I haven't even gone all the way up yet and we have a pretty steady drip as long as it's nothing to do with the engine hang on a second, i can get up on these too whoa. Hey guys welcome to legit street cars and welcome to a day in the life today is friday and on fridays. Here at legit street quarters. I do a lot of miscellaneous stuff.

We do a lot of cleaning and organizing, but i actually work on a ton of cars off camera. These are things that individually wouldn't make for a video, but still need to get done and uh. Some of this stuff is, is just like my normal content. It's just not structured, you know exactly the way you guys are used to where we have a beginning, a middle where we work on the car and then like a finished product.

I work on a bunch of cars uh. So anyway, that's what this video is gon na be on, and i think you guys are gon na like it, because it's essentially just me and in some cases peter fixing cars. So anyway, let's just get right into it. We have a bunch of cars to fix and, unfortunately, some cars to diagnose the cl-65 has a coolant leak.

This started up after i was doing some half throttle runs last video testing the intakes out all right. So here's what we got going on after that video. I pulled in, and i just saw a little bit of coolant kind of puddling up there and luckily for me crossing my fingers it's coming from this general area, so hopefully it's a hose. I'd actually be okay with a radiator.

At this point, even though they're really expensive, as long as it's nothing to do with the engine, so let's pressure test all right, so i have the mercedes adapter, but it is leaking right at the tank right now. So i believe that's just the adapter. I don't think there's any issue here with the tank all right here we go so we'll bring this up to about 15 psi, one more for the kids there. We go so we're at 15 right now and it is going down.

I don't 100 trust this whole cap set up right here, uh, but let's look around this hose has pressure for sure and let's see if we can see anything down here, i might have to lift it up. I haven't even gone all the way up yet and we have a pretty steady drip. So while we have pressure - let's just see what's going on here - i got to say this is the only time you should be happy if it's a bad radiator, because i had this entire engine apart, everything went together perfectly, i don't suspect anything with it, but you Never know, okay, what is going on very hard to see right now, it's either the radiator or that hose all the way up there yeah it's really hard to tell it could be the end tank here where it's crimped into the aluminum um. That's a possibility.

I think we got to take this fan out, though all right i've had this radiator fan out way too many times it's pretty easy fan to take out. I must say i removed two screws on the bottom and then we have one here and then another one and yes, there are two totally different bolts because i lost the other factory. One all right got the plug disconnected. This guy should come right out now.

Oh yeah, no, it won't transline. I forgot it's way easier to disconnect this transline. Let me do that. All right transmission line is out i'll.

Show you guys that line up close once we get this fan out and there we go all right. So here's that transline, you won't lose any fluid, but that gets in the way of this little guy right here when you're going up so instead of trying to snake it out and potentially breaking that part of the fan we just disconnect the line so anyway. Uh now we can get a really good look here at what's going on, so it's either the radiator, i suspect - or it could just be this connection right here to the radiator. The fluid looks like it's right here.

It's right underneath that see that so, let's uh, let's pump it back up now we're still under pressure. Where are we at here? Okay, so we haven't lost all of it yet we'll give it a little bit more see, i kind of want to move this around. There's a little o-ring in here that seals it just clean this off start from scratch there. It is see it's just literally squirting that little stream right there, that is right out of the radiator uh as much as i'm.

Okay with that over the engine. I really wanted it to be the hose, while in the world of cl65 ownership. I guess this isn't too bad 351 dollars for a new radiator. So let's go place that on order and get the cl out of here.

For now we got other stuff to work on, like the caprice all right, so i got to move these two cars right over here on the flat stalls and we're doing a lot of organizing here as well. So before we get to those, we have to build this. If you guys noticed, i got a new sonic toolbox and this is an entire system. So it's gon na have a cabinet and everything all right.

So right now we're just taking the drawers out of the box portion, because this got delivered off of a truck on a pallet and it weighs a lot max and i couldn't lift it up. So peter and i are taking the drawers out we're gon na make. It lighter and then hopefully we can just muscle this thing off all right, so we're just adjusting the little legs on the bottom and we got this thing pretty nice and level. Don't we let's try it this way, yeah it's perfect christmas morning.

This hardware is really nice wow. Everything is just super strong. Look at the legs, we're building a roll around cart right now. Look at this everything is supported so well wow.

This is going to be the beefiest cart ever double wheel, casters. This is crazy. All right! We're getting there, this thing is looking so good. We have the backsplash on and that way we can run some wires through here.

If we need to - and we still have the stainless countertop. That's gon na go over this entire thing, and this is just sweet guys. I am so excited for this. Oh wait a minute.

These are totally soft clothes. This is like nicer than my house unreal. All right, we're done with assembly. This is actually pretty easy.

To do. Looks amazing. I got ta, show max yo max wake up. I say you found the cart.

Indeed, it's solid. Isn't it take you over to see a nice breeze there you go, you got to see the new mss plus from sonic. Let me just get you close, yeah, pretty sweet huh. I like it.

I see something cooler than that look at this. The drawers on the mss plus some of them can hold like 570 pounds and then these hold 270 pounds. So hang on a second i can get up on these too. I don't weigh 270 pounds.

These drawers are crazy. This thing is built seriously like a tank. Look at this like there's: no resistance at all, just totally smooth way: overkill stainless steel top. I love this thing so aside from being built extremely well, this is a very versatile system, so there are 121 different modules, so you can build this out to be whatever you need, whether it's at your home garage or in your shop, it's fully powder coated.

It has ball bearing drawer slides a 304 stainless top. I mean the construction is just out of this world. So of course i'll leave you guys a link down below, so you can experiment with building out your own custom storage solution, but i am loving this thing. The only thing i have left to do is fill it with tools and speaking of tools.

This is really neat. I haven't seen another company do this, but tools are a big investment, so sonic sells a sample tool kit, so you can test drive their tools before you buy, and this entire kit is only like 60 bucks. I don't know how they do it, but i've been using only sonic tools here at legit three quarters for about nine months, and i can attest to the fact that these are top-notch the best of the best. A lot of this stuff is made in germany very fine-tooth, ratchets as well.

Everything feels amazing and they have the best and easiest warranty on the market. No longer do you have to wait a couple weeks for a tool truck to show up or not show up to your shop. You don't have to drive anywhere. All your tools are saved in your account.

You scan your qr code, you have your inventory checklist and in a lot of cases you don't even have to mail back your broken tool. They simply send you a new one within 24 hours. That's definitely the way. It should be so check out my special link down below i'm going to leave a coupon code down there as well legit 10 for 10 off everything they sell and if you guys have bought professional tools before you know how big of a deal that is so With that, let's go fix the caprice all right, so the caprice has a bad alternator.

So we got a new one of those and then this door, latch assembly doesn't work anymore. So we got a new one of those as well. So, let's jump start this bad boy. This will be a nice cold start.

It's been sitting here for about four days, and you know this thing's just a little loud all right so yeah, it's got a bad alternator, so even with the jump pack on there, it's dead all right well. This is why you have to charge your jump pack over the weekend. This thing is completely dead and the alternator's dead and the batteries are dead, so everything's dead and the car's dead right here in the stall. So we got ta get to pushing max all right.

So i charged up the jump pack, so you guys can see this low fuel yeah so with it running it's only at 11 volts. So it's only running off of the jump pack right now, which is also at 11 volts and it's in battery saver mode. Alternator issue: there you go look at that and there we go so both the batteries and the caprice uh are dead and uh. The alternator is not doing anything.

So without this it doesn't work all right. So, first things: first, we have to remove the reservoir for the power steering pump and what's nice is we don't have to lose any fluid and make a big mess? Let me just do one of these guys here, tuck it in and no bolts for that you just have to kind of push this tab in and it just slides right out all right. Go ahead. Peter he's going to loosen up the tension on the belt and there we go and we don't really have to get the belt all the way out of here, just kind of tuck it out of the way good to go all right.

So we still have to get the power steering pump out of the way and this gigantic bracket yeah one last bolt for the bracket on the back. We're gon na try and move this out of the way without removing the pump out of the bracket kind of see what happens. Okay, i think if we put the power steering pump just right here kind of resting, we can maybe squeeze this out. We should be able to then that way we really don't have to do too much work with the power steering pump.

So that's kind of nice. I got the last bolt out of the alternator and they always get kind of stuck in here all right. Let's see if i can get this thing out of here: okay, all right! There we go. This would have been a lot easier to replace when i had the engine out and completely disassembled, but you got to draw the line somewhere with the while you're in their parts.

I thought i heard something going on with this bearing but anyway, let's take a look at our new one you're having a baby, it's so cute made in japan. Oh just like you were technically made in japan at least partially made in the usa with japanese park. There you go so this is a factory ac, delco alternator, we're not messing around. I have had issues with cheap rebuilt aftermarket ones, so spent a little bit more on this guy, but i don't want it to fail.

Oh there we go peter just broke it good job, peter, all, right, cool, all right, bolts are started good deal all right, so new alternator is bolted in everything is connected on the back so right now, i'm just gon na put this power steering bracket back in So i'll kick it off here with this bolt in the rear all right there. We go all right, we'll plug this guy in for the coolant temp sensor this guy in for some sparkage, and then this one for the alternator all right belt, going back on there. We go back on with the power steering reservoir harnesses. Look good.

Everything looks good. Nitrous kit looks good. We need that um all ready to fire yeah, let's see if this uh this fixed it fingers crossed nice. That's great aside from low fuel, we shouldn't have any other lights coming on wow.

We are really low on fuel. That's pretty bad! But perfect. This thing is back in action. The caprice ppv doesn't have a normal rear door panel.

Obviously so prisoners couldn't escape. So this car did have a cage that divided the front seats in the rear and it did have a plastic seat in the rear as well. I've gotten rid of that for the factory seats, which are much nicer. I still have to button up the interior, but nonetheless we need to remove this flat panel and get to this guy right here, which has simply broken.

It's just really loose and it doesn't click in anymore. You can just see right there, it's supposed to stop, and i can just push it up with my thumb all right, so we have both of the batteries charging a little bit more right now, but they're fairly new. So we should be good wow. This is beefy.

So this is steel, very strong, they're, not messing around, doesn't look like this has ever been opened before. Usually this gets all distorted and destroyed after a couple, mechanics have been through it all right. We got three t30s. Okay.

There we go here is our bad latch. Let's make sure this guy's, the same looks pretty good, very basic latch on this police car, so we're just going to swap these guys over. I don't believe you need these with no handle these yeah. This is look at this.

These don't go anywhere at all, because there's no handle back here, but we'll hook them up. Nonetheless, eventually, i'd like to get uh a normal door panel back here, so i'm not keeping all of my passengers prisoner but anyway, there's that all right, let's put our little sound proof barrier here. That does nothing and let's test it out there we go perfect. All right all right with the caprice all fixed up, we got to test it out.

I think it's fixed. I haven't driven this thing in a long time because it has a power steering leak, a major power steering leak and i'll show you where it's coming from. As you can well there there you go it's coming from the rack right there. I pulled the boot off uh just to show you guys but go ahead.

Peter start. It up turn the wheel a little bit yeah. So, as you can see, it's leaking right out of the rack and about 150 000 miles pretty normal, so we need to get a rebuilt rack in the ml and it actually just came in and it's right down the street. So we got to remove this one.

Go pick up our new one. All right wheels are off and we're ready to start loosening up. These tie rods right now. I'll say this thing is a beast.

So we're going to be replacing these outer tie rod ends so don't really care about ruining the threads. Not bad all right, we have two lines disconnected right: there we have our electrical connector disconnected if you guys weren't around for the ml55 off-road, build i'll leave a couple videos down below um, but this thing is pretty neat we have bilsteins on here, so these aren't Meant for the ml or anything we had to do a little bit of custom work here to get everything to fit and we actually had to grind out the frame. So we can move the control arms out to adjust our camber. I think i still need to go a little bit more on that and we were able to fit 35s on this ml and these are the factory shocks and springs.

But we have some really big custom spacers that the guys at fluid motor union made for me. So we documented this build series on the channel and it was a ton of fun and then we tested it out in the upper peninsula on some off-roading trails in michigan, so such a fun little suv, it was only 3 800 bucks. It's got a little rust on the doors, so i can beat this thing up and not really care all right. So this rack job is actually kind of a bigger job than i remember.

We have to remove the differential. So we got this drive shaft off. We pulled the axles out of it, which required us to break this loose and kind of just put the spindle in a service position. If you will um so yeah here is our differential, and at this point the last thing i think i hope i got to do is take these bolts out.

I know i've done a rack in an ml, but it's been literally 15 years or something so uh. Yeah, let's get these bolts out and see if we can muscle this guy out of here all right, so we don't really need a trans jack just yet, let's see what happens should just rest on the subframe right now, all right. We got this back. One just kind of holding it all right there you go see, don't fall on me, whoa all right.

It's not too bad, not heavy at all. Nope nope, not struggling. Oh peter! These are keys all right. Dip.

Fluid is one of the nastiest fluids ever peter. Your keys have some of them. You needed to change the oil in these all right, good, all right, so we have the lines and everything disconnected the electrical connector there and uh. I think that's it.

I think. That's all! We need to do all right. You ready peter yeah, let's see come on sweet way. Oh, she is dude.

All i got ta say is. I hope this rebuilt one we get, doesn't leak right away, there's a ton of labor involved here. I don't want to do this again. No, oh man.

We luckily, we found a rack uh rebuilding service, two blocks away from legit street quarters, and this was crazy, but they had an ml55 rack in stock, and these are really rare, they're different from the ml 320, 430 and 500. They have like a different steering ratio, because this is a performance suv all right, so this has turned into multiple days in the life here at legit three-quarters, because we have to wait for parts every once in a while. So everything is in. We have our rebuilt rack and pinion.

This comes with the inner tie, rods and new boots. It's painted. It looks great, can't wait to get that in and then just some while we're in there type of parts we have. The outer tie rods, the upper control arms, the joints were getting loose and the boots are ripped, so i'm gon na replace those and, of course everything is from my friends at fcp euro dot com and yes, they still do their amazing lifetime parts replacement guarantee.

If you buy a part from fcp euro, it's covered for life, while you own that vehicle, so you'll get a brand new part in the mail. You ship, your old part back. It's really easy and i think they're, the only ones that do this. It's an amazing warranty and they also sell all of the big names.

Lemforder i've been using those for years and you can get factory replacement parts from them and normally like from mercedes. For example, they only give you a one-year warranty on those factory mercedes parts. So you can literally get the exact same parts a lot of times for way cheaper and they come with a lifetime parts replacement guarantee so fcp euro down below. If you have a euro car you're gon na love them all right.

Here we go with the control arm. Oh man, i got that on real tight last time, geez yeah. I was strong last year when i did this, i get the old breaker bar out. I ought to do it.

Oh yeah leverage works every time well, except when you use too much leverage and then you break something, then it doesn't really work in your favor. Okay, there we go all right cool all right. Well, this is kind of dumb can't get this bolt out. This is how it went from the factory.

I don't know why we didn't fix this. The last time we had this out. We should just have the bolt going this way and then nut on that side. That would make sense this one see.

I think this one will make it out. No, oh, that is so dumb. What did we do that, for this is what you get for, trying to be proper people. This is how the bolt goes, and i don't know why i put them back in this way.

I probably didn't have the shock in at the time. That's annoying! Oh we're definitely going to fix that. We have the tools. Hopefully we can just loosen up the top of this shock and kind of move it around to get the bolts out.

I hope i couldn't just pull it down out of the way, so we're gon na not be lazy here and just remove the shock there. We go all right, not too bad. You know an extra five minutes. Okay.

Now i can simply take the bolts out this way and yeah. I don't see why we can't just put them in like this and have the nut on that side seems to be the way to go. There's our old control arm and you can see here, the boot is torn and this thing is just really floppy. It's just worn out and here's our new one and it gives you resistance when you're moving the joint.

This is fresh. This is tight. This is going to basically make our ml55 on 35-inch mudding tires handle just like a ferrari. I don't remember this last time, 60 or 09.

I don't know what is going on here, but what does this mean comment down below? If you know i, i have no clue before i install the new control arm. I just wanted to give you guys an update on a modification that we made last year, so some of you, guys, myself included, were a little bit worried about structural integrity of this part of the frame. So we had to notch these out quite a bit to correct a negative camber issue. So after i lifted the ml and put the big tires on there, it looked like one of those stanced vehicles where the wheels were all kind of like in, like that.

At the top uh, so we had to notch this out in order to bring that out and it's still a little bit negative. I need to do more, but this is as much as i felt comfortable removing and then we took it off roading i've driven it. You know 2000 miles whatever and there's no issue at all, but i think, if we're going to add in some more positive camber we're going to have to weld a plate in here, so we can extend the control arm out even further, but so far so good. It's really close, as is, we could probably leave it and be okay, but i think during phase two of this off-road build, which we will get to at some point, we're gon na, do it right weld some plates in there and then do a customer bumper with Another winch and some other cool stuff - i really want to do for now.

I'm just excited to get this thing back on the road. I want to hit some trails. I will lube these up a little bit to make them easier to reinstall when you're working with fresh bushings. It can be kind of a pain to get these back in and then, if you're, trying to get your your bolt lined up, you can take a center punch or anything you can kind of get in here and then you can manipulate the control arm exactly where You need it all right so now we're gon na do the smart thing and install our bolt.

This way, look at that with the bolts in we can just pry this all the way forward to take advantage of our notches that we made last year and i'm going to go ahead and install these nuts, but we're not gon na tighten them just yet. We'll tighten this all up when we get the ml back on the ground that way, you're not putting an unnatural twist on the control arm. I mean we can kind of eyeball it that it was right here, but it's more proper to tighten up control arm bushings with the car loaded on the ground. All right, let's install our bilstein shock.

This does have a reservoir, it's pretty cool looking, and this is not for an ml. I think these are for an f-150 or something we just figured it out with measurements and got it to fit and everything's worked out great. Hopefully this is the last time i have to remove this shock for a very long time, because this is the part that requires a ton of legit street muscle to get going. Oh yeah, this sucks.

We have to compress this and get it started. I think i remember how i did this. I used this guy as like a handle all right, legit street muscles. There we go okay, it's there, i'm gon na take a little breather.

Let the muscles relax do a stretch. Second, part of the procedure is trying to thread this and not cross thread it all right, let's be, let's be smarter than the shock. I can pry this here, put it at the angle that i need or the threading. This is legit street muscle and legit street brain being used in conjunction to tighten a bolt at the end of the day.

We're just we're just tightening a bolt. It's really shouldn't be that hard, and it's not that hard see. I have it threaded, oh yeah, there we go we're good, i did it. I installed the bolt and now i'm tightening it.

It's pretty cool, proud of myself all right guys. It's now like three or four days later, and we still don't have a rack in the ml, and this is why sometimes videos don't come out on time. It's just because of parts, especially when you're working on older euro stuff parts can get messed up. For whatever reason now, in this case, it wasn't really anyone's fault, the 163 chassis ml has two different style: racks, an old style and a new style, so mine, being a 2000 should have the old style.

So that is what i ordered. That's this one here. This is the correct rack for a 2000 ml, but someone had converted this to a later model rack. So this is, i believe, from 2002 to 2005..

It had a different rack. You can see. The difference here mostly are with these lines here. The routing of them is different and also on this style rack, you would just have two lines that thread in the seal, whereas with the newer style you get the banjo bolts that thread in.

So that's what my truck had it had the banjo bolts and a newer style rack. So someone might have just gotten a good deal on a used rack and it was cheaper to switch the lines over because believe it or not at the dealer, a rack for one of these is 3 000. Now i only paid 500 and i just got one rebuilt. I found a place right down the street.

That literally only does racks, but it just took a few days so anyway. Now we have the correct rack. Oh and one other thing, if you're swapping over your rack, don't forget to remove and reinstall any kind of sensor that you see on your rack, for example this one here. It just sits right in here like that, and this part is 500 at the dealer and it takes like a week to get so.

Definitely don't forget any of this on your old core rack and send it in you'll, be in a whole world of trouble. If you do that, all right, so right now we're going to install this ridiculously expensive valve, and it's crazy to think that at the dealership a rack would literally total this vehicle out. I only paid 3 800 for the entire ml and they want 3 000 bucks. Just for the part, so with labor it'd, probably be about four thousand dollars at the dealer to do a rack - and this is an ml 55 for thirty eight hundred dollars it'd be the same cost for an ml 320.

That's worth like fifteen hundred dollars. Anyway, you guys get the idea all right - let's be very gentle with these. You don't need to put much pressure on these screws. You will snap them don't play around here.

Guys stuff is just too expensive to take any chances. Okay, new rack is going in this way and we want to be really careful that we don't mess up the splines here all right from here. We will just slide the rack in so it's little mounting tabs here on the frame there. We go all right slide.

Our bolts, through the top so while you're putting the rack in you, want to go ahead and spline the steering shaft onto the rack and then you're going to secure that with a bolt through there and a nut on the other side. Next up we're going to install the line, so we have our banjo bolts with fresh copper washers. So you put the bolt through and washer goes on the other side and then we're just tightening these down. Definitely get these threaded before you get any kind of tool on here.

You don't want to cross thread anything all right, then we're just snugging these lines up. I already did the bottom one. What i like to do is kind of hold the line here, because you can turn the line as you tighten it. So just make sure you have it in a spot that you like it, where it's not hitting anything and we're just crushing these seal rings here.

So we don't have to do a crazy amount of torque here just hand. Tight is good there. We go all right last up over here we're going to plug in this ridiculously expensive sensor. There you go all right here.

We go time to muscle the front differential in by hand. It's the only way to do it. These really aren't that bad, especially if you you know work out constantly every single day. Like me, clearly, okay, piece of cake, is that all you got all right, we'll get one of these guys started and that's two and this big one goes all the way through feeling extra lazy and don't want to do this by hand.

So we got an extension out there. We go okay. So now we have the fun of reinstalling the axles and it's very important to get the axle at the right angle, because it's already kind of hard to push it past the little c-clip at the end of the axle. So if you're kind of crooked, it's gon na be even more difficult, so we're gon na try and get this as level as possible.

At some point it will start to lift the vehicle and that's when we stop all right i'll get the axle started, make sure it's splined before you kind of put any force on it, and you should not need to use a hammer or anything like that. There. We go okay and it's got to be all the way solid here you can see this is kind of a dust shield for the seal and that's perfectly flush. So that's installed all the way all right, so they didn't give me new nuts for the upper control.

Arms, which is odd, so i will get those but for now i'm just going to put a little bit of loctite if this spins you might have to hold it, but right now we're pretty good. So i'll, probably just tighten it up like this all right and that's nice and tight all right. We're almost done here just got to get the little drive shaft reattached. We want a little bit of loctite on these.

We don't want these bolts flying off when we're off-road in the ml 55, so i put a little bit of loctite on there i'll start all of these. First before we start tightening anything and tighten these up by hand we'll go all the way around. You guys get the idea, righty tighty, lefty loosey, don't forget it all right! Next up we have the outer tie rods. These are labeled left and right.

I'm just going to go ahead and thread these guys on, and we definitely need an alignment after this, but because we're not completely done up top it'd, be kind of a waste of money. They're never going to get the camber in spec, so i'll eyeball it. For now, we'll fix that up over at fluid motor union with oj and the guys and then we'll get a real alignment. Okay for these, we definitely have new hardware and install a little loctite on there as well.

All right, let's get some fluid in this rack. Then we'll bleed it out now before we fire this thing up, i'm just going to turn the wheel lock to lock a few times, get the fluid flowing that way, we're not running the pump dry. All right go ahead and start it up max, pull the steering wheel back and forth. Let's see how it sounds pretty good, and this is what you want to see.

You don't want the fluid to be aerated with a bunch of bubbles and uh. We went back and forth with this a bunch of times before we started it. Otherwise you will hear a groaning power steering pump and that's not nice to do to your pump all right. It's now time for my least favorite part of working on the ml, and that is getting these gigantic monster truck tires on these weigh so much.

These are the factory wheels and we did these rock rings here just to protect the aluminum wheel, because you could damage these on rocks uh, and then we put some hardware on here that did rust. Yes, people pointed that out. I see it too. It rusted we uh, probably should have powder coated those or something, but we didn't and uh one of these days.

I will have to fix that. That day is not today, because i want to go drive this thing. We're going to go. Do some serious off-roading here to end the video okay, all right, there's the whole found it all right all right.

I think it's actually easier to do this like so there we go much easier than playing around on the ground. With these monster truck tires check the comments. No doubt there's someone down there. It's like monster truck tires.

My boy daryl's put some 37s on his stock v6 f-150. Those ain't monster truck tires they're only 35s they're monster truck tires for me. Okay, the biggest tires i've ever bought in my whole life. Let's go do some chicago off-roading all right, so i have to make some field adjustments here.

You can see we have quite a bit of negative camber. I already moved that out pretty much as much as it can go. That's why we need to make those plates for the control arms, but our toe is out of whack this one's, not too bad, but we can fix that yeah. So this is pretty much as far out as it goes right now.

Next thing i'm gon na make it. I don't know dude, oh man, you might get stuck here. We go ready. There we go.

Oh back, tight you're. Definitely gon na get stuck. Oh my goodness. All right guys, obviously that was pretty extreme.

I don't know if i want to push it much further than that, because we do have to work on the alignment, but clearly the ml55 is very, very capable off-road. But, more importantly, we don't have a leaking rack. It's perfect, i'm loving it. I can finally drive this guy again.

99. 100. All right, i've gotten my workout in this video is done. We have a fixed caprice, a fixed ml55 sort of we got to make some adjustments in the front end.

But this thing is almost trail ready and we have a totally broken cl 65 amg that, yes, i did drive here with a leaking radiator, because we're only like a block away and because i had to get that thumbnail. I wanted all the cards that i've worked on in the thumbnail and i think i have at least accomplished that so in the next cl65 video we're going to replace the radiator some hoses we're going to do some work on the transmission and it's going on the Dyno so we're finally going to get some baseline numbers with this thing. You know if it doesn't break again, which is unfortunately, a real possibility. So with that, if you guys enjoyed this video, give it a big thumbs up share the video with your friends subscribe.

If, for some crazy reason, you haven't already that this wouldn't make any sense, just just hit the subscribe button and, most importantly, have an awesome day i'll catch all of you in the next video you.