Welcome to day Two of our soon to be Supercharged C63 AMG build. We have an astronomical amount of work to do to this engine to get it ready for Boost And that means in this video this engine needs to go from this all the way to this and get some much needed strength reinforcements that you may not have ever seen on this kind of engine before. Of course. I'm going to show you a few tricks along the way and if you guys enjoy good old fashion gasoline engine car content filled with straight wrenching and no fluff, then consider subscribing to the channel.

We've gained a ton of new viewers in the last two months, but not everybody has subscribed. So if you guys want to support what I do here at legit street cars, the absolute best way to do that is to click that little red or white subscribe button I don't even remember what color it is. So enjoy the show and thank you guys! so much so with that Rusty and I are on the engine. Craig is working on a fuel system.

We are going to be going at this for probably the next 10 or 12 hours. So Cheers brother! let's get this done! So right now, Rusty and I are working on getting this engine on an engine stand so we can flip it upside down because we need to remove the lower oil pan. All right! So I am working on the front accessories here. We can do this on the stand as well, but but why not make it lighter? And he's working on transmission bolts so these balancers aren't pressed on or anything, but sometimes they just need a little bit of pry bar from both sides to get them to go.

Okay, balancer is off. As you guys are going to see throughout this video, there's going to be a ton of wow, you're in there! So we're replacing all of the pulleys right now. Rusty's removing the bolts for the wet clutch, so this is the same sspeed that was in the older ones, except it doesn't have a torque converter. it's water pump time and we'll get the pulley out of here.

Just makes it easier to get to some of these bolts. There we go. More coolant, more coolant. Oh not too bad, we're good.

Look at this big chunk we get to remove and if you guys saw the first video, you know I Got two big boxes from my friends at FCP Euro I'll drop a link down below FCP Euro.com If you guys need any car parts for your European Vehicle They have what you need and in this video we're going to start installing all of this stuff and yes, they still have the lifetime replacement guarantee. You send them an old part back and you get a new one back for free. It's crazy. We have one more bolt for the power steering pump right back here and there are four other bolts holding this guy in.

This is the most secure power steering pump youve ever seen. Next is the AC compressor. It's got three bolts I Loosen this up with my fingers. I'm just kidding.

10 mil ratcheting wrench makes life really easy with these. There's not a lot of room with the subframe. AC Compressor is going away for now. One last pulley and we are done with accessories and we only have these two top bolts left for the transmission.

And then most people would use a cherry picker. but Rusty and I are not. Like most people. we're just going to manhandle this guy about to throw this engine right off the table.

There we go. There we go. Oh Rusty and I Have an idea guys. we have an idea.

We were going to use the cherry picker but I don't think we need to. especially with all this oil on the table. This thing just slides around and we can lift it if you want to go ahead and start lifting. Oh, this is totally going to work a little more.

Okay, there we go. This is how we do it. dude. we are on there.

We go okay and we'll get a bolt in here. We're going to take the engine mount bolt off, the top goes the starter. Are we clear? Yep, we did it. I Don't need no stinking cherry picker harness is coming off right now.

Before we flip this engine or really do anything here we go. In the last 24 hours, we took our perfectly good C63 It drove right into the stall with no issues and and this is now what we have. The engine is completely stripped down and we're ready to remove some oil bans and strip it down some more. We're flipping the engine around right now here.

We can see our oil pan and it was starting to leak a little bit right there. I Believe that is coming from this section right here. Yeah, you can see the oil leak starting in here getting a little bit wet so this is a good timing. Anyway, this is a complete nightmare in the car and most people just take the entire engine out anyway to reseal that half, but we need to take that off primarily to get the front cover off to get these timing chain guides.

The pans are Rtb in this one is held in by a few T30s. Once you get them all out, they give you this section of the oil pan that helps you lift up the oil pan and it does that. It breaks the seal so you don't have to get pry bars in here and go crazy bending the pan and then you just use a little pry bar to bend the pan. I'm just kidding.

Now we can easily break the seal loose without going crazy in the oil pan and this is what we have. Very nice and clean inside. Don't suspect any issues I Don't know why I even say stuff like that. just look in the engine.

Alex Don't say anything you drinks yourself like every time. but seriously, we should be good. This is a good engine. We're not going to find anything like we did with that or with that or with that or with that.

Sometimes engines don't like me. How can I forget the first blown engine car on this channel? the Turbo. TransAm Like seven years ago, one of my first I don't know. five videos was about this thing eating bearings at the track and then having to disassemble the whole thing and rebuilding it all.

But that engine is still in here and it's still good. Rusty Just removed these bolts so this other little oil pan is ready to come off. There's lots of oil pans here. Lots of failure points too.

All right, how's that screen And the last engine that we used? There was bits of guide inside of here and this one looks totally clean. I Don't suspect any issues with the guides on this particular engine. Uh, on most of these M156, the guides and the timing chains are fine. These don't have an issue where they stretch or anything like that, but we have seen some guides lose a couple little pieces in here.

Not cause any issues yet, but you know we got the engine out. so while we're in there, we're going to definitely put new guides in. They are about 10 years old and a lot of times time can ruin when the timing chain guides because the plastic gets brittle and and then cracks anytime. Rusty and I can double team something.

We definitely want to take advantage. We are on a crazy time crunch guys. It's Tuesday and this car has to be on the dyno on. Friday We have to build a fuel system.

Still, we still have to build the engine too. That's something. There's about 5,000 things that can go wrong too. One little error and we're dead in the water.

All right, she's off. Yep, it's definitely leaking from here. We had a little bit of an oil leak in this area here, so we're definitely going to fix that. The inside of the crank case looks so good and that's probably because I maintain all of my cars with AMS oil.

I Think this is the best engine oil on the market? I'm going to leave you guys a link down below where you can become one of my preferred customers and get 25% off. They have the oil in many different flavor flavors, including the Z-rod for older cars that need a little bit more zinc. they have oil filters, coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid gear, oil, all sorts of different additives. you know how much? I Love my Mudslinger and I use the heavy duty metal protector on all of my cars to prevent them from rusting.

Oh, and even if you guys use a different oil, do yourself a favor and use the Amsoil.com website. It's amazing. This is how much you save when you become a preferred customer. It's massive.

It gets shipped to your door, but they show specifications for everything so it'll tell you what weights you can use depending on the temperature. It'll tell you how much to fill your oil. It'll even give you exact instructions on how to check and they do this for the coolant as well. So no more guesswork going to different forums and getting bad information and they have it for everything including the transmission.

This is for my E55 So save 25% on the entire website and become a legit street cars preferred customer by clicking on the link down below. Next up is the the front cover and lots of bolts go all the way around and that is glued on as well. There aren't too many actual seals on this engine cover coming off. There we go All right.

Wow, this seal is really hard. This is a thermostat seal and it is very brittle. It's torn from us pulling it off, but okay. glad we're doing this.

Not that we would have had to pull the front timing cover to get to the seal, but that's the one for the actual thermostat right here. so we would have had to pull the thermostat. And I'm actually surprised we didn't have any issues with this being stuck open or anything with that seal. it was pretty mangled.

It's nice doing this when the engine is flipped this way. so here we can see a total of Two Chains We have the main timing chain right here and this one here is for the oil pump. So it has two little gears, a few guides, and a spring right here. so we're going to swap this out as well.

But overall, these guides look really nice and there's nothing wrong with these. We probably could have left left everything the guides and the chain, but uh, you know, engine's out. So right now we are going to loosen up the oil pump and with that loosened up, we can remove this little timing chain so we'll push this down by hand. prop that up there we go, give us just enough slack.

Now we have a nice little souvenir. Get this guide off. Okay, that's a necklace definitely and this is under a little bit of spring tension. We'll pop that back there and then we can just pull it off like that.

There we go. Guides and chain can come off all at the same time. Basically that and we are going to replace this gear right here. I Usually just come right off.

Little persuasion. Okay, woo, this was on there. Pretty good, but we got it off and we are replacing it because there is rubber here that can fail. Don't see it too often, but this is a fairly inexpensive part.

so if you're doing the chain, definitely replace this guy. but you can see in here it's rubber. Here's our new gear and what's nice about most Mercedes is that they are keyway. There is the factory key so this only goes on one way.

It's going on a lot nicer now because I use a little bit of sandpaper here. you can see this spot right here. That's what was hanging us up, but all good. Hang on before we go any further, let's reeal this plate.

I've never seen one of these leak but this is definitely leaking. it's just sealed with RTV And to get to this, you got to remove the timing cover. Couple of T30s hold this plate on. Not going to lie.

I Don't know exactly what this is for, but maybe we'll find out together. Okay, all right so this sprung out at me and I believe that this is a thermostat for the engine oil cuz the two cooler lines go in right here. and yeah, that's what this is. this.

A thermostat? Cool. I've never messed with this before, but we can fix the little oil leak that's coming from it and before we do this, the engine needs a serious cleaning. Prep work and cleaning is very important when doing engine work as seals and RTV don't stick well to a dirty surface. So I started off by removing large pieces of RTV with a razor blade and next I used a white plastic bristle disc on a drill with a low speed setting and very little pressure.

These do a great job of cleaning without compromising the flat mating surface of the engine. and you don't want to use the green or red discs because they can actually remove metal material from your engine for the 85,000 miles of carbon buildup on the Pistons I used a turbo and intake cleaner solution from CRC I let that soak in for about 10 minutes and then used a few brushes and Brake clean to make the Pistons look brand spanking new. After that, I used the drill with the white plastic bristle disc on the head mating surface and a final rinse with brake clean and Shop air and this is our finished product at this point in the job. I'm getting pretty excited to bolt on some new parts and I cleaned it so well that you can literally eat off of this engine.

So in order to be environmentally friendly and not waste a plate, I just put my food on the engine since since it's that clean I know I can eat it. These are very carb friendly, a lot of protein, and super plain. I've got the engine turned around. that's why this is on this side now.

But here goes: our oil thermostat back in and there's an O-ring here to replace as well, so that's good and we need a little bit of RTV right here. and then we can reinstall our plate. Like so. All right.

While you're holding this, you can tighten up your 2 T30s, a nice little hand tighten and I'll wipe away any excess. Our TV as well. All right, that's resealed. Here's everything we're replacing behind the front timing cover: New Guides new Chains New spring, new Tensioner New Everything We already have two new seals installed in the front cover If you guys are wondering: I Do take a ton of pictures during the disassembly.

For little details like this, you see how the orange part of the guide curls over. You can see on the new part. it's right here and we know that is going to go right here. and instead of doing one of these, this is what we want.

That's why I take pictures. Hang on. before we actually go together, let's put a little bit of engine assembly Lube on this guide. There we go and we have another guide going on right here.

and one last guide that's going to go on now. We still have this, but that'll go on later. In case you guys are wondering if the old timing chain stretched at all, it did not. It's absolutely perfect.

This ain't no Audi or BMW Come on now! this is a pretty cool piece. This is an idler gear so it spins and it has these little holes in there and oil goes inside and it sprays oil all over the chain and the guides and it simply slides on like that. All right. It is chain time now and we don't have to worry about any timing just yet and we get the heads in the cams back together.

We can do that, but this one goes here. This one goes there. There we go. look at that.

It's spinning oil everywhere. It is oil pump chain time. There's the new oil pump chain spring going on. Next we have our new oil pump chain.

We're going to put it on the gear first, then slide on our guide like that. Then we'll pull the chain up, apply our tensioner, and we have a new seal for the oil pump right here. All right there we go. Now we can put our baby timing chain onto the oil pump gears.

something like this. It's a little weird to get this on. There we go. Okay, we're on and then with the tension off, we can install the final guide final guide down.

That was good. Wow, that was really good. Welcome to Legit Recours Street Idle Oil Pump Bolts Going back in, look at this monstrosity of an oil pump people. This can just pump all the oil in the world of this M156.

Craig Did you just touch a bolt? Oh man are dirty Dar Couple of bolts for the oil pickup tubes. Look at how gigantic these are. This is a race motor people and we'll give these guys a hand. Titan And these deserve more than a hand.

Titan They deserve a hand. Click, click, click and click. Don't worry, we're going to torque the important stuff on this engine. And don't be fooled.

These handbuilt AMG engines are probably built like this too. There's a guy in Germany doing click and housing. couple click, bgs. You're good.

So the front timing cover has these two seals and this one here and the rest is RTV. Now there's a lot of RTV that goes on this front timing cover. and of course I took pictures of where the RTV goes on the engine so we can match it up with the front timing cover. Now general rule of thumb if you forgot to take a picture is really any of these shiny surfaces is what gets the RTV so this right here would not.

uh and then you want to make sure to get around the bolt holes as well. see Rusty doing one right there and he's got a nice gun that he's using. Look at those beads. Those are beautiful, beautiful beads.

Rusty Thank you! I'm known for my beautiful beads. As nice as Rusty's beads are, it's good to flatten out the RTV so you know it's kind of a little bit more consistent. and then it's covering all of the surfaces and you make sure you don't miss anything. Doesn't have to be very thick either.

Timing cover is all sealed up. This will never ever leak again. I Don't I don't know why I say stuff like this, not on front timing cover. It'll never leak all right.

Rusty is doing me the honor of holding the chains away I will sneak this through your arms now. and I'm not saying you only have one chance at doing this, but you kind of do. You don't want to smear it up too much. You want to take your time on this part here.

Okay, that dos in there we go. Nice. That side on Mhm. Okay, good.

all right, that's perfectly lined up. Now we need some bolts now we just have to get our bolts in and I definitely took a picture of this as well. So many bolts and this one there we go. All right, everything is started.

Turn this bad boy down a little if any of these bolts stop before they rest up against the timing cover. you have the wrong bolt in. it's too long now. I'm just going around tor work all of these.

So satisfying. All right. Front cover's done, boil, pants resealed ready to go on. and this was the one that had a little bit of a leak and leak.

No more. So many bolts. Rusty bolts. Yep.

so if you guys are wondering, this is the same day as when this video started, so all the work you've seen to this point is one full day. It's like 5:00 p.m. right now and we started around I Don't know 9:30 or so just in case you wondering, like real time what's going on here and I'll keep you guys posted throughout this series on the real time of all these jobs. So you know because we're only here Monday through Friday to do this project Dyno on Friday Fingers crossed.

That's the plan. We're going to be a cannonball garage, but who knows. lots of issues can come up. Go around torquing all these.

now. You guys ever work on engines before? like it's a lot of fun. Obviously there's a lot of pressure involved in working on an engine because you can mess stuff up. but especially once you get to know an engine and you're just kind of going to town cleaning Parts Making cool torque, wrenching, clicking sounds, it's a good time.

Oil pan number two is about to go on. I'll lay down a little bead of our RTV All right, make the connection I'm home. We're sealing up this pan now. Line up those bolt holes and we'll start everything by hand.

The last pan is going on I Just noticed this right now. It says okay on it. What in the world I think there's a date? Yeah Two? Oh yeah. June 2013 This was okay and it's still okay.

All right guys, we are done for this evening. She's all buttoned up, everybody's tired and hungry so we will see you in the morning, which is just like it's literally the next scene. It makes no difference to you guys at all. and just like that, it's the next morning.

And yes, I'm going to wear the exact same outfit for this entire build. I Just Chang every morning and just I mean why? why dirty up more clothes? But anyway, everybody is back at it. We have cleaned up the floor a little bit, done a little housekeeping, and uh, we're about to get some head studs in this beautiful M1156 engine. and before the cylinder heads go on, we've installed these two gears for this build and because we're boosting this engine, we are going to replace the factory head bolts with a much stronger head stud and this is going to keep the head clamped down to the block so under boost the heads don't lift up and our engine will last much longer.

So for these head studs, we're going to use an ARP Fastener assembly Lube on these bottom threads. So just a little bit like this and the block is already super clean. We've blown out all these holes once again and we're going to go ahead and just put this in until it bottoms out and you can use a little 8 mil on a small ratchet to assist you I wouldn't use a gun for this though. All right right there when it bottoms out.

That's it. We're not torquing the stud into the block. That is good right there. Stud Chears helps to have a couple of studs installing these all the head studs are installed and I always think a short BL with head studs sticking out just looks so menacing before the head gaskets go on.

We have a little bit of silicone to add and one on the other side as well. And because we cleaned the engine so well, the cylinders were dry, so I've added some engine assembly Lube all the way around each one. I Spun the engine around to get to the Pistons that were up at that time so this is all protected for our first start. Factory Head Gasket number one going in and these are Factory multi-layer steel gaskets.

No real reason to do anything outside of this. This is going to hold boost just fine. Head Gasket number two going on. Now, because we're using the Vrp head studs, we have to use RTV on these top threads for it to seal out the coolant.

All right guys, our freshly machined cylinder heads are are ready to go. So these were resurfaced, cleaned, checked, and they're good. They're good M156 cylinder heads. Now we have to be careful we don't smudge up all of this.

RTV A second person definitely helps kind of guide it in. All right, what's going on before we put the head down? Rusty Just checked in there to make sure we didn't spread any RTV all over the place and we are good so now we can gently bring it down this cylinder. Heads down. let's get the other one on and we do have about an hour hour and a half of working time with the RTV on the thread.

So you're not in any kind of crazy rush, but you definitely want to get the job done. There we go. Okay, if you guys are doing studs and your head isn't sitting flush with the block and you know 100% that your dowels aren't hanging up, it's most likely because of the manufacturing process of the studs. They aren't 100% straight until you push them down.

So right now we have a washer that we put some RTV on top and bottom and we're using this long extension to guide it down and you can see that helps it slide right over the stud RTV on the bottom of the nut as well. Going in, there's a top and bottom to these washers as well. This is the bottom, the rounded side is the top and now by tightening this gently by hand, we can pull this in again. If this hangs up at all or you think it might be the doels hanging up, don't do this.

This is only if you know it's because of the studs and this happens a lot with studs. All of the nuts and washers are installed and now we're just snugging them all up. You have to follow a special sequence when torquing down the head. So this is the front and this has three stages.

We're doing 55 newton meters 110 and then final stage 15. So we have one, two, three, and so on. There're a total of 10 on each head. you're going to get a little exercise in when you do this and this is definitely one of those jobs where you just want to do the whole thing in one shot.

Don't get distracted, don't get called Away by your kids if you're doing this at home. Dad make me a sandwich, make your own sandwich. Working my head studs child. I'm on my final pass here.

150. This is when fatigue sets in. People got to be strong. It's a mental game.

really. Oh man. All right. Four on number nine and last one, the head is tored.

All right. Both heads are torqued. This is looking like an engine again. Next up we have Cam Shaft Before the cams go in, we have to install our final guide for the chain and that one slides in this way and we can kind of feed it on down.

That's disappearing. Now we need to line This pin up with the guide so it goes through the hole in the guide and then I'm going to push the guide through. You can see it's going to hold that PIN to make sure the guide is in all the way. I've threaded in a bolt and that's good.

Soon as you hear that noise, you can hear it's bottomed out and we can pull the bolt out. There are four more head bolts. They're little guys. They go in after the main studs and there's two here as well and you just reuse these.

There we go. Next, we have our idler pin slides in like that and there's one T30 that goes right in here. Okay, there we go. Rusty's getting the other side guide pins in.

So I'm getting prepared for our Taets and our aftermarket cams. We're doing cams. Everything is nicely lubricated, including where the cam followers sit and you can also call these lifters. Taets Buckets and I went with the black series version so you can see here.

these are black and they are coated in an anti friction material, less friction, more horsepower and these come on the SLS Black and I mentioned. This has the forged pistons being a performance pack car, but this also gets the forged crank shaft and the rods from the SLS as well. So now we can install the Black Series Taets buckets. Lifters or followers pick your poison.

They slide in like that and I like to soak these in oil for a few hours before they go in. We want everything very, very well lubricated. The Black Series lifters are installed and they just look so cool. they look way cooler than these Silver series lifters that's not what they're called at all and these lifters do just fine.

I Don't know, Not really. Everything in the valve train on the M156 can go bad. The cams can go bad, the lifters, the cam shaft actuators. We're pretty much fixing all of that right now.

But if you're doing this job, I would definitely Pony up for the Black Series because these can get stuck in place because of friction. It's typically from engines that aren't maintained, but if they get stuck in place, that's when they start to wear out and get destroyed. But my car was maintained so you can see how they spin so freely. Let's go ahead and get our harmonic balancer back on and then we can set this crankshaft up to 40 before top dead center and you do want to replace this bolt.

It's one time use only and before we go ahead and put a ton of torque on our new harmonic balancer bolt, we have to install our new AMG chain tensioner and it goes right in the block. here. it's got a lot of threads, takes a while to thread in, there it goes using socket that makes life a lot easier and this gets torqued to a cool 75 newm. Now to torque, the harmonic balancer requires a crazy Contraption like this to counter hold it.

This is Rusty's handiwork using an exhaust hanger or three. it. looks like it works all right. So first stage is 147 Newton Met I Don't have a breaker bar or a pipe to fit over this so I just have to be strong about it.

Oh my. God Okay, we have to do 250 Newton M Now now I have a long extension in a socket that should help ready when you are. Yeah now you actually have to loosen the bolt up. So we just seated everything.

now it's loose again. Now we're going back at it with 200 newm and the floor is really helping me out here. Yeah now they say you need 180 turn which is like physically impossible. We've tried this before, we'll just see how far we can get.

I'll tell you what' you get rusty 50 Oh my gosh, that was little more 80. All right, we got it. Come on now. Okay so that's 90 guys.

I don't know how people get another 90. Um, it's always been a crazy spec to me and we've set it up like this and never had any issues. Craigs Car has got like 800 horsepower for 10,000 Mi No problem. so we're good Now we need to set this up in preparation for timing the engine.

so we're going to go to 40 right there. So you're lining this line up that says 40 with this right here in the front cover to pair up with the black series lifters. drink every time I Say black series lifters. We have the Vrp street cam shaft.

so Victory Road Performance takes the factory camshafts and has them reground for more lift and duration. So they actually weld up the cam lobes and reg grind these so they're stronger than stock. This is an excellent option if your cams are bad because they're very expensive and hard to find and these are still totally streetable cams so it's not going to be lumping your car around, but it is going to sound a little bit different. They're good for about 20 horsepower na across like the entire Power Band So we should be able to rev this engine even higher with these cams and they're coated as well.

I am so pumped to have cams and a blower on my C63 before the cams go in, we are adding a little bit of engine assembly Lube on the loes and the journals everywhere. You can't really overdo it with engine assembly Lube or oil before that first start. Now we can gently install our Cam and I've kept all of these caps in order so we'll hand tighten these and don't worry if the cam is not laying down perfectly flat just yet. It's because lobes are hitting the lifters at different angles Rusty's doing the driver side cam shafts and I have an exhaust cam left on this side.

There we go Now This cap is used for both the intake and the exhaust. It's one big cap last one going on. right now we're snugging all the bolts down by hand. This is what I call handbuilt AMG Cam bolts are all snug down I Like to start in the middle and then work my way around the outside.

Take your time with this and do it by hand with everything snug down and even we can go ahead and torque these. They just get torqued to 10 newm. It's a very small bolt and again we're going to be working from the inside, inside to the outside. But we're going to put a temporary pause on the cam shafts and timing and do some other things while we wait for our new cam shaft adjuster plates.

While we wait on some parts, I can start to reassemble the front of the engine. We have this breather tube right here for the PCV. Next I'm going to install a new water pump gasket. Thank you thank you thank you I Have my assistance here.

Water pump going on. There we go. Okay, water pump is torqued. Let's get our pulley on water pump pulley going on thermostat housing.

Going back on, we're going to be blocking off the secondary air injection with these cool Vrp blockoff plates and these are just sealed with a little bit of RTV Next up are all of the engine pulleys and the belt tensioner. FCP Euro sells a really nice kit and this way we won't have to worry about pulleys going out later that are kind of difficult to reach once you get the engine back in the car. And yes, I took a picture of where all the pulleys go now at this point we are flying. I Finished installing all of the new pulley, a new seal went in the oil filter housing, a new belt tensioner, the alternator went back in, oil cooler pipes were Bol in the power steering pump, the AC compressor, and we even hung the engine harness.

It's getting real people. it's getting real. The majority of the engine is built. we just have the cam adjuster plates hopefully coming in tomorrow.

Uh, then we can get the valve covers on the supercharger, the transmission with a phone on it, and everything else. It's got to go on that cradle and back in this car. So what you guys just saw in this video is two full days of work. So Tuesday and Wednesday it's it's Wednesday right now at about 7:30 at night and uh, we are beat.

But I Can't wait to show you guys what Craig has been working on behind the scenes in the next video. Uh and then we'll get the blow on the transmission, We'll get it all back together and I have no idea if we're going to make this Dyno on Friday it just it doesn't seem very possible right now, but we're going to work our butts off to try and make It happen. So I Hope you guys really enjoyed this video I Hope you're enjoying the C63 series thus are and if you are, give it a big thumbs up. share the video with your friends, subscribe if you haven't already, try to get way more sleep than we're getting this week, and most importantly, have an awesome day! I'll see all of you in the next video If You guys missed the first video? then here's what you missed that doesn't make any sense Should we do this scene right now and leave Craig Like that in the background? Yeah, blur that out.

Going to take the uh engine mounts? We're going to take the top of the engine mount bolts. We're going to take the top bolt. so yeah, we had a little we had a little. We had a little bit of an oil leak in this area here that we are I don't need it anytime soon I Can go in the morning.

We do want to show here. we're going to show Jesus Quiet on the set. Jeez! Here is everything for the timing. Here's everything for the timing that needs.

Here's everything that's under. Here's everything we're replacing underneath. No, here's everything we're replacing behind the front timing cover. Yeah, you guys know where put these bolts.

Um I mean I'd like to say yes right now. Is that song stuck in your head now? What to run up a play of steps? uh no. just more footage for Max to sift through turn off air compressor or I can't film I love Germany cck.