This is my twin turbo, v12 mercedes amg engine, and this is my 2005 cl65 amg and i've kind of forgotten about this, because it's just been floating up here for months, but today we reunite these long lost friends and actually it'll be today, for you guys, but It'll be a few days for me, but either way by the end of this video. This will be up there. No actually we're going to lower the body onto this, so this will be down there and we're going to start this engine up in this video. That's the plan right now and if you guys missed the last v12 engine, video i'll link it down below, but i had a very skilled, tig welder out here.

He welded the head right here, it's amazing! So now i can put everything back together. On top of it and start to wrap this whole thing up, i'm happy i'm excited and all that good stuff, but i'm also very nervous because i've been doing this over the course of a few months and if any one little thing is messed up on a Big v12 engine like this, you pretty much have to lower it or drop the entire engine out. So i do not want to have to do that. So i'm going to take my time we're going to do this properly.

Like we've been doing. This may be kind of a long video, so you know the deal sit back, relax, grab multiple beverages and multiple snacks this time and enjoy the show and like always, we're getting right into this. We are going to start off by replacing this power, steering hose line and there's nothing wrong with the original, except if this does go, you pretty much have to lower everything. It's pretty.

It looks like it's impossible to get to, so i'm just going to go ahead and replace this now i don't ever want to do it later. It's amazing how easy some jobs are with the engine out and how impossible they are with the engine in it's. Just not even close, it's like you could do something in two minutes with the engine out. It might take you 12 hours.

If you try to do it with the engine, i'm not 100 sure. If you can do this job with the engine in the car or not, you might just have to remove the subframe or something like that, but just these two screws i removed would be directly under the exhaust and there'd be shields here and everything i mean you'd. Definitely be working blind, then you have one connection at the rack to get to which even right now is just really hard really hard to do so. Anyway.

V12 life yeah. This definitely seems like a drop, the subframe type of situation. If this thing was in all right got the old pry bar. Oh my gosh, this thing is on there nope.

I should have done this hose when the turbos weren't there and before i replaced the knock sensor everything's in the way. This is a mess. Okay. After a ton of struggle, it's finally loose no idea how i actually did that.

Okay, there we go ah losing fluid all right. Here's our new one snake it around over here all right, get it started, tightening up the new hose and super easy super easy. You know with the engine out next up. I want to bolt up the ac lines and the abc pump.

That goes right over here, so i got to get this line on first and we are running into an issue. So this port right here on the wisetec surge valve, is sticking out, but no big deal. They give you a nice 90 in the kit, just in case you run into this issue, so i'm gon na go ahead and swap this fitting and we should be good. Okay, our new fitting is on.

I think it's got a point somewhere. There should be good for now i'll, adjust it later, lubricate our new seal, just a little bit, okay, yep, and that clears perfectly all right, all right good to go there done with that ac line, and with that we can swap over the abc pump pulley and If you guys saw the first few videos on this car, you know this thing was leaking really bad, so we're replacing it with a brand new one from fcp euro. Of course, this is one of those parts that their lifetime parts guarantee really comes into play because uh, these are, i think, like twelve thirteen hundred dollars and now it's covered for life. So i still really don't understand how fcp euro covers all of these parts forever, especially knowing how much these euro cars like to break, but they do - and i thank them for that.

Okay, new pump ready to go, and if i'm not mistaken, this is the last part we need to install the belt so we'll have a fully complete accessory drive belt system as soon as this really expensive and heavy part is installed all right. It all starts with this top bolt right here. Look at that! Oh wait, not so fast, not so fast! This does not go there. This one goes down here and this guy goes up here.

This is why i take pictures. I had this little metal bracket thing sitting on the table for so many months. I'm like man, i don't remember where that guy goes and that guy goes right here, so they are not messing around with this abc pump. There's another bracket, a big, thick metal bracket in the back too, that attaches this and uh yeah.

This ain't going nowhere all right, so i have a new o-ring at the end of this line. Give that a nice tighten all right, not too much next up, we're gon na be installing a banjo bolt through this line and this line. At the same time, even though these seals look - okay, i'm replacing them anyway, so this abc pump was on and off hoovy had a shop. I don't think it was wizard, but someone took this pump on and off and uh.

They might have replaced these, but either way for cheap insurance replace all of these seals. It's a pain to get to this with the engine in, as you guys know, common theme here, guys common theme, this engine in there no bueno to work on okay. Let's get this banjo bolt going together here: where does it go over here somewhere? I think yeah that looks about right, so these two get sandwiched together. Here's the big banjo bolt gon na go in here through the bottom and always start this stuff by hand.

You don't want to run the risk of stripping anything out okay, so it's already started, okay, drawing it in nice and easy taking our time. All the o-rings are perfectly seated want to double check for that. Okay, now before we crank down just want to make sure all the lines are ran properly, not hitting anything and as you can see, it's a tight fit, but everything clears perfectly and we have plenty of mounting points like, for example, this one here and this one Here to keep everything exactly in its place, there's another here another here, so no tubes are rubbing. We can go ahead and torque that down some people will have extra nuts and bolts after a project like this, and in my case i'm missing two of them.

I'm missing the nut that holds this line right here and i'm missing the bolt that holds that bracket up. So i was able to reuse an old exhaust manifold stud and nut because i replaced most of them, but for this i am using a nut off my 2001 white ws6 trans am same thread. I think mercedes and pontiac were in cahoots here all right. This is a parts bin special.

Ah, and you may be wondering why didn't this go back on the trans am well. It's simple. I cut the front radiator support out to fit some gigantic fans because of a gigantic turbo, and this guy didn't make it in, and i've saved it ever since i've had this for about 12 years, roughly the amount of time it's going to take me to thread It onto this stud come on now and there we go you've seen it here. First 2001 pontiac trans am ws6 part, holding up an abc hydraulic line on a v12 mercedes.

Totally normal wait a minute. We can't install our new belt just yet. I almost forgot the biggest accessory. We have the massive water cooled alternator, but before that goes on, i want to snake a few of the harnesses in behind the alternator, because i believe i removed the alternator and then disconnected most of the harness behind here.

Okay, let's try this one more time. The last time i discovered the hole in the engine not fun and if i could ever figure out how these gaskets go, that one looks good all right now, it's time for our shiny intake, all right here it is my nice shiny intake. So this was media blasted by fluid motor union in naperville, so it's not painted or anything. This is what the aluminum looks like when it's really clean and it goes down like so all right then take us on.

Let's get some bolts, but before we take care of the top end of my v12 engine, i got ta take care of the top end of my head with some keeps because two out of three men by the age of 35 will experience some form of male Pattern, baldness and all you got ta do to combat. That is a few drops of this on your noggin. That's it and yeah. There's there's an e30 in the background, and this is keeps and keeps makes, treating male pattern, baldness, easy and affordable by keeping everything online.

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It's shipped right to your door. You can keep in contact with your doctor at all times and you really have nothing to lose but more hair on your head. So a big thanks to keeps for continuing to support automotive content creators like myself. Now, let's get back into this v12 and yes, i have an e30 bmw.

This just kind of happened last minute. I've already made a video on this, so if you haven't seen that i'll link it down below as well, i can't wait to tear into that car, but first i need this engine to go vroom. As you can imagine and see, this intake is pretty large and something like 16 bolts or something like that that hold it down pretty crazy. So of course we're starting these all off by hand.

Then we can draw them in nice and easy with the gun and then finish them off with a torque, and these are only eight newton meters and this is an aluminum intake. That is not a lot at all. That's all it takes okay. So, with the intake manifold on, i am installing the factory fuel injectors and i got all new seals for these as well, and these are somewhat temporary.

I just want to get the engine running with the factory fuel system intact, and i just want to put some miles on it. Make sure everything is good, give it a shake down and then we're going to step up our game with this stuff. So we have 60 pound fuel injectors, the adapter harnesses uh. This is an ethanol sensor, because i want to try and run e85 on this v12, and this is a flex fuel kit from victory.

Road performance - and you guys have seen me - install one of these kits on my c63 amg and it worked out really really well and we were able to gain horsepower on that. Naturally aspirated engine. So with this boosted engine, we should see a massive increase, and this kit comes with everything you need to make this work. So all of the harnesses for the new style fuel injectors, just literally everything and it's all plug and play.

It's really really easy and i also had my guys at fluid motor union in naperville illinois weld in some dash six fittings. So you can see the fuel feed there and then we have a return on this side and then we can pop out the schrader valve on the factory side and use that as a return also. So i have these capped off for now. We're just gon na run the factory fuel line right into that fitting on the rail.

That's the factory fitting and we're gon na run the factory injectors as well just as a shakedown, and this is all really easy stuff to replace, even with the engine in the car. So after i know, everything is good with this and we're ready for the dyno and the exhaust is done, we'll upgrade the fuel system and let it rip oh and a money saving trick here. Even though these injectors are temporary, i still wanted to replace the little rubber o-ring seals, because the other ones were kind of dry rotted after 135 000 miles. If you try to get those for a mercedes, v12 they're like five bucks, each or something insane.

But a lot of these fuel injector o-rings are the same. So these are from a 98 5.9 liter jeep grand cherokee limited like the one i had. I knew they would fit. So i went to the store and i think they were like 89 cents, each seal.

So i spent like 24 bucks on seals completely cleared out their shelf, and now we are good to go. We won't run the risk of fuel leaks or anything like that, and it just cost us a little bit over 20 bucks all right here. We go all 12 injectors going in everything is so expensive when you're dealing with a v12 got ta buy more of everything. 12 injectors aren't cheap, also to buy a lot of spark plugs almost 300 in spark plugs, which i think after this rail goes in.

We should just go ahead and install okay injectors installed. Let's do some spark plugs and for spark plugs. I'm going with these ngk rutheniums. Not gon na lie never heard of these before in my life um, but i've used ngks for a lot of boosted applications and i just gave them a call and said i want to go one step colder.

What do you recommend - and this was it so 275 dollars later? I have 24 of these. So not only does this engine have many many cylinders, but they went with a dual plug per cylinder set up like many mercedes at this time had so we have 24 spark plugs 275 dollars just in parts, and i think the tune-up at the dealer on one Of these is like eight nine hundred bucks and really that's just for the plugs plugs are in and torqued i've tightened up our caps for the aftermarket fuel fittings on the rail, and now we have a couple of these brackets here, one there and one like so All right, these are much easier when you use the longer torques get right in there. No problem - and this wouldn't be a big engine project without having to take apart, something you just put back together, which is this shield right here and on the other side, because i forgot the coolant pipes need to go in before that. So i think they go in something like this yeah that looks good.

Now i can get these shields back in zip, some bolts in and we have coolant pipes. So we need these okay. That goes there good. Now.

This is all making sense. I'm like there's no way these things just kind of slide in and sit there. They get bolted in, see. Look at that last one.

There solid, solid, not rubbing on anything super factory, very nice, very nice, and this one goes over yonder like so stay. I got ta say: mercedes doesn't mess around just to hold in vacuum tubes. There are two t30 bolts on each side with big metal brackets. Look at that i mean they don't want these vacuum tubes to go anywhere.

I, like it, go to your home bolt, go to your home, get in there uh, okay, all right i'll. Take you out even more little shield that i already installed just just work. Just do me a favor and just you know it you're gon na eventually get in there. Just give up.

Stop fighting me yeah, see i told you i always win there. We go. Oh, come on shield, just work with me. Dude there we go.

I know i forgot you didn't go in at the right time. No reason to punish me good, look at this table of parts. There's not much left on it, because it's all over here, where it should be. Finally, and now, with these coolant tubes on - and i think this bracket goes there - okay, we can take this big, big mess of harness and coolant tubes and plop it over, and i know this looks really confusing and it kind of is it's going to take me A while to figure out where all this stuff goes, but just simply doing that simply putting the harness over is going to help a lot, because there are a lot of vacuum tubes that i kind of don't remember where they go.

But with this, it's only going to give me a few options of where they can go: everything's gon na kind of like line up, at least in theory. How does this work? I don't remember, okay, that goes there. This go here right here: i'm gon na start, plugging stuff in and uh figuring stuff out, we'll see where this all goes. Okay, so with the harness on top of the engine.

We can now snake this part in through here, and this is why i've left the alternator off thus far, because we have a lot of connectors we can plug in that go behind the alternator it'll, make it much easier. Some of these, i think, are impossible to get to with the alternator there um and then we can get the oil dipstick tube in yeah. This knock sensor, one right here, not sure how you do that with the alternator, and we have our oil level sensor right here: click! Okay, this is secondary air injection. This is a ground this i don't remember, but i'll figure it out.

Where does this go? Oh, this is alternator, this is alternator. Okay, i think that's it. I think we just have two. Then we need to plug in there yep and then we have this behemoth of an alternator.

It's water cooled. I think these are like thirteen hundred dollars, so new seal here new hose right here, and i can't hold this much longer. So actually we have to install the dipstick first and i have a new grommet, of course, so that goes in over here. Okay, now i believe we can get this okay great now.

I believe we get this alternator in and i got to make sure that i don't pinch any of these harnesses and if they end up in the right spot, i think i think it goes something like that. I don't know i don't remember all right. Seal you're. Still good alternator you're still really happy.

Let's get you in here. Okay, everything out of the way make sure the seal is still on it is now. If i can get one of these guys started. That would be great.

I don't have to hold this thing. Anymore. Start start start start start. Let's just do this one too, let's get greedy.

Let's start two and you're started all right cool. Let's take a look at this harness here. Oh, these things have to be snaked in in a specific way, because there's a lot of hot stuff going on here with two turbo chargers, and we want to make sure that the harness isn't uh. Getting close to any of that, i think we're.

Okay, though, i think it goes in the front here away from all that hot stuff yeah that looks good, looks good, good good. Now this dipstick tube, we have to make sure this is seated properly or we'll get an oil leak. I don't want that. One of those things you got to hold it down and then get the bolt started all right.

I like that. I feel good about that. We have another one that goes right here too, which means did i run this harness wrong? Nope see, look at that bam. All right, okay, alternator, is tight.

What else we got here all right. This goes under there over under over and do this one. Last there we go uh, no okay, around the crank come on fresh belt. New tensioner come on now come together.

Two are gon na, be friends for a long time. Okay, what's going on up here? No, it is not right. You come down. Okay! Is that it we all good.

Okay, that looks about right, don't really remember, but i don't see any other way. It goes. I, like it, i'm gon na roll with it new belt. New tensioner pulleys are good new water pump new abc pump.

This was replaced the ac compressor like five years ago according to day code. This, i hope, never goes bad yeah. We have our accessory drive um. Let's do secondary air injection kind of complete the front of this before we bolt up the secondary air injection pump.

I just want to give it a little test with the power probe and the e30 battery. Oh yeah. It definitely passes the old paper towel test and i was a little worried about this because it was a little grimy and these do fail. But this seems to be working well and the purpose of the secondary air injection pump is to literally blow air into the exhaust before the catalytic converter.

And it does this at cold start because at cold start the engine's computer is commanding a rich mixture. So there's going to be a lot of unburnt hydrocarbons and the catalytic converters are still cold, so this injects oxygen before the catalytic converter, aids in heating them up aids in their efficiency, which burns off the hydrocarbons and reduces our emissions at cold start. So a very important piece of equipment for modern engines and on this particular one. It bolts up right here, all right.

There we go and secondary air is done, and then it's just a matter of plugging stuff in i've got all the injectors plugged in right now got some cam sensors. We can plug in all right and then i just have a few sensors that i'm replacing like the intake air temperature sensor and not that there was anything wrong with this, i'm just being a little overly cautious and just replacing old stuff. This is a boost pressure sensor as well, and it goes right there just replacing old sensor stuff that may fail down the road while we're in here ground wire goes here: okay, good to go there all right. I know this basically looks the same to you, guys, a gigantic mess of hoses and wires and vacuum tubes.

But it's about an hour and a half later and i have completed the connection of all these little vacuum lines. There are a lot of them. There are a lot of little valves as well, and these things are kind of snaked all over the engine. This one goes all the way over there they're all over the place, and i did take some pictures.

But let me show you what was my saving grace here? Not spending even more time doing this, and that is old video footage, so this was b-roll footage. Basically, this was sped up. I think in episode three of this series, so we put some copyright free music to this and you guys just saw me kind of zip by it. But this is real time and me removing this right here.

Just saved me a ton of time, because i could see this guy goes there and uh there. We go we're gon na disconnect that that goes right here so anyway, having this video footage, big lifesaver, with this spaghetti bowl of vacuum, tubing all right guys. It's throttle body time we are getting there. We are wrapping this up soon.

The body will be coming down, got a new gasket from mercedes. This goes like, so all right got the bolts in okay. That goes there throttle body's on and the throttle body is torqued. There we go, and now we have the throttle body connection to the top mount intercoolers there.

We go all right time to put on my mislabeled heat shield. This is not the left side, it was a long day when i took this thing apart and labeled everything, but you can't mess this one up and uh. I've looked over everything about 12 times because with this heat shield, in once, we put the downpipe in after that not gon na, be any room in here to fix anything. So i've checked over all my connections and we are in pretty good shape.

I hope famous last words all right guys. This is where we're at it is looking very, very complete. I have the shields on right there. Basically, everything is on, except for the exhaust, so i'm gon na hit that right now, but i will be taking the intercoolers and that left side coil pack off.

That's how i dropped it before this stuff. Just gets too close to the frame right there and you can put this stuff on very easily with the engine in the car, so something i wanted to show you guys is to always test fit stuff like this, because this turbo was not clocked properly so had I put it up in the car uh before test fitting this pipe to this intercooler i'd have been in a world of trouble because it's very difficult to reclock the turbo with it in the car. I don't know how many times i've said: something's really difficult or impossible with it in the car, but this is definitely it so you have to loosen up these 10 millimeters all the way around all the way in there. It's a pain just like this, but these turbos were sent out.

They have larger compressor wheels, so they didn't put these on perfectly. It was off by like that much you'd never be able to tell, but this didn't fit now. It does just test fitting everything in general is a good idea, just making sure that you don't have any hose that are going to be pinched, underneath something that you can't see later and then with it all complete. I can kind of go back here, make sure all these connections are in good shape, everything's tucked away like it should and uh yeah we're good so exhaust time and then she's going up.

I keep on saying that no then she's going down we're dropping the body down on this. This is staying right here before i install these downpipes. I just want to make sure nothing's getting in the way of the wastegate actuators, and we can also see the flapper there fully close and seat. That's important, okay, we're good there.

Let's try the other one see that one's getting a little close to that line. So i might just kind of move that out of the way a little bit, but it's clearing and that's sealing up perfectly so we're going to be good. I'm going to move that line just a little bit down and that'll. Just give me a little bit more peace of mind.

All right factory exhaust is going on, and i will eventually do something with the exhaust i plan on bringing it over to fluid motor union in naperville illinois. They did the c63 exhaust. If you guys remember that we've done a lot of custom fab work for me, they're amazing - i want this done perfectly what's nice is there are three mounting points outside of the v-band flange for this exhaust, so it's only gon na go in one way. If everything lines up this engine uses the beefiest v-bands, these things are solid.

There'll, never be a reason to replace these, which is great, there's so many v-bands out there that are just so flimsy. You got to replace them and then they charge you an arm and a leg for them, but these things are just cast iron, just beasts, i guess for 180 000 or whatever this car costs. That's what you get. You definitely don't get an oil o-ring that lasts forever, that's for sure, but you get good v-bands and they only go on one way.

I was like i'll put these on in a way. That'll make it easier. If i need to undo these later nope, it's notched on the top, you have no choice, but to do what mercedes wants you to do. This is the last part i'm putting on with the engine out the driver's side.

Catalytic converter, slash, downpipe and then that's it. Then it's going up. Am i excited right now? Yes, i'm excited also nervous. I've had this thing apart for so long anything can happen.

Okay, all right break time. I think it's a beast. It's looking good, though it just started storming it's getting bad out there, and this is ready to go in coincidence. I think not, i think not it's only fitting that this engine gets put back together, random bungee cord and installed on a day like today, so with that here she is in all its glory.

We have the entire exhaust attached. Everything is waiting to be plugged in. Let's lower this body, ah all right, i have eugene at the helm, working the lift eugene. If you will do the honors, please keep going keep going.

Okay, stop! This is why i didn't put the uh coil pack in it was hitting the steering shafts go ahead. Eugene, okay, stop! Okay, steering shaft is clear, started to hear some other crunching. Let's investigate the crunch: okay, you're, looking good, looking looking really good! Okay! Stop! Let's just take a look around so far, so good knock on real wood. The subframe is only about an inch away from meeting the body and it's only four bolts that holds it in so let's do it all right.

So here we are that gap right there keep going. Okay, stop there all right guys. I want to show you a real world problem here, see this bolt hole into the body of the car. It's not lining up with the subframe, because after working on this for so long stuff moves, i had to move the engine a little bit to get to an ac line bolt.

But they give you these little rubber bushings here that go into holes into the frame and you can use those to manipulate the subframe, see that so now we can move this guy over and get that started. Okay, we got the bolts started. Go ahead, go down a little more all right. That's it we're down.

Okay, i've tightened up all the bolts for the subframe. This should all be one now eugene. Let's do this! Oh man, oh man, it's been a long time coming a very long time coming. Oh, this is beautiful.

My floor, hello floor, hello, jack stands wow all right. I don't want the trans hanging down too long. Let me get the scissor lift and we'll get that cross member on it couldn't get underneath there. There was no room, alright guys, trans cross member is installed, the exhaust is connected and there are about 500 other little things.

I have to do. I've connected the oil cooler lines here to the front oil cooler. So, to get this thing driving, there's a ton left to do, but if we remove the serpentine belt, we can at least get this engine started so that we can check everything over. So if we remove this belt, it's not going to spin the abc pump or the water pump, so that means i don't have to fill this thing up with many, many gallons of really expensive fluid the abc fluid is super expensive and it's got to go through A bleeding procedure we have the intercooler system has coolant.

The radiator has its own separate coolant, so tons of fluids here to worry about if we connect that belt. So i just want to hear this thing run at this point: make sure everything is perfect and then i'll wrap everything up in the next video. So we can go for our first drive, so we do need engine oil, though, and for that i'm just using the cheapest oil. I could find at the auto parts store, because i'm just gon na run this for a few minutes with this oil and then drain it out and fill it up again.

So i'm burning like 50 bucks in oil, but it's well worth it. I just want to make sure everything is cleaned out. We have the cams coated, they have a break-in coating as well, so we'll run this and then do an oil change and then probably do an oil change shortly after that. So all right, we have our oil, but i do need to install this coil.

So we can get this thing running and installing the engine without this was so much easier. It kept on getting caught on the steering column, and these coils aren't too bad to do with the engine in the car. You got to be able to do the spark plugs for maintenance and mercedes was thinking hey. Let's leave one thing that they can do without having to remove the engine.

Thankfully it was the coil all right time for the intercoolers. Luckily, they give you a little bleeding port on these intercoolers. Otherwise this would be a nightmare to bleed. So it's at the highest point, so you get all the air out and i guess we're gon na find out the limits of these things.

Once we hit the dyno to see if there would be any improvement with going with a bigger intercooler, but that have to be something totally custom, no one makes an intercooler system for the m275. I think they did a long time ago and the company went out of business or something like that. This is always a total pain to get these three things installed, because this is hard. This is a hard plastic piece.

There we go all right. We got the intake boxes going on we're so close right now, guys so close. There are so many things to plug in. Even the intake box has a sensor, i'm not entirely sure what it does, but it's there, okay intake box number.

Two, all right. We have engine oil. Everything is connected. All the electrical connectors are connected.

I think that's it guys we're gon na go connect the battery. I have had a charging for the last few days and that's hopefully all she wrote okay here we go, we have lights in the trunk, wake up cl! Yes, yes, good afternoon, it's been a while cl65, oh man, i forget how nice this interior is and it's turning into a beautiful day before we start it. Okay, all right all right guys! This is it. I have the belt off.

I've pulled the fuel pump fuse because i just want to crank it over a little bit. Get the oil circulated, get everything lubricated and then we'll throw that back in and fire it up. So with that go ahead, eugene all right turn it off turn off. Okay! Well, it started uh.

I thought i had the fuel pump disabled. We tested it a bunch of times, but it could have been some leftover stuff in the rail because we had primed it before accidentally. So all right, all right. Let's uh! Let's get rid of the fuel all right, so um we just had residual in the rail.

So i just cracked, the rail - and you know the fuel came out, so we should be good now, but i heard a noise uh that didn't sound good when it was cranking. It sounded fine, but when it fired for that split second, it sounded like some chattering going on now, keep in mind the tensioner is brand new, so nothing's been oiled really properly yet, so that's why i wanted to crank it so anyway, um go ahead. Eugene take two on cranking: it: okay, cool, let's uh! Let's do that again, all right! We let the starter cool off go ahead, do one more time! Okay, so sounds pretty normal. It cranks like normal um.

So we've done that three times i'm hoping that's enough to have kind of primed the oiling system, so i'm gon na pop that fuse in crossing my fingers guys crossing my fingers. I did not like that noise could have just been the whole oiling thing cross. Your fingers too, please, oh thank god. Okay, that ticking noise went away.

The ticking noise went away. Okay, i was a little nervous. All right, eugene, give it a little tiny bit of throttle all right cool. This is good.

All right shut it off it's alive. It's alive, the v12 runs it runs. Well doesn't make any weird noises. Oh man, i got ta go fire this up.

I got ta, do it myself, so we're gon na have the world record of lights on here it's a little shaky. It's got oil in there. The fuel still needs to circulate it's old and it's got a little misfire for sure. So we don't want to run this too long.

We have oil, just no coolant, which is fine for a little bit. It's not going to hurt anything. It's definitely misfiring smells kind of fuelly right yeah. It smells really rich, really rich, all right, shine it down so yeah.

This thing is running very, very rich right now. I wonder if we're not firing on one of the banks, we ran into this issue on the ride home. If you guys saw the road trip ride, that's what was going on. We were running on probably half the cylinders because of bad fuel.

It's possible we're only running on half the cylinders right now, something's wrong for sure, but engine wise, it's good! It's good! I'm gon na lift it up right now. I didn't see any oil leaking out of the bottom or anything. That's really the main goal in this video is to make sure the engine itself is okay. We can fix a misfire, no problem.

I don't think that's going to be anything too catastrophic at this point, so let me lift it up. Let's take a look. Well, we're not going to be able to tell too much with it running for that amount of time, but nothing is gushing out and in the next video when i run the engine longer and wrap everything up and we go for a cruise i'll. Take a look at everything once more, but i don't suspect, we'll have any issues there.

I pretty much replaced every single seal that you can get to with the heads off. We have rtb in the right places. Everything is torqued properly, so we should be good to go. I think the passenger side bank isn't firing at all and we have over 200 on this side yeah that side's got to be dead.

All right guys, i'm going to end the video here, i'm starting to take stuff apart, it's getting kind of late. I got to go back in um, so in the next one, we'll figure out why this thing isn't running properly, we'll wrap everything up and we'll go for our first drive. So if you guys enjoyed this video, if you're happy to see the cl65 back on the channel, give this video a thumbs up share the video subscribe if you're new and most importantly, have an awesome day i'll catch. All of you in the next video you.