body. So let me go ahead and remove one of these and i'll show you what i'm talking about.

Okay. In order to get to these parts, we have to remove a plate. So it's just a few t20s now there's a spring behind here, so be careful! When you take your last one out, it could all shoot out. You got to pay really close attention to what you're removing whenever you're working on a valve body.

It can be kind of confusing, so if you don't feel comfortable doing this by all means, just don't do it, but it could be very beneficial and save you a lot of money when you get to that last screw. It's really when you want to hold this plate with your thumb, there's quite a bit of pressure going on here. So just make sure you have full control over this plate, so you can remove it slowly. There we go and for the most part, this spring right here is what's pushing back at you, there's a few other ones, but that's the one! That's giving you pressure, so you just don't want that to shoot out.

Okay, so from there we're going to remove this little spring and we're going to remove this little sleeve right here and you guys see the wear marks on this sleeve, just a little worn out. Basically, there are many valves inside of your transmission, and these valves have to direct fluid to make shifts happen and whatnot, and eventually parts can get worn out inside of the valve body and fluid will leak around them. So when you have transmission fluid leaking internally inside of your valve body, this can open up a whole world of issues from delayed shifts to harsh shifts to stuttering and a whole bunch of other things. So, if you're having any of these concerns with a 722.6 transmission, these overlap sleeves can really help you and let me show you the difference all right.

So, first and foremost, what we're gon na do is swap over this little plunger and next we're gon na install an o-ring, and this is the big difference. So with these after-market sleeves, they come with o-rings, and so that way, if the valve body does have some internal wear, because we saw the wear on the outside of the overlap sleeve. But what that means is that there was wear inside of the valve body itself. So, instead of replacing an expensive valve body for these issues, we add this o-ring and now that's going to keep our fluid nice and contained and controlled.

So it's going where it needs to go inside of our valve body. So with the o-ring on i'm just going to dab it in a little cap with transmission fluid, so it's nice and lubricated and then we're simply going to reinstall it. It's going to be a little bit harder to install, as you can imagine, with the o-ring and then put our little spring back in then we're just going to go ahead and reinstall the plate, which you are going to have to fight against the spring here. So it's kind of a balancing act get one of your screws ready to go, preferably towards the middle and we'll just get that started, don't cross thread.

Anything here bell bodies are pretty delicate and we'll just start this guy. I don't use any power tools on valve bodies either and then just so we're not flexing this plate, we'll get a few more in there before we start cranking these things down all right. We've got these guys all tightened up by hand now and with all these screws, nice and snug, we have our quarter, drive torque wrench and i will leave all the specs down below all the torque specifications for all the bolts. I'm doing here the valve bodies, these bolts, the pan, bolts, everything you guys want to do this at home and, of course, i'll leave.

You guys a link to where you can get these valves and the instructions, but it's very easy. I don't have this memorized or anything they tell you exactly the location of each one of these. The master overhaul kit comes with three of these guys and three o-rings, so we just did the one to two four to five o-ring sleeve. It goes right there and we know which one to use, because it only has one notch.

The next one we're gon na do is the two to three overlap. It says it has two notch ids and what they're referring to aren't these larger notches they're, these smaller ones, one here and one up here, all right so same thing. Here we have a spring that we're fighting and the issue i was having with the cl65 transmission was primarily when it was cold on the one to two shift. It would make the shift and then it would just kind of bounce you back and forth.

So it's kind of like a shuttering right after it made the shift, and it's pretty common issue that gets fixed by these valves and another one i fixed with these valves was i had a 210 chassis, e55 amg and it straight up felt like the transmission was Slipping uh like really bad, i'm like. Ah, this thing's gon na need a transmission. Let me just try this and it worked, and i drove that car daily for like three years after and it was fine all right so now we're gon na remove this spring here and this sleeve. Let's take a look at the condition here.

Yeah look at this one pretty worn out, and that means the inside of the valve body is worn out and leaking. So we have our two to three with the two notches, we'll swap over this little plunger on the inside. Just like that, lube it up reinstall. It just like that put our spring back and now the plate, so you guys get the idea.

Okay, so right now we're doing the three to four overlap: sleeve take a spring out and then gently slide this guy out, let's see and right on par with the other one so definitely worn out, and i know it could be intimidating to work on a transmission. But seriously you guys can definitely do this at home. This whole kit is like 50 and it'll fix some concerns that most people would think is simply a bad transmission. So before you spend literal thousands of dollars on a transmission, you might want to look into these and you guys saw exactly how to do it right here.

It's not hard at all and you guys can see exactly how worn out it is on the inside. You can see those shiny marks right there. That is the where i'm talking about now. I did have one case where this didn't fix.

The issue didn't fix the valve body and i had to replace the valve body, and that was on my cdi. Some of you guys may have remembered i had a 2005 e320 cdi, a diesel, mercedes, uh, same transmission and same deal, and it had some really bad shifting characteristics just all over the place. I did this kit, i did the torque converter, lockup solenoid, and it's still, it was pretty much fixed, like no lights were coming out, no limp home mode. Most people would be okay with it, but i knew it was just slightly off and i ended up putting a different valve body.

Actually i put an e55 valve body in there um because i replaced the valve body in my other e55 yeah. That's how it worked. So that car got an e55 valve body, totally fixed everything, so there are some situations uh, where the inside of the valve body is just too worn out to repair and a lot of that comes from this lifetime fluid. So you get a lot of grit in the fluid and it just wears out the valve body.

It's made of aluminum over time, because the valves are moving back and forth and kind of grinding that stuff in like sandpaper. So, that's why you should definitely replace your transmission, fluid and filter, no matter what i like to do it about every 50, 60 000 miles on the 722.6 and then there's some different intervals for the 722.9, the transmission. After that, i'll leave a video i made uh linked down below on the entire process and how to do a fluid and filter flush on those it's it's different than this. You got to fill it from the bottom, but anyway uh.

Let me get this valve body. Wrapped back up we'll get it back in the cl and then uh, i think that's it. We just got to bleed coolant, install a fan and we can go test drive this thing all right. So then the conductor plate just kind of snaps right back into place.

All right, it's got a little clip here and one here so as long as both ends are solid, you're good and then it's just a matter of reinstalling your solenoids. The same way you took them out, throw your retainers back on just be gentle. If you're using a gun, you're going to do your final torque by hand all right with everything, reassembled we're just going back together now and i'm going to show you guys how to flush out all the fluid from the transmission. Here in a moment, because if we're going to do all this work, we might as well get it all out and just do a complete service and then we're done for a very long time be gentle with the gun.

We're not using that to actually tighten anything. All right, so the valve body is torqued, except for one bolt, because we're gon na install this adapter and it gets secured with one of the valve body. Bolts like that zip it in there, then we're gon na screw in this valve and it's got an o-ring at the top, so it's got to be screwed in all the way. Like that just hand, tight is fine.

Then we have this adapter. It just fits in. Like so, okay and then with this valve, shut we're going to hook up shop air just like that, and we're just going to open this a little bit and you can hear some gurgles and what we're doing here is we're going to send air uh. I'm going to move this out of the way we're sending air through the transmission we're going to pump out all the old fluids, so this is going to get the torque converter.

This is gon na get everything. You can also turn this regulator up a little bit. I have this regulator set really low, i'm just gon na let this go for uh about 15-20 minutes it'll slowly, but surely get all the fluid out okay. So we got all the fluid out now we're just going to install the new transmission filter.

All right, then, we're going to install our new electrical connector. I like to lubricate these seals a little bit too. This part will kind of point down and don't just go jamming it in there. You kind of got to make sure it fits in the grooves you'll feel it snap in it's gon na be a tight fit that was part of their fix.

It's just closing up the tolerances you'll feel it go past the two seals and you're in and then definitely do not use any power tools on this. You will strip out the screw if you try that so just do it by hand just give it a little. Snug just like that, we're good, i'm sure the mating surface is free of oil and then you can reinstall your transpan with a new gasket. These bolts only get torqued to like eight newton meters.

So again, don't go. Nuts with a gun. Remember replace the seal for the drain plug or it could leak all right with the transmission repairs. All done.

We can get our fan back in so i reconnected the lower transmission cooler line leave the top one disconnected. So we can slide this guy in and we want to be a little bit more careful on the way in just did not mess up our new radiator. Okay. There we go tighten up the fan, install our air filters.

These things should make some noise in the dyno not sure. If they'll make any more power, though i'll bring the stock air boxes, so we can test that out too all right we'll see how far we get on the dyno. I'm just always so worried about this car. Will there be any issues, there's a percentage chance 50 i'd say at this point.

Who knows all right, so the coolant is full. I'm just tapping her up with transmission, fluid and i'll show you guys how to check this with a special dipstick tool when we get to the dyno mercedes didn't have dipsticks for some reason back then um, but first i just want to go for a ride and Put some miles on this thing before the dyno, so let's see how it runs. Let's see how it shifts, let's kind of look over everything, make sure it's ready to go and then we're heading out firing the hole, send the distronic cruise control and we have no messages on the cluster. It is a beautiful day and the cl is just running and driving perfectly.

Oh, i hope i'm not jinxing myself for this dino, i'm always nervous when it comes to running a car on a dyno, especially one that we haven't put too many miles on. Well. Let's just remember this cluster right now, as the distronic radar cruise control slows me down for being a first generation system, it works pretty well in the highway all right guys we're on the dyno here at fluid motor union, i'm a little nervous. I'm not gon na lie, i'm always nervous on the dyno, but especially on a build that really has no test miles.

I yeah just i'm just nervous, as most people would be, but uh. I want to check the transmission fluid. We did the service, but i didn't have the specialty dipstick, because mercedes doesn't give you a dipstick, so you have to have the tool and i can't find mine. So of course fluid has one.

So this is a tool i'll leave a link down below, but it's really easy we're just going to run this down the transmission dipstick tube, that's right in the middle, so i've done transmission services uh quite a few times, as you can imagine on these cars. So i kind of knew what to put in there but uh. You definitely want to double check just to be on the safe side and we're good all right. So we got to get this thing in dyno mode, so key to position one and then we're just gon na hit the reset button three times and scroll up to this.

There we go esp dynamometer test start it up and you should have a bunch of warning lights on and that's good in this case, all right. So right now oj is just setting up the dyno speed, so everything is calculated properly. So right now he's just doing some quick blips here, just to make sure everything is okay. We really want to ease into this and watch afr, which is actually pretty decent right now.

It's right in, like the 11 5 range, so that's safe, but there's no tune on the car right now, so we're just getting just some initial numbers. So yeah i mean this really doesn't mean all that much right now um, but on a dyno jet like an unloaded, dyno a stock one will put down, i think about 500, maybe 515 horsepower so on this dyno a stock one would put down like mid fours. So i know it's gon na look low like pretty much all the cars we put on this loaded dyno, but in my opinion this is the way to tune a car. It's a loaded, dyno you're gon na get more realistic load like you would have on the street or the track.

So we're not going to see any crazy numbers and we're going to be easing into this little by little um. But at least we'll know it's done right once the tune is finalized, oh and if you guys are wondering yes, i did get some hardware right there and on the other side, so we are properly holding in all of these many many coolers all right. Just another. Quick one 425 and these v12 cars are very hard to dyno oj had to add a few more straps back there.

They just make such crazy torque that they'll spin the tires on the dyno or try to come off okay, so we got 428 on that. One keep in mind: this is the totally stock tune, zero tuning thus far, and it is running richer because we have larger fuel injectors that haven't been accounted for. So it runs fine because the o2 sensors are able to adjust for normal driving, but at wide open throttle, it's just injecting more fuel than we're supposed to have it's really safe, but it's not really good for power. So right now the modifications i've made with the hybrid turbos and the injectors, which are really like the only two power modifications i've made it's still running a totally factory exhaust, but none of these modifications are being utilized right now, if anything were lower than factory horsepower, Because it's running richer, but something i'm going to do right now is i'm going to swap back to the factory intake system.

So, like i told you before, this was a prototype system from vrp and it definitely sounds cool. But it's not meant to make any more power, and since it was a prototype, it doesn't have any mounting tabs or anything like that and it's getting kind of loose on there. So i'm going to report back my findings to them and for now we're going to run the factory air boxes and i get to put back the cool carbon fiber engine cover with the little plaque with the guy's name on it. So anyway, let me swap these all right guys.

We are back together with the factory air boxes and the carbon fiber cover little amg dealie, with what's this guy's name again: g strauss and hoffen. So that looks pretty awesome. I'm not gon na lie. I really like that all right so right now we're gon na go for another blast, but in typical cl65 fashion uh.

We are running into some issues, some pretty major issues in the world of tuning, and that is we're not able to write a file. So we have been logging this entire time, just kind of easing into the throttle being real gentle. We don't want anything to blow up um, so we're getting the logs to the tuner. It's a remote tuner, but we can't write - and i was talking with oj - and this is an older me, so the e557me 2.8, this one has an emmy 2.7, that's just the engine's computer.

We might have to send the computer out for the tune, which would not be fun, then any kind of adjustment we want to make. We have to literally mail the computer out and then wait for it to come in. This is uh just kind of unfortunate in the world of modifying older euro cars, so oj's tuned a few of the newer 65s, where you don't have to do that, and these 05s and 06s there's like a couple hundred of them. No one really messes with them, especially with aftermarket turbos and different fuel systems and everything so uh yeah.

We got to do a little bit more research, see we can figure out, but i don't know if we're going to be able to get to any tuning right now, because we can't write any software we're going to go for a rip, though, with the factory air Boxes see what the sound difference is. Yeah pretty much sounds stock. You really can't hear anything at all, so the turbo sounds are pretty good with the cones, but i don't think it's going to make a big difference with power. I mean this really means nothing at all at this point, because we're just going real gentle into the throttle, so yeah 417 on that one, but that's probably not because of the factory air boxes.

We only let it cool down for like 10 minutes and these things kind of heat soak pretty bad. I think the car would benefit from larger intercoolers um, but let's uh, let's figure out tuning before we get into any more hard parts. Well guys, unfortunately, that'll do it for today on the dyno, there's really not much we can do at the moment. We have to do a little bit more research and figure out uh.

If we can flash this thing or not so uh, we did about five runs on the dyno. Most of them were just 50 throttle. We went, i think, up to like 70 or 75 throttle um, but we got enough info to start tuning, but we couldn't - and we don't really want to push our luck with this, so i'd much rather just leave and come back later with a cl 65 that Still has an engine intact. Uh then try to play around with going wide open throttle to see what the numbers would actually be at this point.

But we do know that it's over fueled by about 20 25, which is a lot um and it is running the stock boost and everything. So the car didn't have a tune before we were wondering, if maybe someone had done like a rent tech tune or something on it previously, and they didn't it's totally stock. Anyway, we have to figure out some tuning stuff and once again it's hurry up and wait on the cl65. I was really hoping to get some numbers on this car to get it tuned and to just blast it on the highway and just finally have fun with this thing.

It's been like a year now, since i bought it, but uh yeah it'll, be i don't know a couple more weeks or something until we can get back out here. Even though i'm a little disappointed, we still have no messages on the dash i've put about a hundred miles on it. In the last couple of days. It's a beautiful day, i'm gon na open up the sunroof jam out to some tunes got all the windows open and it may not have a million horsepower just yet, but i'm still gon na have some fun so anyway, guys.

I hope you guys enjoyed this video. Nonetheless, if you did give it a big thumbs up share the video with your friends subscribe to the channel, if you haven't already and most importantly, have an awesome day i'll catch all of you in the next video. Oh, you got to be kidding me made it about five miles, check engine light, wonderful, wonderful, i'll! Let you guys know what that is in the next video still running strong, though so that's good! You.