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My good friend was quoted $3,000 to perform every maintenance item on his 2014 C300 4-Matic from the Mercedes Dealer. This included items like spark plugs, the B Service, a transmission service, and more. I couldn't let him pay that so I completed it all for $650 and show you how to do the same. What you're about to see applies to many different Mercedes models. The master list of cars that share use the M276 engine is down below but you just need to know that this applies to you if you have the 722.9 7-speed transmission that came out around 2005 or the M276 engine that came out in 2010 in some areas of the world and 2014 in the United States. The air filters are different on the twin-turbo version of the engine but the spark plug replacement is basically the same procedure on the naturally aspirated and twin-turbo M276. So you could have anything from a C Class to an ML to an S Class and many parts of this video will apply to you.
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2011–2013 W221 S 350/S 350 4MATIC
2011–2014 W212 E 300 BlueEFFICIENCY/E 300 BlueEFFICIENCY 4MATIC
2011–2014 W218 CLS 350 BlueEFFICIENCY
2011–2014 W204 C 350 / C 350 4MATIC
2011–2014 W204 C 350 BlueEFFICIENCY / C 350 BlueEFFICIENCY 4MATIC
2012–2014 W204 C 300 4MATIC (US/Canada)
2012–2016 W212 E 350 BlueEFFICIENCY / E 350 BlueEFFICIENCY 4MATIC
2012–2016 W212 E 400 HYBRID
2012–2015 W166 ML 350 BlueEFFICIENCY 4MATIC
2012–2015 X204 GLK 350 4MATIC BlueEfficiency
2013–2015 X204 GLK 350
2013–2017 W222 S 400 HYBRID
2011–2015 R172 SLK 350 BlueEFFICIENCY
2013–2014 W212 E 400/E 400 4MATIC
2014–2020 W222 S 320 (China)
2014–2019 X166 GL 450 / GLS 450
2014–2017 W222 S 500 PLUG–IN HYBRID
2014–2015 W218 CLS 400/CLS 400 4MATIC
2015–2019 W166 AMG GLE 43 4MATIC
2015–2021 W205 C 400 4MATIC
2015–present X253 AMG GLC 43 4MATIC
2015–2017 W205 C 450 AMG 4MATIC
2015–2017 W166 ML 400 / GLE 400 4MATIC
2016–present BAIC BJ90 (an SUV from Chinese brand BAIC based on the second generation Mercedes-Benz GL-Class)
2016–2017 W166 GLE 450 AMG 4MATIC
2016–2018 W166 GLE 500 e / GLE 550 e (US) 4MATIC
2016–2021 W205 AMG C 43 4MATIC
2016–2018 W213 E 400 4MATIC
2016–2018 W213 AMG E 43 4MATIC
2018–2020 W222 S 560 e
2019–2020 W213 E 450 4MATIC
2015–2017 W222 S 400 4MATIC
2015–2016 W212 E 400/E 400 4MATIC
2015–2017 C218 CLS 400/CLS 400 4MATIC
2017–2018 W213 E 400 4MATIC
2015–2017 W222 Maybach S 400 4MATIC

Welcome to legit street cars, and today in the legit street quarters, we have this a daily driven, 2014 c300 4matic. This car has 40 000 miles and it's equipped with the naturally aspirated direct injected 3.5 liter v6 designated the m276. It also has the 7-speed automatic transmission known as the 722.9, and this car is also owned by a very good friend of mine, a very good lawyer friend of mine, who covered the closing on legit street quarters as a favor as a gift for buying the building And then shortly thereafter was quoted about three thousand dollars to do practically every maintenance item on his car, and i i just can't let him pay that much so in this video i'm going to do everything for about 650 in parts and i'm going to show you Guys at home how to do this as well, because this engine and transmission combo was used in many different mercedes makes for about 10 years, or so it's still being used today. So, there's a very good chance, you own one of these cars, so this video applies to you and you can save a ton of money doing all this stuff at home.

All right. So here is our table of parts. We have a couple of specialty tools over here that aren't necessary. So i'm going to show you a couple of alternatives when we get to that point, but i'm going to break this down by service, so we're going to start off with a b service and if you own a mercedes, you know what that is.

You have your a service one year, your b service, the next back to the a and so on, and these services are based around a synthetic oil change. A b service at the dealer is right around 550, but we're gon na do it for about 200. service b exceeded by 85 days. That is my fault.

I have been telling my friend that i could do this service for a few months since i bought the shop practically. So that is my fault. He actually does maintain his cars and he has an older sl as well. It's really nice, okay! So, while we're in here, i'm gon na reset the maintenance indicator, so we'll go to position one and then we're gon na hit phone and okay at the same time, hold it all right and then we'll just go down to assist, plus okay, full service confirm full Service service carried out not yet, but yes cannot be undone here we go there we go.

We are reset all right here. She is the m276 engine. Now this is the naturally aspirated version. They did come out with a twin turbo version of this engine that they're still using today, but everything i'm doing to the engine is still going to apply whether you have this or the twin turbo car.

So let's go ahead and remove this beauty cover and we can get to the oil filter, so it's always best to remove the oil filter before you drain the oil. So you make sure you get all of it out and to do that you need an oil filter. Cap wrench, so you guys have seen me use my factory mercedes oil filter cap wrench in all my other videos, but i forgot it at home. Working on the twin turbo v12, so i ordered this guy and i just got a whole set off of amazon i'll link it down below and they work honestly, just as just as well, it's just a chunk of metal that fits around an oil filter housing, not A big deal grab your rag make sure not to drip anywhere, and here we are on our way up, i'm going to remove the wheels to inspect the brakes and later we're going to be performing a brake, fluid flush.
But i really like these sockets from sonic. They have a plastic sleeve that way, you don't scratch the finish on your wheels and i'm going to be leaving links to all the tools that you see in this video in the description box. A big part of the bee service is a major inspection, so we're going to be looking at brake pad life and rotor wear and, as you can see, we still have plenty of meat on the pads. Now we would measure the rotor if i thought it was close, but these things look to be in great condition, so we'll skip that part, and we just have to take a nice visual, look at all of the steering and suspension components.

I don't suspect any issues at all, since this thing drives straight as an arrow and feels really tight. Like a brand new car. It only has 40 000 miles, but we're still going to look over everything so make sure that your struts and your shocks in the rear aren't leaking you're going to want to feel around the spring. Find the end of the spring, which is right in here and just make sure that there are no cracks in the springs.

Take a look at your sway bar links, make sure they are nice and tight, and the boots aren't torn as expected. The rear brakes are in even better conditions, since the front do most of the braking, and this shock looks to be dry. We can actually see the spring top to bottom here and we can see there are no cracks either and we're just doing a nice visual on things like bushings that sway bar bushing looks excellent. There is a control arm, bushing i'll use a little flashlight to look in there and that's about it from up here, just looking over brake lines and hoses as well make sure nothing is damaged or leaking.

Now all mercedes have a decent amount of plastic covers on the bottom and they're just held in by a few eight millimeters, and by a few i mean probably like 15.. Okay there's that so that's the only cover you need just to drain the oil. But we need to take this guy off to drain the coolant and this one off to do our transmission service and get a proper inspection all right. So i know i've ragged on the dealership a lot in some of my earlier videos and some of their pricing.

I mean come on, we all know it's ridiculous. Where do you go if you want to spend the most money on your car? You go to the dealer, but i don't fault anyone who doesn't work on cars, who doesn't have a garage and maybe has a warranty. They just don't want to mess with it. These cars can be intimidated.

I don't fault people for doing that, and trust me. The dealership, has plenty of business. All of my friends are absolutely swamped, so these videos are meant for diy guys. That's why you're watching my channel with that it's time for a little bit of maintenance for myself with keeps because two out of three men before the age of 35 will experience some form of male pattern.
Baldness, i'm one of those guys and i'm doing something about it. So keeps is a subscription service and what i love about them is they make treating male pattern baldness easy and affordable like a boosted ls by keeping everything online, and it really is as easy as a few drops on your head now. It typically takes between four and six months to start seeing results. So the sooner you guys get started the better and that's really easy too you're just gon na hop online consult with a real doctor from the comfort of your own home, come up with a game plan and then keeps is shipped discreetly to your house automatically and The best part is, if you guys, go to keeps.com legit you're gon na save 50 off your first order.

So if this is something you've been thinking about for a while, now would be a great time to start, and i just want to say a big thanks to keeps for keeping my hair, where it should be on my head and for continuing to support automotive content Creators like myself now, let's get back to some more c300 maintenance. Okay, so while we're draining every last little bit of oil from the engine, i'm just gon na continue on with the inspection. So we're just looking everything over for leaks and you know sometimes you'll see stuff like this. This is just considered seepage.

A car's warranty wouldn't even cover any kind of repair on something like that. So don't worry about stuff like this. You can just clean it off. Monitor it write it down, so you know where to look next time, not really much to do there, we're going to be inspecting the flex discs and we already did no cracks.

So those are good they're made of rubber, so they can crack uh. The transfer cases on these can leak as well. This one looks to be dry again. You can see something here.

That's really nothing nothing at all to worry about, and then the exhaust system looks to be in excellent condition. Well, you know, except for parts like this, but we're not going to touch that there's no repair needed. It's sealed perfectly. The differentials rarely leak on these newer mercedes, this flex disc, is in excellent condition as well and we're just going around taking a look at bushings.

You might see a little bit of flaking there. That's nothing we're looking for cracks in the rubber, which there are none on that bushing, and this one i can tell is in good shape too anyway, with that we are done. Draining oil good to the last drop. Doesn't really apply here, we're good enough to seal this up and just make sure to use a new washer with your drain plug and we're going to go ahead and torque this down to 22 foot-pounds.
There we go and before we fill it up with oil, i have to show you an excellent and free resource that you can all use at amsoil.com. So you just put in what type of vehicle you're working on and it will tell you how many quarts you need and the drain plug torque spec. You can get your oil filter from there. You can get everything from there and they'll.

Tell you how much coolant to put in and for every fluid they will give you the capacity. This is totally free, whether you buy amsoil products or not, okay. So it's best to let this kind of drain for a while. Let me just pull it out.

There is a large black o-ring right here. We need to replace just like that and you install the new one which will come in any higher quality oil filter. Some of the cheap ones don't come with this, but you really should replace it and then we're just popping it in just like that. Okay, now we're just going to go ahead and screw the housing back in, and this has a torque spec written right on it.

25 newton meters now with the drain plug and this oil filter cap. If you've been doing this for a while you'll get the feeling of it, you don't need to torque it every time. But if you're new to working on cars, not a bad idea to start torquing, so you just get a feeling of sometimes how little you need to torque something. That's it.

Some people just go nuts and turn this guy all the way over here and you can crack these plastic caps all right. So you guys who have been around for a while know that i am an amsoil dealer. There are about 286 of you guys out there who have used my link down below and signed up as one of my preferred customers, because then you get 25 off making this just as affordable as any of the stuff you're gon na get at the store anyway, And it's shipped right to your house: okay, so just like that our synthetic oil change and our inspection is complete. Obviously i looked over belts and hoses, but right now we're going to stay up top and we're going to knock out the spark plugs.

This is uh. 760 at the dealership and we're going to do it for less than 100.. Actually, the entire spark plug kit from my friends at fcp euro is only 65 that includes all six of the factory bosch plugs. You get plenum seals as well and the tool that you must have so this is a 14 millimeter thin wall spark plug socket.

You got to have one of these. I have one for my 335i. It fits many different cars as well, but i needed one here at legit street quarters, so we got the whole kit from fcp euro. I'm not exactly sure how fcp euro still does that lifetime parts replacement guarantee, but they do - and i love them so with that.

We need to remove this plenum. We got to get the air box off the computer over there and then the plenum and then we can get to the spark plugs. It sounds intimidating, but it's really not that bad all right. So we have a couple of e10s for the air box.
Then we have to remove the connector for the intake air temperature sensor. So click up the little gray tab and it just pulls right out. Now we don't have the traditional worm style, clamp that you would use a flathead screwdriver for or a little socket. So you got these and you're just going to get a little screwdriver.

Stick it right in there, and these can be reused. I'll show you how we do that a little bit later and it just pulls out there and we're just going to slide this air box right out. Next, we have to remove the engine's computer, so we have a couple of large connectors and they just pull off. Like so, okay there's a little zip tie in there that makes life a lot easier.

If you cut it we'll replace that later there we go, and it's tempting to cut these little zip ties as well, but you don't have to there are just little connectors. You can pry off save yourself a couple of factory, zip ties there we go and we just pop out the entire computer just like that all right, so i've never actually done the spark plugs on an m276 - and i was talking to one of my friends, my Dealership friends about me making this video and he's like you, don't have to take the plenum off. We don't take the plenum off. You could totally skip that.

I'm like really. I think i'm just going to take it off anyway, and now i'm looking in here and i'm like yeah, i think the dealership mentality is kicking in here. I'm not going to take the plenum off, there's really no reason other than it would be easier to get the plugs out. It's not like we're doing it, because the seals have failed or anything like that.

So if anything, you're adding a level of complexity that you kind of don't need to do hey, we just checked our oil right in the middle, we're perfect, so we're going to get sneaky. With this, i just removed the brake booster vacuum line right here and the dipstick just because it gives us a little bit more room to this coil and, let's see what happens all right. So i'm going to start off with what i believe to be the most difficult spark plug to get to, and it may just be these two on this side that require the plenum to come off. So there we go.

Connector is off on that not too bad with a little flat head. Okay, that's going bye-bye all right, so i have the connector off right here and then it just looks like two e10s to get this coil pack off all right. So i'm sneaking on in here really not doing too much sneaking it's it's just it's pretty wide open. Okay, there are the two bolts there and i grab the coil bolts before we drop them all right.

We should just be able to pull this coil up up and at them. Okay, it's coming come on coil, it's hard to get a good grip, but we will get it there. We go all right. There is the coil and here's the wire all right cool.
Well, it's definitely tight in there. You can't even really see the spark plug. I have the socket on it right now, there's a swivel at the end of this extension as well. So this is tight, but we're going to get it, and this is definitely the hard side.

If we can do that, one, we can definitely do them all and the passenger side's a cake walk compared to the driver's side. I think i can make life much easier if i remove this one bracket right here, all right now i can get straight on the spark plug. Don't even need a swivel. I can't get the power ratchet in here, but that's okay, because i got this little ratchet.

Love this little guy, it's fine tooth. It gets in everywhere, so once you've broken something free like a spark plug, you can take it out in short order with this little ratchet. All right - and here is our spark plug. We got the hardest one out and it looks to be in perfect condition, so these are due at 50 000 miles.

The car only has 40, but since it's in for everything else, we're just gon na knock these out, but this means we don't have to take this plenum off, which saves you a step and a few dollars in seals. No big deal um, but uh yeah pretty excited about this. This should go fairly quick. Now, oh and as you can see, these bosch plugs are identical down to the blue stripes, so mercedes just has them take away bosch, double platinum for a little star, all right.

So we're going in in reverse order, i'm not going to show you every single one of these that was by far the hardest one to do, but just know this. We really need to pay attention to the torque spec on these plugs. I realize it's a pain to get a torque wrench in here, but it is possible and we're just torquing these down to 23 newton meters. There we go.

This is an aluminum head, so you want to make sure you torque it so it doesn't get stripped out and now that it's torqued, we know the spark plug, is clocked properly as well, and you want to do these plugs on just a slightly warm engine. Don't burn yourself, alright driver side is all done and i'm just getting greedy over here. This side has so much room. I didn't even need to pull the connectors from the coils and we can easily get to the spark plug, so i do believe the requirements of removing the plenum according to the mercedes instructions is probably just to get to that back one, but it was pretty easy.

Oh, these are too easy and new plug going. In always start these by hand if you're gon na use any kind of power tool, and then i slow down at the end because we don't want to over torque. So we got this guy these little guys. We don't need to torque, not very important, just give them a little snug, don't snap them and moving on okay.

So the only maintenance item we may not be replacing in this video is the air filter. This was done about 10 000 miles ago when he had an oil change, so i just want to double check that it's still good yeah, usually if this was original at 40, 000 miles, there'd, be leaves and dirt and all sorts of stuff in here. So this is pretty good, maybe we'll hit it on the next service or the one after these usually go about. You know 40 000 miles roughly okay.
So on this side we are going to reinstall the air box, so just make sure everything falls right into place. You don't want to crack any of this plastic plug in our sensor and then no real special tool is required to close this clamp back up just like that side. Cutters work really well, these are totally reusable and our air intake system is complete and on this side, we're just going to plug this in plug this in. We didn't even need to disconnect those, since we didn't take the plenum out and we're going to go ahead and slide our computer back in and this just snaps in there's little rubber bushings there that hold it in place.

Now we just got ta go around and clip the harness back. There we go all right, then we have our brake booster vacuum tube right back into place pop the old beauty cover back on and then i'm just going to start it up before we move on there. We go all right, so starting up the engine after you do spark plugs is just something i like to do. It's not really necessary, but i've been doing it for my entire career, and i just want to verify that the engine is still running just as well as it did before.

We took anything apart just in case we broke a connector messed up a spark plug way or something like that. That way, you're not moving on to other things on the car uh, without knowing for sure that your engine is the same way that it came in. I don't know just a habit that i've gotten myself into, but before we move on to the transmission service, i'm just lubricating all the latches, i'm gon na do this for the doors as well, and that is just part of the b service to clean and lubricate. The latches, so these are already clean and i'm using the amsoil metal protector.

This stuff is great, it kind of leaves a little film, but it doesn't attract a lot of dirt um and i find it to work well on latches so anyway, i'll go around. Do that and the car is going back up for a trans service actually before we do the transmission service, i'm gon na do the coolant flush, because we're gon na have to warm up the engine and transmission to check the level and right now everything is pretty Cold, so we can do this flush and not have to wait for the system to go down in pressure before we open it. So i have popped the cap off up top all right, so we're just going to turn that, and here comes our coolant. So i have the oil drain, but i don't have a coolant drain yet so we're using an empty five five-gallon container of methanol that i used to use on my turbo trans am and one of my e55s, the first one we're using that to drain our coolant Into whatever works right, all right, if you guys have been following the v12 series and you've seen this tool, i use this also on my audi s4 in florida.
So right now we are going to pull a vacuum all right and now we are going to pull in the coolant right here from the coolant bottle, and this way we don't mess around with any air pockets. We've sucked all the air out of the system, and now it's filling itself an alternative. If you don't want to buy the tool, is simply to drain out all the coolant and then just fill it up slowly, you'll have to run the engine turn the heat on. You might have to blip the throttle a few times, but eventually you'll get it most systems.

Aren't that big of a pain to bleed you just have to be patient or you just get yourself the vacuum bleeder and call it a day all right. So, with the coolant service done, we are now moving on to the transmission service. We're just gon na go ahead and crack open this drain plug and let's drain our fluid. So as you can see, this is the blue fluid.

So mercedes went to a blue transmission. Fluid - and that is not all of it if you were to remove the pan right now, you're going to make a huge mess watch this. There is a plastic tube which you guys are going to see in a moment, and we just need to push it over. Ah, of course, it still made a mess on me, so we're getting a ton more fluid out by pushing that tube over stop okay.

So, while that's draining, we can remove this little cover, pull this harness out of the way and we can start removing our e10s. Technically you're supposed to take the transmission crossmember out, it can be a little tight to get these bolts out, but if you get a quarter drive e10 in there, you just save the last few threads by hand, and you can do this one last bolt now. There's still going to be fluid here, so don't just go drop in the pan right away. You got to be slow here, gentle gentle gentle.

There we go all right, then you can just pop your filter out losing a little bit more fluid. It's best to have a piece of cardboard on the ground, but overall, not too bad okay, so i turned the engine with the crank bolt by hand. So i could spin the torque converter and show you this. That is a torque converter drain plug.

So you can drain between one and two extra quarts out of the converter when you're doing your service, which is all fine and dandy, except this - is in a horrible spot. So if we open up that drain, where's the fluid going in the transmission case, it's going to seep down it's going to look like a rear main seal leak forever. Most people don't drain the converter because of how big of a mess it is, but we have a way better option. So this is a special transmission drain tool that pumps compressed air into the transmission and it is going to pump out all of the fluid so that we are flushing this thing completely.
As you can see, this is for the 720 2.6 and 9 mercedes transmission, but this tool covers a few different transmissions, and here you can see the other adapters that come with the kit. So this will take care of a few different makes and models, and it came from fcpeuro.com all right. So i've connected my shop air - and here we go we're giving this very little air pressure. So we can kind of control the leakage if you pump it up too much it'll kind of squirt all over the place, but right now we're getting it right into the pan and i'm not making a mess on my floor, which is huge, wait a minute.

Maybe a little bit of a mess. Oh there we go, you might need to move this thing around a little bit, but you can hear all the fluid just gurgling out of here and now we don't have to touch the torque converter. That is huge, but we're still draining it. So we've been going for about three or four minutes now and the fluid is still coming out strong.

So i'd say there was at least two or three quarts left deep in the crevices of this transmission and in the converter, and it does look to be slowing down now a bit an alternative. If you don't want to buy this tool is simply to drain it from the torque converter, you're going to make a little bit of a mess, but at least you know, you've gotten all the fluid out of there and a lot of people just don't do anything At all they don't drain the converter, they simply drop the pan, fill it back up after replacing the filter and call it a day. I'd be lying. If i said i didn't do that in the past either i think there's only about a quart, maybe two inside of the converter and the entire transmission, i believe, is something like 12 or 13 quarts.

Something like that. I'd have to look it up, so you know it could be about 15 of the fluid is in the converter. So, if you're, okay with leaving that in there, if it's a lower mileage car and the fluid, looks good, do that - i got ta say this - is really cool. You guys probably can't hear this on camera, but i can hear the transmission cooler up here.

Getting cleaned out you can hear it flowing, not sure if you guys can hear that, but we are just about done here. Just a few drips left and the transmission is completely empty. All right! We're done here we're gon na turn this off disconnect and then this just spins right off all right. So at this point we can install our new mercedes-benz filter.

Snaps right in this back part will just kind of lay like that. That's normal! If you remember, when we dropped the pan with the old one, it was doing the same thing. There looks to be a little clip here, but it does nothing. It doesn't actually hold it up there.

So this is fine as soon as we zip the pan in it'll push it back up. Okay, so then we're just going to take a clean rag and kind of clean. This out, you'll find that there are some magnets in here. Don't worry if there's a little bit of gunk on these okay, that is totally fine see.
This is okay. If there are big chunks of metal on here, that's not okay, but if your transmission is still shifting, fine, then just pretend you didn't see it and move on, and i just like to clean the inside of the pan get all the old fluid out. This is that little plastic tube that i was talking about and i had pushed it over so that all the fluid could drain out and with the fcp euro kit, they actually give you a new one. So you just take that snap, it back in and you're good to go.

You can reuse the old one. I think they give it to you just in case you break this, then you'd be dead in the water. So, let's put our magnets right back where they went and i got this entire transmission service kit from fcp euro. So it comes with the pan gasket.

You do need to replace these bolts that hold the pan in a new seal ring, a mercedes-benz filter and, i think, like 10 or 11 liters of this blue fluid amsoil sells this also, and i've used it on the mercedes and it's fine. But this just comes in a nice complete kit, so i just went with that. While i was ordering everything else from fcp euro, so here is our new pan gasket we're ready to go all right. Just going to clean up the gasket mating surface on the transmission.

Make sure it's free of transmission fluid go around with a rag and some brake clean and then with our new pan gasket, we can install the pan just be prepared with a bolt, and i like to start off with one of these middle ones. Okay, don't hammer these down, they don't get torqued down very tight and then just start this one by hand, because it's at kind of a weird angle i like to thread this all the way up before i get the tool on. Okay put them all in there. Still kind of loose give it a few taps just make sure it's perfectly centered, then you can start tightening up just a tad just snug them up with the gun, be very careful just like that.

So you're just doing four newton meters and then we're gon na. Do a 180 degree angle torque! That's all four newton meters is, after your four newton meters, you're just doing 180 degrees. You can use an angle torque tool or you can just do two 90s, like that stretches the bolt out and you're good to go 90 and 90.. All right, we'll finish up the rest and then it's time to pump some transmission fluid in well.

This is what happens when you're working in between garages, i'm still working on the v12 at my house, so i forgot my special tool that screws into the bottom, so you can fill the transmission up. Luckily, these bottles from fcp seem to seal in there pretty well. So we're basically just going to be squeezing this fluid in, and this gives me the opportunity to show you guys how to do this. If you don't have the special tool which helps a lot, it really does just got to squeeze it in and probably not going to be able to squeeze all of it.
So if i get to the end and i'm running low on fluid i'll have to pour what's left in one of these into another one, it's just going to take a little bit of time, but luckily, with that tube in there, i can pull this out right Now and it's fine - you guys saw when i originally opened it. We didn't get all that much fluid, so i'll kind of know when to stop, and i think the total fill is like 10 quarts or 11 quarts, something like that. So right now i have the engine running and we're monitoring the oil temperature of the automatic transmission fluid so we're at 99 degrees fahrenheit. We need this to get to 113 degrees, fahrenheit or 45 degrees celsius, and at that point we're going to pull the drain and i'll show you how to check it from there all right, we're there 1113.

Let's check it all right, so i consolidated all of the bottles into one. So this is our 10th liter and with the transmission at the proper temperature, we can put this in there and we should be just right. Okay, this should start to come out now. That'd be quick yep, so this is how you set the fluid here right when it starts right there right when you start to see a little bit of air in it.

You know that the level is right above the tube and since it's at the proper temperature we know it is set at the proper level. Now, so that's it go ahead and tighten this up. We have a new seal ring for that as well and there's no dipstick. So this is the madness you have to go through to set the transmission fluid level on this era, mercedes, it's uh, it's it's not fun and i should probably wear some gloves, but anyway, this is done i'll, clean it up.

We got to put some panels back on and we're moving on to the brake, fluid flush. Okay, so the mercedes-benz brake fluid flush is due every two years. Although most people go five six years, some people never do it. But if you want to follow that it's every two years and i like to start off by sucking the old fluid out and then filling the reservoir with the new stuff and we're going to be using a pneumatic, fluid extractor for this.

So you can kind of see this yellow color here in the hose. We want that to be clear: okay, all right, we've sucked out the entire reservoir, and now we can pour in our synthetic brake fluid and you can see this is totally clear and then we just go around to each caliper. You want to start at the right rear the one that's furthest from the master cylinder, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front and just bleed each caliper for about one minute and double check that the reservoir is not going dry. You're.

Definitely gon na have to add some fluid and with the fluid topped up for the last time, you're done with your brake fluid flush. So this service at the dealer is about two hundred and twenty dollars. We did it for about twelve 12 or so in fluid an alternative. If you don't have a shop air compressor or that tool is, you can either gravity bleed where you just crack the bleeders and pay attention to the reservoir until it kind of drains out, and you keep on filling it and close the bleeders.
Don't get air in the system that takes a little bit of time or you can grab a helper and you'll crack one of the bleeders they'll push down, it'll squirt the fluid out and then before they go up with the pedal. You have to close the bleeder. So that's kind of a little buddy system method you can do and now i'm just reinstalling the wheels all the under engine panels are installed as well and we are coming to the end and i'll wrap up uh. Some final costs, for you guys also as part of the b service you lubricate the sunroof tracks, so i actually still have some of the mercedes sunroof grease left over from my dealership days.

A few other things i did off camera is set the tire pressure. The spare in the trunk included - and we did the cabin filter not too long ago, so that's part of the bee service as well, but it's practically new, so i'm not gon na replace that again, my friend put the wiper blades on not too long ago. Also so we don't need to replace those but the cabin filter and the wiper blades and a tire, inspection and rotation, the lubrication of everything, the oil change, that's all included in the b service, the inspection and whatnot, and then they add in the brake fluid flush. Depending on when you did that and the coolant flush and whatnot so the coolant flush we spent about 35 dollars on it's 225 at the dealership, uh that transmission fluid was 220 diy style, and it's about 750 at the dealer and, like i said, the spark plugs About 750 at the dealer - and we did them for 65 - so we're way ahead of the game here.

I think and that'll do it for today's video. So we completed what would have been about 3 000 worth of work at the mercedes-benz dealer for about 650 diy style, and you guys can do this stuff at home as well. If something in this video was too intimidating for you then pick something else. Do a couple of them you'll definitely save at least a few hundred dollars and this kind of stuff.

This kind of maintenance work is really fun. Unlike some of the stuff, you guys have seen me do on my v12. That is not necessarily all that much fun, especially for the general public out there, i'm still having a good time, even though pulling my hair out, but this maintenancy stuff is very rewarding. So i highly recommend you get your hands dirty and save yourself some money at the same time, so i'm going to leave a list down below of some other cars with this engine and transmission combo that pretty much all of this stuff applies to.

So, just generally speaking, check out the description box, there's going to be a ton of links to everything you've seen here and some other information pertaining to mercedes-benz maintenance. So with that, if you enjoyed this video, give it a big thumbs up share the video subscribe. If you haven't already and most importantly, have an awesome day i'll catch all of you in the next video you.

By Alex

13 thoughts on “Mercedes quoted $3,000 for every maintenance service so i did them all for $650! 2010 & up mercedes!”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Iain Ray says:

    Great Video as usual Alex, Is there something that could be put on the rear suspension rusty bolts and disk dust cover for preventative maintenance while you have it up in the air?

    Does grease last or is there something else, my GF has just bought her Alfa Romeo Giulietta after the finance term has ended, meaning we are potentially keeping it for a while. I'd like to make life easier for me in the future and stop things rusting while I can, as there's nothing rusty yet but being in the UK its inevitable!

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars IKhan says:

    Yeah I did the MAF and TB cleaning plus installed 6 new spark plugs for under $100. Certain things I leave to a mechanic but simple stuff like oil/filter changes, air filter change, cabin filter change, light bulb change and tune up is easy to do.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Craig Hearn says:

    I was hoping you were going to use a rubber coated stainless dog dish to put all your clips, tools and screws during this whole process. I kept watching you balance everything on uneven surface. Other than at this is totally doable by anyone so thanks for creating.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joel Crow says:

    And that's it folks…. take a second to inventory what you just saw. For all of the shit that Mercedes takes for service cost, if you can keep up these fluid changes then your's is going to last a LONG time and drive incredibly! A million thanks to Alex for this incredibly professional content (tools, kits, camera angles showing the work being done, full instructions, good lighting, links to buy stuff)… This is the absolute BEST video I've ever seen on youtube for MB service! I am especially excited because my ML350 has this same engine and I was just looking for a good video showing that tranny flush…THANK YOU!

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Marr says:

    I took my Cadillac to an independent auto repair center for a second opinion. They charged me a lot more than the dealer. $160 to plug in a code reader. There were no codes, so they didn't even need to clear the codes, just unplug it and print out my invoice.
    I'm thinking every transmission tech gave out a big moan when you wiped out the trans pan and whatever you wiped on the bottom of the valve body. You never touch a transmission part with a rag. Paper towels only, if you're going to touch.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ghost Wrench says:

    I’m so glad I don’t live in the rust belt! That 2014 Mercedes with 40k miles has way more rust than my ‘03 Mini with over 160k miles. I too enjoy maintenance services, but it seems I only get to do them on my personal cars. I do line work at my dealership.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars thomas aquinas says:

    I always bought reliable cars that could live with only oil changes; I've never needed service on cars for the last 20 years. Anyway, in re DIY, sometimes you can do some service, but you must go to someone, either the dealer or an independent service company. Why? Well, you just paid a fortune for the 5/50 warranty and even more for the important 12 mo. bumper to bumper warranty. If you went to the dealer, or a recognized business, for service, you're safe. If you did it yourself, all the receipts in the world can't prove you're competent to do the job.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars FHI says:

    When I do the transmission service, I leave the pan on and remove the gear box oil pump if possible before I do the oil filter. Some models don't allow that method. From there you can see the torque converter drain plug and being able put an air nozzle onto the pan drain plug hole and blow the TC out very fast but don't overdo it with the air pressure since the oil pan can bulge. If the pump is out, the two black seals have to be replaced before going back in. Unfortunately these are quite pricey, like 40 buck a piece. No special tools required and gets the job done fast

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brian M says:

    Having changed the 7 speed fluid and filter before on my C300, the fluid actually looked new on this car. It turns a burnt green with slight brown contrast over time. I did mine at 40 and between 65 and 70k.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Glyn Jones says:

    Didn't know that gearbox flush tool existed. Definitely need to get one as the Ssangyong Rexton 2 XVT I own has a Mercedes derived 5 pot diesel and a 722.6 gearbox but no drain on the tourque converter.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Humza Ahmed says:

    Hey Alex was hoping you could answer this, someone I know with a 722.9 (145000 miles and the oil service has never been carried out) was told that if he changes the oil things like metal shavings would come loose and destroy the gearbox, so unless it's being problematic he shouldn't change the oil. Does that sound right?

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Todd Lloyd says:

    Watching this channel gave me the confidence to buy a 2006 CLK 350 and do my own work on it.

    However! I won’t be doing my own transmission fluid change again. That turned into a bigger mess than I wanted, and it wasn’t fun trying to do it under my car only supported by floor stands.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Seah says:

    Last week I brought in my '10 E350 4Matic (142k miles) to the dealer for the service B and to inspect a brake fluid leak (it would go from max to min in about 4-5 days). The dealer said that all the brake lines were bad and needed to be replaced, at a cost of $4k. The inspection also said that we needed new engine and motor mounts, new brake rotors, new spark plugs, needed to replace some sort of plug at the back side of the motor that was seeping oil, transmission service, new tires and wheel alignment. If we did all of the necessary (brake lines) and the recommended repairs, the total bill would have been over $16k. We just traded in the car and bought a CPO '18 C300 4Matic instead. The downside was that they still charged us for the B service (they charged us $800 for that), plus an additional $285 for the diagnostic on the brake lines.

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