Welcome back to legit street cars and man, oh man, do i have a great video for you guys today something i've been looking forward to for a while now, and that is not only getting the e30 on the road for the first time. So it's first drive but also doing a little experiment to the engine. So this is something that's going to have the really young guys saying: bro, there's no way that's going to work, you're totally going to blow it up, and then it's going to have the old timer saying yeah kid we've been doing that for decades. It's no big deal, you didn't invent anything new and it'll, probably work and then you'll probably have like the middle aged guy.

In my middle age, you'll probably have the middle aged guys. Like myself saying yeah, i don't know, i guess i could see how that could work. I could see how it could damage the engine, i'm a little skeptical, but i just need to see it for myself and then maybe i'll be a believer. So that would be my generation.

I guess i don't know anyway. It's something i've always wanted to experiment with, so you guys are going to see it in this video, but first we need to fix the brakes on this thing, because that's why i haven't driven it. Yet it's got no brakes and the reason it doesn't have any brakes is because this cover this really thick cover kind of sits over here. It's pretty much destroyed at this point.

So, let's just rip this off, it's been dragging on the street forever. There we go you're done and that piece has retained a lot of moisture. So you can see some of this foam is still up here and it has rotted out this top brake line. So these are fuel lines down below, and this brake line has a little pinhole leak.

Now, surprisingly, the rest of these lines are in pretty decent shape, especially considering that this is a midwest vehicle. So there is a fuel line here that isn't the best, but it's not leaking it's pretty solid. At this point we can get to both ends of the line fairly easily, so this may be a good candidate just to replace the entire line. That is the most proper way to do this, but even though the rest of the line is in pretty decent condition under the vehicle, we can get to the connection right there.

So at this point, i'm going to remove these brackets and i don't think there's much of this one left anymore might have to drill that one out we're gon na remove these brackets this one's nice so that we can lower the brake line down a little bit. We're gon na have to get a little violent with this screw, so i just cut that a little, so we can take it apart here. Sometimes you can turn those out with a flat head, but it's just kind of breaking apart, which is no big deal there. We go so we might be opening up a big can of worms here, but i'm going to spray this down that we have a fighting chance of getting that fitting out and while the penetrating oil is soaking in we're gon na do a bit of maintenance.

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Well, it took me about a minute just to get the wrench over it, but here it is and here's our moment of truth that this is going to break free nicely. Oh it did it turned wow. I'm really surprised. Okay, i've got this sorted out.

Let's take a look at what kind of flare they used back in the day: oh a bubble: flare, an old school bubble, flare nice, so you'll notice. Here i cut the line right here. I was actually considering a union connection. If i can cut out a piece of rust about yay, big and put in one union i'll, do it if the rest of the line is in decent condition.

But as you can see here, it was quite a large piece of the line that was actually rotted out, so i ended up having to cut out a lot more than one union fitting would take care of and that definitely factored in when deciding to replace the Entire line - and let me just show you what i'm doing here. Basically, this was a phillips head, but it was just so rusted that it had deteriorated to nothing. I couldn't get a screwdriver in there, so you can actually cut a line, make it a flathead and give yourself a chance of turning this out. All right.

Let's see what kind of chance i gave myself well pretty good one. We did snap the head off. So there's that, but at least we were able to turn that and uh yeah i'll still have to drill the rest of it out, but that's the world of working on a rusted car. This car's, really not that rusted! It's not that bad! The body's! Actually pretty nice, but you know what i mean certain fasteners are just not in the best of condition.

So let's get this line out of here, i'm trying so hard not to break any of these plastic clips. Everything is so brittle there. We go nice and gentle. Okay, all right there we go.

This will be fun. Look at all these nice factory bends, i've kind of destroyed a few of them, but i have a little secret trick, not secret at all. We're going to be using copper to replace this, so i can bend most of it by hand which is going to be key with something like this. Nothing too exciting.

With this line up here, it took me about 10 minutes to get my hands in here and counter hold the line to break it free, but uh. There was no rust up here at all, so this one broke free instantly and i just screwed it out with my fingers. So here's our other piece right here, it's more nice bends. This will be great.

Okay, so here is the game plan. I bought a 25 foot long piece of 3 16, copper tubing, so this is the same size tubing as the factory steel line and i'm going with copper for a few reasons. First off it's much easier to bend, so we're going to be able to make all of our bends by hand with this, whereas with steel you're going to need a special tool and it's very difficult to get tight bends done, especially in the rear by the differential. Also, this won't rust out, like the steel tubing and it's much easier to make our flair.

So we are gon na be using a bubble flare, so we're gon na match exactly what the bmw has and that would be opposed to a double flare, or this could be called a standard flare. This is much more common on newer cars. I think pretty much. Every newer car has a double flare, but some older european vehicles do use the old bubble flare, which is actually easier to make.

So we have a flaring tool and let's go ahead and set that up and i'll show you how to make a bubble flare. Okay, so i had to bust out the old school bubble flare only kit, most of the double flare kit tools will also do the bubble flare because it's just the first stage of the double flare. How many times have i said, flare now, but apparently this one won't so i've had this kit for about 20 years haven't used in a very long time, because most everything is double flare but anyway, here it is so let's get this guy to work. First thing don't forget to put your fitting on the line.

First, if you forget that you're gon na have to cut off your flare and just start over, so not the end of the world, but just don't forget, then every size is listed here. So we're going to pick the right size put it over, it won't fit if it's the wrong size and before we tighten this down all the way. We just want to make sure that the line is flush with the top of the tool in some kits. It's got to stick out a bit, but not in this one.

So just read the instructions, so we got to get that perfect. That is very important, otherwise, you'll know right away. The flare will look horrible, okay, so that is flush. Now we're going to go ahead and tighten this and you can stick this into a vise also, it makes things a lot easier, but i don't have a vise.

Yet it's on the way, though it's a hundred years old, it's pretty awesome. So then we just slide this guy over and the little fitting is gon na slide right on the inside of the tube okay. So everything is lined up now, we're just going to simply crank down and when it stops, you're done. Copper is very, very easy.

With steel, you just got to give it a little bit more muscle and right there, that's it now, let's loosen this up and we'll have a sweet bubble. Flare. Let's get this out of here. Oh yeah! That is awesome, and here is my bubble flare.

Looking pretty good and if you want to compare it to the factory one here, you are so they're very, very close, and i recommend, if you guys, have never done this just to practice a few times on a piece of tubing. You'll get it it's easy and there you are so there is my bubble flare and now we're going to go ahead and attach this end to the back of the car and start running the line. Oh and before we run the line, just a quick warning, because these are your brakes and this is kind of important, but don't use these compression fittings they're, not for automotive lines, as it says right here. No s, para uso and systems yeah.

I don't speak spanish at all. Oh it's right here. Look at that! It's right there not for use in automotive brake line system. So listen to what they're saying you will see these on some cars as a repair.

The problem is you stick the line in without flaring it on this end, and then you just crank down and this little guy right here kind of just compresses and makes the seal, but you can still pull the line out. I mean it's really hard, but it's still technically possible to pull the brake line out so a more proper repair, if you're not going to replace the entire line. Is a union fitting like this one here - and this is a double flare union? So it's meant to accept a double flare line and it's going to seal on the inside of there, so your double flared line would screw right into the union and you can't pull this out so this is considered a proper brake line repair. This is not, but this is your best option.

Okay, so this is what your bubble flare is going to look like with the fitting on the other side, and now we're going to go ahead and screw this in, and i've already cleaned out the receiving end of this fitting, because it's quite dirty back there. So the flaring part is definitely the fun part running the line. This looks really cool. It's not that fun.

It's not that fun! Okay, and if you're doing steel lines, i mean it's a nightmare. You got to take everything apart to do that properly. I swear, but with these they are quite flexible, i guess you'd say so. We can feed them in and bend them see.

Not superman here, they're very easy to bend. It's copper. So let's go ahead and start feeding her in and what's nice is this brake line? Is held in at so many points along the way that they've kind of drawn out our map for us and really you know you know where it's going to end up, so you really can't screw this up okay. So there is a good view of the line into the fitting i've threaded in a few times and we won't crank down on it just yet, but now we have a good baseline to start running this thing properly along the body.

Okay, so now we're just gon na snap it in along the way in these little plastic holders, which i only broke one by the way, there's like five or six of them. It's not bad. There's little humps in the floor, you kind of got ta bend around those just like factory when you're running up against a fuel line. It gives you kind of a little bit of a guide on how to bend it, which is nice, see.

We have this hump right here, there's a part of the body that sticks out a little bit further. So that's that, okay, so with the hump, we can start to snap this in to its proper holders along the fuel line, and i've already made a bend to go along this fuel line. It's kind of nice when you're going along other lines, you can just mimic what the factory did in this case it kind of holds itself along the way. But if you have to step away just kind of zip tie this up, because it will kind of drag your entire line down and it could make some bends that you don't want all right.

So at this point i have to cut off some of this excess tubing to start running it up there to get a proper measurement on exactly what i need. You don't want it to be too long or too short, so we're going to waste a little bit because i'm not going to get this perfect the first time. But i know that if we cut right around here, it should be more than enough and then we'll make one more cut when we can feed this up there and get a really good look at what we're dealing with. So we have a tubing cutter and it's got a blade and it just rides along the tube.

You got to tighten it a few times as it clamps in and cuts through and that's it, and this is that tubing cutter. So you can see the line will ride on these rollers on this side, and then it's got a razor that spins and you just keep on tightening it until the line gets cut. All the way through and you're done. Okay, so here is when stuff gets really tricky, so i cut this line once more.

I fed it up there and i think this is about the length it's supposed to be, and i've tried to kind of duplicate the factory bend. It's really tight up there. So it's pretty close right now and we have to bubble flare this on the car now. So it's the exact same procedure, but i can't just leave this thing clamped on there because it weighs a lot.

We have to do this all kind of in one shot. If you will so we've gotten the line flush right there and we can't mess this one up, because i don't really have any room for error on this line, i mean, maybe we would get another shot at it, but maybe not okay. We have our tool and now we are going to compress this down and hope we get a perfect bubble flare. We should we should just a little bit more nerves at this point, the other end.

If we messed it up, we could just chop it off. No harm no foul, we just start over. We have 25 feet the car's, not that long. This one's got ta be mint.

Okay and bam looks awesome. That is perfect. Okay, cool, okay, we're fitting up there. This is gon na seal great.

So now i have to try and connect it all the way up there to the bottom of that you can there you go, you can see where i'm going now and it's right above the frame rail, very tight, all right. It was pretty much impossible to get a camera in there for you guys to see, but basically i attached that line to the bottom of there and we're done we're done with the brake line repair except we still have to bleed the brakes. But let's play judge alex's work time, so here's our new brake line - and i focused on not having this brake line rub up against the body. You don't want that.

You want there to be a little bit of an air gap, so some of the little clips broke off. I'm gon na have to get some new parts, but most of them are there like this one. So you can see here. I know it looks tight, but this is not hitting the floor and here is my bend.

My factory bend going this way. This one looks much better, then it goes kind of under this hump through here and eventually that line leads all the way to the back and connects right here. So this bend looks pretty good and this is more or less where it was from the factory. Doesn't look as good, but they install these brake lines before they put half the car together and they're, probably using really nice fancy equipment to do it, especially nowadays, i'm pretty happy with this.

Overall, we're not touching anywhere on the body we didn't have to cut and splice in a new line. We did this properly by replacing the entire thing and now it's time to bleed the brakes and i've been soaking these for a little bit but uh. This ain't gon na be fun okay, so you always want to start with the caliper that is furthest away from the master cylinder, which is this one, and i've already filled the master cylinder. The cap is off so in theory, we're ready to start the brake bleeding procedure, except as you've seen these brake bleeders are quite rusted, to say the least.

So before we begin before, we attempt to crack this loose, just a quick prayer to the car gods. Dear car gods, please allow this screw to turn freely and the fluid to be extracted so that this e30 bmw will have brakes. Once again. I think i've done a lot of good for cars over the last 20, something years of my life.

So please please just help me out with this one. I really don't want to have to replace calipers right now. This video is supposed to be about getting this car on the road. Okay, all right! Thank you, car gods! Thank you all right here we go guys.

This is a seven millimeter, get it on there, nice and snug. Here we go cross. Our fingers pray whatever. Whatever you want.

Are you serious? Oh car gods? Are you serious that was? I was not expecting that it crap look at how nice this is see. This is what makes me think that, although it looks kind of like this car is rusty and we just replaced a rusted brake line that it's not that bad like the frame and the floor, and a lot of this stuff is just kind of surface rust. Like the exhaust, so overall, this car isn't nearly as rotted as it may look like, especially if you people in the south that see a little bit of surface rust and tell me i got to junk the car, but anyway, this is great. The fluid's already coming out sweet okay, so if you've learned anything from this video, it's that a quick prayer to the car gods can sometimes help you out big time in this case.

Well, wait a minute! I shouldn't speak too soon. We still have like three other ones to go, but this is a good start, so we're going to be doing this with some shop air and you can already see the fluid starting to go. Look at that. This is by far the fastest way to bleed your brakes.

Okay, this side is done. We're getting a really nice amount of fluid. Coming out perfect. All right, that's tight car gods hook it up.

Please just do the exact same thing you did on the other side, i'm already putting the hose on so i'm fairly, confident here, all right, yeah wow! These are really easy. My cart's going away car god leave my cart alone. What is going on, i think i've summoned like a ghost all right all right now we have the right front like butter like butter, ooh nasty fluid in there get that all out. Okay and the last one oh come on come on last one! Don't do that! Okay, it cracked is there gon na be fluid.

Oh thank you. Thank you. Car cuts you're the best we're good, all four of them all right, so i've topped up the brake fluid. It is nice and clean.

So at this point, i'm gon na start this engine up hit the brakes and see what it feels like. Okay. So it's been about a week and a half since i've started this thing and it's dead, it's dead to be expected. Okay, so i have a jumper on the battery.

We got wipers that work. Oh, that's that sticking valve the valve is sticking again. It sat for like a week and a half and now we're getting that horrible ticking sound that we were trying to avoid uh before. Ah, great all right um, i have to take the spark plug out of there and uh spray something in there we got ta.

We got ta clean up that carbon man, so with the valve open that much we can spray the cleaner on there, and i know this is like deja vu. If you guys saw the last video on this car, we already did this and we seafoamed it too. I'm just going to spray that all right and i'll let it sit for about 10 minutes while we're waiting for the intake valve cleaner stuff to break up that carbon. Let's swap out this old fuel filter, so i'm just pinching off both of the rubber lines to limit the amount of fuel that we lose and get all over the shop, and these little panel poppers are great for removing the hose off of these old-school fuel filters.

Just like that all right and that one too all right now we can remove the fuel filter. Ah, i always make a little bit of a mess and, let's see what was in this guy, i got ta say the fuel does smell pretty varnishy it's about 10 years old, but uh. This isn't that dirty see a little bit of discoloration in the fuel coming out of this side, but i've seen much worse. This isn't bad make sure when you install your new fuel filter that you have the arrow pointing towards the engine, so the fuel is going to come in this side from the fuel pump and out this side to the engine.

Okay, that clamp is tight. This clamp is tight and that is tight. We are good, okay, so there's the valve again. It looks pretty good to me.

I don't think it should stick, let's spin it a few more times. Last time we spun it like 10 times it didn't stick, and then we were good and the engine ran fine. Ah there's that noise again darn it is it this valve. That's even sticking.

This was the one before this one seems to be working fine. This could be a completely different valve. Oh, we got to get the valve cover off okay, so before it was this one that was sticking up so watch this as i go underneath there and spin the engine we'll see which one it is this time all right. There it is okay, so i had to watch that footage to figure it out as well.

So i'll play it back for you again and as you can see now we have this guy. That is hanging up so the intake valve over here. So let's get this spark plug out and we'll do the same treatment as last time. We should be able to free this up.

Okay, so there is that valve. I know it's really hard to see, but it doesn't even look that dirty so weird, so something i've. Never seen live on, camera is the valve popping open and even though this one looks totally clean, it was doing it. So i'm going to rotate this engine and we'll see oh wait a minute yeah there we go the piston just pushes it up.

So it's getting stuck open. What there is our valve coming down, so it didn't snap there. You can see it creeping up right now. There we go wow.

We got to see the valve pop up, so it's not getting stuck when it's trying to open it's getting stuck on the way up when it's trying to close all right. So, let's open the valve back up then. Okay, just like that, i got ta say this: guy doesn't even look that dirty, but we're gon na spray it anyway all right. This has been sitting for about 10-15 minutes.

Let's spin, this around. Okay, all right. I've spun this around quite a few times we're not getting any of the click anymore, so that might have done the trick just like the last time. Yep we're getting nothing all right.

Okay, let's try this one more time. Yeah, it's not going to do it. We're good just need to prime the fuel there. We go sweet, it's back all right, let's get it outside for its maiden voyage and then i got ta get something for the engine: stop it wiper blade and uh.

We are going to do an experiment using water. We're gon na dump a bunch of water into the engine, while it's running to see if we can clean up these pistons and valves, yeah, okay, so there's a couple ways your valves can be stuck. The carbon can build up on the face of the valve and then, when it seats in the head, it gets stuck that way or you can actually have carbon build up on the valve stem and get stuck in the guide area. So i think that's what we're seeing here and the reason for that, especially on older engines, is because a little bit of oil is gon na get past the valve seal and when it does and it gets super hot.

It kind of cakes up and turns into carbon, so we are gon na treat that right at the source, uh with some engine flush, so we're gon na pour this in and you're supposed to run the engine for about 15 minutes or so. While this goes around and cleans up, all of the gunk and that'll work out perfectly with the fact that we have to go for our first test drive right now and we're going to be injecting a bunch of water in this engine to clean up the valves. Also so, while we're doing all that we'll have this stuff working for us - and you guys have seen me - use this stuff a few times the performance improver also by amsoil. So i am an amsoil dealer by the way and you guys can get 25 off of everything by signing up as one of my preferred customers and i'll leave a link down below.

But this is gon na run through the fuel, injectors, clean them out and also clean up the intake valves as well, because this isn't direct injected. So we are getting fuel spraying directly on the valve, with the engine flush and some water. I think we might have this under control all right here we go here. We go maiden voyage.

We have brakes. I like brakes. Brakes are nice, let's roll all right, so this is my first time ever driving an e30 bmw shifted into second third. Okay, i think.

That's fourth right there, so the transmission feels really nice and it runs beautifully. It's very smooth, let's see, comes to a stop. We like that and let's give it a little bit of a hole shot. Oh ho-ho-ho, it doesn't have that much power whoa, i got ta say it chips in the second nicely, though, and it shifted at 6 500 rpm cool.

The steering feels great. The previous owner said. He had replaced pretty much everything in the front end uh for the steering. He just needed an alignment, and it's not even that bad, but this car is tight and we're cruising man.

I know the e30 is like just coveted amongst bmw enthusiasts. It's just supposedly a really well-built car that handles really nicely. I mean this is my first experience and i like it. This is really nice it just.

It feels so quality and all of the gauges all the buttons and everything are just in the right place. They just face you perfectly and this interior is so so beautiful. I'm sitting on this nice comfy wool right now and if you guys saw the last video you know what's underneath these seat covers, it is beautiful, beautiful, bmw, vinyl. I don't know if this is actually leather, i'm not sure, but it is perfect.

Pristine, like it's, never been sat on ever all right. So supposedly these handle pretty good. I'd have to agree for an 80s car. This handle is really good.

It shifts beautifully wow wow. This is really nice all right. Let's get it back to the shop where we're gon na start feeding this engine, some water. It runs pretty good right now, but we really need to clean up this carbon.

I was gon na do this anyway, uh before we found another stuck valve so now it makes even more sense to try and get rid of as much carbon as possible. This is some really good water to drink and to clean out this engine. So if you guys were here for the last e30 video, you know, we tried cleaning the combustion chamber in the pistons with seafoam, so we fed it into the intake just like this with a funnel and it got in there and it kind of cleaned some stuff Up but it was still pretty nasty now, an old trick that i've never tried before is to literally use normal water, and the idea here is that it's going to vaporize and steam clean the combustion chamber, so the engine is warmed up. We drove it around.

It's nice and hot: that's when you want to do this, so i'm going to feed this engine water, probably at a pace about like that, so not enough to hydro, lock it or anything like that, and i'm going to vary the throttle at the same time and We're going to hope that this water will get in there and some steam power will do its thing and we'll bore scope it of course, and see what happens so anyway with that here goes nothing all right, so this thing doesn't run the best with a massive Vacuum leak. Okay, i don't know if you can hear me, but i'm gon na keep this running and for water. At the same time, we don't want to kill it. You guys ever seen that video on youtube it's from a long time ago, with a guy who starts his uh, it looks like a big block.

Chevy or something carbureted on an engine stand he's just sitting there smoking a cigarette yeah. It was his first start he's doing the throttle uh anyway um. This is nothing like that, but i'm out of water now so i've gone through. I think 20 ounces of water - and this is just a balancing act - pouring a little bit of water.

The engine kind of wants to die, so you give it a break rev it up and go back and forth. Uh i'm gon na do another one and then we're gon na bore scope, we'll pull it back in the shop and see what it looks like. Okay, guys so i've pulled out three spark plugs and we are gon na go ahead and see what the water did to the piston. So first, this is what they looked like before all pretty much looked this bad, the carbon was pretty nasty and caked up, and this is really nice.

I am seriously impressed the sea. Foam really didn't do much of anything, and i think if we kept on going with this water, this would be super clean. So if you look in the middle, that's the piston around. It is still some carbon, but the steam cleaning of the carbon seems to have been working wow.

Maybe the old timers do know what they're talking about here. Look at that look at that look at this piston. This is great, i mean, obviously it's still dirty, but for not having taken the engine apart or anything and for using water free water. This is really nice.

I am seriously impressed all right. Well, i drained the oil that was pretty uneventful. It was kind of black, but nothing, nothing too bad, and this is our last court of the amsoil 540 synthetic. So now she has the good stuff and opening and closing this hood never gets old watch this bam.

I think every car should have a hood like that. Okay, so what do you guys think of the results of steam cleaning the carbon from the inside of the engine? I thought the results were great and i'm gon na try a gallon slowly and see how clean we can get this. So if you guys want to follow along on updates of the inside of the e30 motor, then make sure to follow me at legit streetcars, on instagram and on facebook, and i got to tell you guys what i'm going to be doing with this car eventually. So if you saw the reveal you know, i was given this car for free, and i said i was going to do something charitable with it.

I don't just take free cars, fix them up, sell them and keep the money. So i'm going to be donating 100 of the proceeds from the sale of this car to an ms charity, so i have to look it over with a fine-tooth comb. Do a bunch of math figure out exactly what this car needs and see how much i want to put into it so right now. This is going to be kind of a budget flip project because we want to maximize the amount of money we get for the charity.

So if i dump like you, know ten thousand dollars into this car and then we don't get it all back from the sale. That's not going to be good. The money could be better spent by just donating it to the ms charity directly, which i'll probably do anyway. So it is a four-door automatic with 175 000 miles on it.

So i'm not 100 sure if it's worth kind of stripping it down cutting in new metal to the body painting it replacing. You know every single part in the world. If it was a manual, a two-door or an m3, it might be worth it. But let me know in the comment section: what do you guys think this car is worth now that it runs and drives nicely versus if it was painted and basically minted out, considering the spec that it is so i have a lot to think about over the Next few days got to do a bunch of math, but i'm sure we'll get somewhere.

Quick and the market is super hot right now. So if i do go through a full-blown restoration, it takes months and months and months and months and then the market tanks. It could be bad news and we have a lot of projects to get to as well. I got two new cars out back, i'm not even going to show you guys until i get the v12 running and driving a lot of stuff going on on the channel.

Um and anyway, i'm rambling now so with that, i hope you guys really enjoyed this video if you did give it a big thumbs up share the video subscribe if you're new and, most importantly, have an awesome day i'll catch all of you in the next video You.