I bought a widebody LS swapped 911 and I may have a gigantic problem. this was the oil pressure gauge when I first took delivery of the car, the engine was running pretty hot and the factory Porsche oil pressure sensor was connected to the LS engine and running through the factory cluster. So I just kind of chocked this up as a translation issue and didn't think much of it now. I Bought my widebody LS swapped 911 for only $27,000 because the swap wasn't really completed and it overheated.

but after fixing the overheating issue for free by rewiring the fans I thought I got a pretty good deal. So after some maintenance work I took it to Fluid Motor Union for a phenomenal exhaust system that sounds like this, the car felt super fast, the engine sounded great, and I was ready to move on to some modifications. but after driving another 100 miles, my oil pressure dropped big big time and was reading about 10 psi while cruising down the highway. Now, oil pressure issues in LS swapped 911s is definitely a thing and I'm now going to always mechanically check oil pressure on questionable new car projects like this, but we have some tests to do.

We are probably going to have to take the engine apart and let's just hope that I have the Luck of the Irish once again I am 11% Irish So hopefully that's enough. All right guys, here we go a little bit of cool Parts Show and Tell before we get to work because the second most common, second most common comment in my comment section is about oil starvation issues with Ls swapped 911s. I've seen the comments and I've definitely heard of this issue from the car Wizard on Tyler Hoover's LS swapped Porsche 911 and we will be getting into that because it's something that needs to be fixed and I'm going to fix in a really cool way with trap doors and stuff. we'll get into all of this.

But first, we need to verify that our LS1 doesn't have a bottom end issue. So this is the factory Porsche Oil pressure sensor. It's a two- pin sensor running into the factory harness and it uses an adapter to screw into the LS engine. This does read in bar, so my thinking is that maybe there's a translation issue between what it's reading and the gauge in the car.

So we're going to eliminate that by testing with a mechanical oil pressure gauge. So normally at cold start we're at two bar on the gauge which is 30 PSI So let's see what we got. Ah, it doesn't like to start on the first try. Okay, now let's see what we got there.

We go. Ah, great. Okay, so yeah, it's accurate. It's reading about 30 and okay, all right so that was that.

3,000 RPM we're getting about 45 PSI Um, when it when it's cold? All right, let's there we go. It just shut itself down. Great. Okay, so 30 PSI at cold start going up to 45 PSI at 3,000 RPM Not super alarming, but to throw a wrench into this whole situation, this is what the gauge was reading on my last.

Highway Cruise So this is at operating temperature and it's showing like about 10 or 11 PSI So that is what really has me concerned concerned. Now this engine sounds totally fine and when OJ and I were ripping on this thing, the oil pressure was Rising Really nice and quick. Uh, when we were going up in RPM so I didn't suspect any issue whatsoever. but now now I do.

and now I want to take this oil pan off which is going to require this beautiful exhaust to come down while the exhaust cools off. Let's drain our oil and I'm going to save this in a clearish container. This oil has about like 300 miles since I changed it something like that. Um, yeah.

okay I don't know. what does that look guys weird. It's kind of dirty actually. So when I changed the oil I clean the drain plug like pretty well and now we have some more of this stuff that's not a good sign.

I have our oil sample there I'm letting the rest drain into the pan. Keep in mind there was a bunch of other debris in here. but I don't know guys. I don't know.

I'm getting a little nervous here on removing the pan. This engine sounds perfect. The GM spec is 6 PSI per 1,000 RPM And this has always just boggled my mind with the Ls engines because I've owned a bunch of cars with Ls's and some of them. You start it up and they have 40 PSI or 50 psi.

you rev them, they Peg the gauge and then I've had Vehicles like my van that also idles in like the I don't know 15 to 17 PSI range. LS Guys, what are you at Cold start and hot idle and just cruising on the highway? What's your oil pressure? Jeez, Not good. Is that a chunk of something? Yeah, that looks chunky. That definitely looks like a piece of something right there, Doesn't it? This stinks guys.

this really stinks. All right. Let's stop the bleeding here by putting that in. Oh, just give this a tighten so we don't forget.

I Always tighten drain plugs even though we might be taking it right back out. Let's remove our mechanical oil pressure gauge and then we'll take this off. Can't wait to see the oil that comes out of the oil filter. It's going to be wonderful.

All right. A little bit more oil out of there. All right oil filter coming off. Yeah, it's dirty.

you know, 300 miles or so on this oil. Now before I drop the exhaust and the oil pan and probably find something really bad. let's see if I have any better luck with my friends Audi who just stopped by and we're going to use Carly to diagnose a check engine light. So there it is right there and it's got a lack of power and we're going to be able to scan for that check engine light and much more using our Carly OBD diagnostic tool and Carly connects to your car via Bluetooth and the Carly app right to yourself phone or tablet.

So let's go to diagnostics, check for issues, position sensors in the guidance engine this could be a diverter valve. Let's search for more info and this is really cool. It'll do a search for you and then bring you to videos and Forums on the issue and check this out. If we go into the ABS system, it has a TPI warning.

We can enter into Smart Mechanic and for some codes you can get smart mechanic expert guidance so this will tell you right down here symptoms of what's going on and then possible causes. So because of Carly we found Forum posts that point to a diverter valve issue which I guess is pretty common on these. Carly has so many features like resetting your service and maintenance indicators and engine live data and the used car check. So if you guys are going to go check out a used car, definitely hook up.

Carly So we'll start the used Car check right now. Carly Detected no tampering and it used three different data points to get that information. This is invaluable if you're going to look at your next used car. My favorite is coding, so check out all the options just in this one control unit.

You can change the speed in which your door locks lock, you can turn daylight, running lights on and off and much much more. and I'm going to leave a link down below. You can go to the site, type in what kind of car you have and Carly will tell you what it can do for you because some cars you can't do much coating with and other cars like this Audi you can do a lot of coating with. So I've done lap timers in the Audi on some of the BMWs It doesn't have one touch window up when you have the door open so I was able to code that out and you can do fun things like change the sound of the chime in some BMWs to a Rolls-Royce chime.

it's a Rolls-Royce Now now the best part is if you guys click on my link down below and use coupon code Legit 23, you are going to get 15% off your very own Carly OBD diagnostic en coding tool. This is limited time so if you guys have ever wanted one of these, now is an excellent time and unfortunately now is the time for me to go find out if my Porsche engine is destroyed. Time for the exhaust to come down so we'll uncp our O2s. There's the other one on the driver's side.

I Going to say the exhaust is pretty easy to work on. That's nice. The exhaust bracket uses two of the oil pan bolts to hold it in, so we need to take those out anyway. That's it.

There we go. Oh, this exhaust is so nice. So nice and easy. Look at this.

It's light too fbody. Corvette Even the Ls truck guys. You guys are going to be jealous of this. Well, not my potentially bad engine, but look at the amount of room we have here by just simply unbolting the exhaust.

We can get to every single oil pan bolt and there's no subframe in the way. This is so nice. Well, now that I'm about to take this pan down, reality is just like kicking in that do I have another car with a bad engine and if so, how much is it gonna cost me? How much work is it gonna take? Just get this over with. This stinks.

You know what? I Just noticed it's missing the oil pan bolts in the back. those really long ones that go all the way through. They're just not there. Okay, this should be our last one here.

We go guys. here we go. Okay, what are we going to have? Like, Could the pickup just be clogged? Doesn't look too bad? Well, it's definitely a stock LS1 intake oil pan, that's for sure. No aftermarket baffles or anything to prevent The oil from slashing around and not getting picked up by the pickup tube.

which is what a lot of you guys have been commenting about and we will be going over here soon. But first, let's just let's discover. Yeah, this isn't looking very promising guys. The bearings are definitely going to be in bad condition.

Oh no, we have chunks. We have bearing chunks. Look at that. Ah ah, this is not good.

I Got so lucky with the overheating issue. This thing had a bad motor from the get-go It just didn't make any noise at all. Now it doesn't necessarily mean it's a totally bad motor. I mean I have replaced many bearings on cars without even taking the engine out of the car or apart and we fix low oil pressure issues.

The Grand National is like that I put like 3,000 Mi on it after doing the bearings and it's perfect. But uh, let's just hope the crank isn't messed up at this point. we know we're going to fine with these bearings. I'm going to remove the oil pickup and the factory windage tray.

I'm definitely replacing this as well because improved racing makes a really nice piece that's going to also help feed this engine oil. And the pickup is only one little bolt on one end and we just need 113. And there are many reasons why an engine can be starved of oil. One of them is this little o-ring that we're about to take a look at and the O-ring is nice and seated.

It doesn't look flat on one end or anything, so that's good. If these get installed in properly and they get pinched, it'll just suck up air and you'll have really low oil pressure right from the get-go But yeah, our screen it doesn't look that bad. Nothing really plugged up other than some you know bearing material. Now we can remove our windage tray with a few more 13s.

Oh what was that? Oh that was a dipstick too I'm like what is that? Oh man. okay all right, that looks normal. Here is our bottom end I Believe this is just going to be a stock bottom end I don't see any fancy Hardware or anything but something I did notice is is that looks kind of like a little Gap there. This one's not loose though.

But anyway, let's start with this one. the bolts are facing down. Okay first Rod cap coming down. Let's get that out of the way here.

We go here. we go. What do you look like little buddy, You got some wear on you? Nothing horrible though. this isn't bad.

Okay I like to see that and the the crank looks good. This crank Journal looks totally mint so that's good. Let's pop this Rod up. Oh yeah, there's compression I'm fighting it.

You hear that? To make this easy, you just pull the spark plugs. but I'm just too impatient. Then we can swing this down. Yeah, there's definitely some wear on these.

This one is not horrible though. And the crank is Mint. Okay, that's good. I'm going to go ahead and remove all of these.

Okay, that bearing stayed with the crank. Oh this spun. Oh yeah, that's fun. Oh, let's get this.

Pistons out of the way. Oh no. let's see what we got. Oh, this one's shot.

Look at that. How is the oh. The crank is nice. Oh thank goodness.

Okay, so yeah. this bearing spun when I took it off there. You can tell it it it, you know it's spun. That's what a spun bearing looks like if you've never seen that before.

Yeah, this bearing is shot. Um, if none of the other ones are like this, that is where our oil pressure was going. Sometimes you see that where it's just one. but the crank.

The crank. Thank goodness. It is perfect. Like there's nothing wrong with this crank.

It's totally smooth. It didn't get destroyed, which happens a lot when you spin a bearing. So let's keep going. This is the next easiest one to get to.

This one did not spin Okay, cool, good job. And here comes our other bearing. Here comes. The bearing looks pretty good.

Here's the last one we can get to before needing to turn the crank. Please don't spin. Please don't spin. Okay, good so far.

another decent bearing. This is good and then we'll just push the rod up. Okay, we're going to have to. We're going to have to rotate a little bit.

We're turning the crank right now and when you do this, you want to be careful of the rods that you've already separated so they don't jam up in the crank and hit anything. So I'm being very mindful of where the crank Journal is in relationship to those and it seems like we're clear so far. Listen to that compression. We're definitely good on compression, that's for sure.

This thing runs runs hard. Okay, that Rod got out of the way. We have access to this, this, almost this, and that. All right.

Three out of four. that's pretty good. Oh no. another bearing is stuck on the crank.

That that can happen sometimes. just the oil holds it up there or that one's spun. Okay I can't get that Rod to Move It All I'm going to turn this a little bit more. I have this Rod Nice and loose, but this bearing won't come off.

This is where the two bearing halves come into contact and it's just not letting loose. Oh there we go. Just get a couple. Love Taps There we go.

Okay, Ah that's not good. Oh got another really bad one. Let's see what do you look like? Um, Yep, yep, that's not good. This one has a little bit of the bearing material that rubbed off right there, but it is totally smooth.

so I think that'll polish out by hand. down the line we go so far. I'm not getting lucky with the ones that are stuck on the crank. Give a Lo tap.

There we go. Oh another one. Another bad one. Oh good crank though.

so far we are just lucking out on the crankshaft. That is beautiful. Let's push this Rod out of the way and we got the top side bearing and more of the same crank. Feels perfect.

What do we got? Two left guys. Oh I'm getting way too lucky here. Two left. Please be okay.

We can fix this so far with a set of bearings well and some measurements. We need to take lots of measurements. Perfect. We got a good one.

Sweet. Where you at top, side bearing, where you at. Ah okay. safety glasses people.

Safety glasses. even when you're working underneath an engine here. I Got oil in my eye but luckily my reflexes are very quick. didn't actually get in my eye.

It's kind of like I'm crying oil tears right now. CU I Kind of am. Last one one, no stop, no another spun one. This last one's a really good visual for you guys.

If you see the split between the two bearings right here, that is not good, this should be right there. Oh why is it the last one is spun? Come on. come on Crank! You are fine. You are protected.

You're going to be okay. Crank, Don't be a little baby. You're an LS You can survive anything. Okay, Oh oh.

Crank looks great I Love the Ls. Check this out. One, two, three, Four spun rod bearings. We have four spun rod bearings on this.

LS Engine wornout bearings can be so interesting. Over the many years I've been working on cars. I've seen so many different scenarios. Uh, the GN The Grand National had a brutal rod knock and it also had bearings like this.

but the oil pressure was at like 50 psi when it it was warm. This one. no rod knock at all. The engine sounds perfect, but it has the lower oil pressure.

It is technically within GM spec. Um, but we have actual spun rod bearings where they spun all the way around. So anyway, kind of crazy. kind of interesting.

but I'm going to show you guys how we're going to fix this for very, very little money and this can help a lot of you guys out as well. So let's go get the main cap off and inspect the mains. I'm looking through the original auction listing from like two or three years ago because it lists. Yeah, here we go.

Everything that was done to the engine looking for oil pump? Yeah, here it is from the seller. Uh, we got a new cam built valve train gaskets. Here we go. Main rod bearings replaced prior to installation into the 996 so has nearly rebuilt for use in this chassis.

Okay, well I don't know if that's true because there's no ARP hardware and they listed that. so did they freshen up the bottom end and not put it together properly I don't know I don't know. Let's take a look at the mains and then we'll measure. We're going to remove a main C cap right now the easiest one right here in the open.

and a lot of times when you have a spun rod bearing, the mains are totally fine. It's usually just the rod bearings that spin, but we'll just double check here I'll break these by hand. There we go seem to be torqued evenly from my torom meter and my arms I am kind of shaking right now. guys.

if the mains are in rough shape then it's not good. but we should be all right. Should be all right. What do we got? What do we got? Okay, yeah, little bit of wear on this bearing.

It's pretty smooth though. this isn't really that bad at all. The important part is the crank, so knock on Porsche bumper that all of the mains on the crank look like that. We are going to be good to go for me to show you guys something.

uh that I've done a few times before, primarily on big heavy duty diesel engines when I work for the city of Chicago Um, but this is something you can do on gasoline engines as well and it's called rolling in Bearings. So we're not only going to replace the easy lower bearings on the crank, but we're going to get the top ones out too. Let me show you, we're going to gently tap this bearing. Like So now on this side, we can roll the bearing out, only contacting the actual bearing cuz we're going to replace this anyway.

Once you get to the oil hole, it gets kind of easy and you can spin it around like think. So There we go. Okay, what do we got? What do we got? What do we got? Okay, nice. This bearing looks much better than the lower bearing.

but what's important is that the crank journals look good. So if we continue on down the line with the mains and they all look like that, we're good to go to roll in new bearings and this could be an excellent option for you guys. If you have a car with a lot of miles that's not worth a lot of money and you get lower oil pressure or in some cases, a spun rod bearing, but it's not knocking yet and the the crank looks okay. if you do the work yourself, you can save yourself literally thousands of dollars because bearings are dirt cheap.

We're going to do this whole job for maybe like a $100 as opposed to taking the engine all apart on spending you know, maybe four or $5,000 at a machine shop and waiting for months. Let's uh, let's get some new bearings and then we have to measure to figure out if they even had the right ones in here to begin with. All right guys, it's Parts day the next day. LS Parts are very readily available so I have all sorts of different bearings that came in in just one day.

So here are a couple of the new: Mains So this is the upper and this is the lower and I got them in a few different measurements. but what we have here on the engine or what we had on the engine, they are 10,000 oversized. So what that means is someone had cut the crank and to make up for it, they had to get a thicker bearing to maintain proper oil pressure. Or this could be the entire reason why the bearing spun in the first place.

If it is a stock Crank that has never been cut and you put thicker bearings, the tolerance gets really tight and if it gets hot it can stick to the crank and spin. So anyway, we're going to go ahead and put in the 10,000 over and then we'll measure with plastic gauge I Use some brake clean and Shop air to clean this crank. Journal So we are ready to go with our bearing and you can see right there that Notch this part of the bearing needs to slide in and they do say upper and lower so pay attention to that and so we need to go this way and roll it around so that this tab lines up there. First things first, we're going to use some engine assembly Lube So at first start will be very well protected and we'll just kind of move this around.

So we hit the entire area of the bearing like that. Now we're going to go ahead and install this bearing on the lower part of the crank. Like so. and there we go.

It'll fit in and we're going to roll. Roll Roll Roll Roll. Roll your bearing gently on the crank. merrily merrily merrily merrily.

What do they say at the end of the merily thing? I Don't I Don't remember. Life is but a dream. Yeah, that's it. Oh, that was weird.

Okay, now let me continue on with my tutorial. You can see that last little bit is going to be tough to do with your finger. so you just get a plastic wedge like this and sometimes you might need to. kind of There we go.

just move it over. wedge it up. Bam. If you go a little bit too far, that's fine.

push it up so it's nice and flush with the block. and congratulations, you've rolled in your first upper bearing. Oh, and one little warning here. this doesn't work on every single engine.

So I'm doing this on an LS and I've done it on a few other ones. Um, but if you're not sure, just do a search on the old Google and see what you come up with because there are some that it's just so tight you can't really roll anything in. In that case, you do have to like drop the crank and disassemble the entire engine. but there are many, many engines that you can do this to.

With the upper bearing rolled in, we can replace the lower bearing so we'll pop that out, break clean this you don't want to lubricate the back side and then we will slide in our lower bearing. like so make sure it's even and that this little guy is in its slot. Now we're going to use a lot more of this soon, but for now, I Just want a little dab like that and we'll just spread it on like so because it's plasy gauge time I Don't know if you can even see that, but we need to do some measuring so this is called plasty gauge. It comes in these little tubes inside of here and then they give you your measurements and you can cut these off with razor blades.

but we want a piece of this about the width of the bearing and we cut it with a razor blade and then go ahead and put it on like that. If it's overhanging a little, that's fine. We have to talk about bolts for two seconds because these can be reused. They're called torque to Angle bolts.

So the four bolts on the bottom of the cap are Torque to Angle Bolts not to be confused with Torque to Yield bolts. You guys may have heard of those mostly in the world of head bolts where they need need to be replaced because you're actually stretching the bolt. After you torque it, you're to torque it to a specific angle that stretches the bolts and they are onetime use Only torque to angle bolts are different. You are still torquing them to a specific angle.

Um, but they can be reused a few times over because they aren't designed to stretch like the torque to yield bolts. So anyway, these are replaceable. So are the side bolts. but GM says to replace these even though there is no angle torque on these.

I Think you torque them to like 16 or 18 foot PBS and call it a day. But they do come from the factory with a sealant. I've cleaned this one already and GM wants you to buy brand new bolts because of the sealant. We're not going to do that though.

we're just going to reeal them now. We're going to go ahead and reinstall our main cap just like that. and we're going to put all of the bolts back in now. I Have all the bolts back in just hand snug and now we're going to do the normal torque spec that we would do on our final assembly and there's a sequence.

So It's 15 ft-lbs on the inner bolts first. Then we tighten the side bolts up to 18 and then 15 on the outer studs and this is going to be our angle torque tool. I'll show you guys how this gets set up so we're going to get that on the bolt and then we're going to rotate. This is just a stopper so you just want to have that hit anything that's not delicate like a crank.

Journal So once that's there, we are going to zero this out. Like so and now. Spec is 80 almost there. All right, that's good.

And then we're just going to go ahead and follow the sequence here. You guys can screenshot this if you have an LS1 engine, but let me get this done. Last one: 53 Okay, cool. All right.

we're done. That one is tightened up to factory spec and now we can just take it all back down again and I like to loosen it in that same order kind of reverse order actually. So we're doing the outers and then we'll loosen up these little side guys and finally the inners get loosened, end up and now we can zip all of these off all right on the last bolt. Make sure you got a hand underneath this cap so it doesn't fall and we pop it off like that.

Cool. Oh, this looks great. Sometimes the plastic GAE sticks to the crank journal. sometimes the bearing doesn't really matter and we're going to take this piece of paper and kind of put it up to it and measure so it looks like in the middle.

We're a little bit less than 3,000 and it's a little thinner, probably in between 4,000 and 3,000 here. Yeah, on the sides and that's normal. so the factory tolerance is definitely tighter than that. But when you build an engine, a lot of times they loosen it up these really tight tolerances that we're seeing in modern-day cars that run oil like a 020.

It's all about efficiency so there's less pumping loss of the engine's oil pump if you use a thinner oil so you get a little bit better fuel economy for this. I Really like that clearance right there because it gives us a little bit more cushion and that means that our oil temperature is going to be reduced compared to factory because the tolerances aren't so tight that it's just heating up. Basically, the oil is the primary cooling method for the bearings. Uh, so that's really important.

So I Am super happy with these specs and we're going to check every single journal, the rod journals, and the mains and just make sure they're just like this and we're going to be good. I Put a little bit of brake clean on this Rag and that takes the plastic gauge right off. You just want to make sure all this is gone. Give this a nice little clean and now we will use copious amounts of engine assembly lube and this stuff is very gooey and very sticky for a reason in case it takes you a few days to work on whatever you're doing, this will still be there for protection.

Now we're going to be doing the mains one at a time. So we want to put this back and torque it and you guys have already seen me do this. So I'm going to go ahead and wrap this guy up. Oh and hang on I Got to show you guys how to properly seal the threads here on our bolt and you just want a thread sealant.

GM makes this as well, but this permex stuff works also. In a pinch you could use some RT V that would work as well, but these bolts are prepped to go back in. This main cap is torqued and done and now I'm going to show you guys how to polish this up. You can see some of that material from the bearing right here.

We want to get rid of that. make this perfect again. And unfortunately you can't do this with the main journals because you can't get to the top side. but if they all look like this one, we're in good shape for our DIY crank polishing.

This is everything we need, including our Dunkin Donuts I'm just kidding, this is transmission fluid because it's an excellent lubricant and we're going to need that for our sandpaper and we have a flat Sho string as well. Uh, so we're going 320, 800,000 and 2,000 First step is wrapping up the 320 and we will soak it like so. So we're going to take our 320 out of our transmission fluid bath and I have cut these to about the same width of the rod Journal here and now we're just going to go ahead and wrap this all the way around and we want to make sure we do this kind of tight like that. Now we can feed in our flat Sho string.

Okay, cool, and we're going to wrap this around a few times with our Sho string wrapped around. We're going to go like this. That's it. and this is giving even pressure all the way around the crank.

Journal because we want to clean top, bottom, side to side every little tiny millimeter of it or thousands of an inch. Whatever flavor you'd like there. and I'm going do this for about 3 to 5 minutes. It's going to be a good time.

get some tunes on and just rock out. Get a little exercise and you're going to feel this right in your shoulder. This, it's a workout. Telling you guys, this is a serious workout.

My timer's about to go off here, but I mean I'm burning right now. This is great. Go out and spin your rod bearings if you want to get a good workout. I'm just kidding.

don't do that. Oh here we go. All right. We'll take this off and this off.

Clean it up. Oh this is looking good. Oh man this is great. Keep in mind this is one of them that's spun so we still have a little bit of material to get there.

I'm going to do another pass with some new 320 but we are getting there. it's it's very smooth. you can't even feel this. So anyway we'll keep going and in roughly 20 minutes when I'm done with all of the stages.

I'll give you a good before and after. I mean my arms are beat but that looks so good. Totally worth it. So this one had a spun rod bearing.

It looked like this afterwards and now it looks like this. It's perfectly smooth. I Did the final stage with the 2000 grit and I got to say I'm really, really happy with how this turned out. so you definitely want to make sure that you're blowing out the oil passages.

Use some brake clean, but this is good. So now we need to plastic gaug just like we did with the main so we'll slap in our new upper bearing. Okay, just like that and we have plastic age on a new bearing. for the bottom.

We'll pull this piston and Rod down. And now these Ls's have cracked rods. Which means that they only go on one way. You'll know if you mess this up.

this has to fit on perfect and see how that disappears right there. That is where you want it to be. Let me show you, just if you get this wrong, how off this would be, That's that's yeah. Okay, don't put one together like that.

That's that's not good. That'll fit right in there. Like So then we'll get our Factory Rod bolts in and torque to Spec. Two passes for torque a 15 foot-pound Now we'll do 85 right there.

and then we'll do the other one. Click All right with that torqued. Now we are just taking this cap back off just like we did before to check our gauge. our plastic gauge.

Okay, here we go. All right. So we have 003 all the way to about 2,000. Yeah, that's pretty good for factory spec.

The factory spec as you could imagine, is just very large. It's less than 1,000, so super tight all the way to 3,000 and that's probably why some of these cars have different oil pressure from the factories because of that. So we're right in there, right in the factory spec. So I'm pretty happy with that and the difference in bearings that you can buy.

They go every 10,000 so it's not like we can really adjust for too much. Anyway, that one I'm super happy with, especially because that one's spun so far so good. Everything's going great so now it's rinse and repeat. I Just got to go down the line and do what you guys just saw over and over again.

So I'll spend about 3ish hours and then we have cool Parts including ARP Rod bolts going in. Main bearings are all done and they got progressively better as we got to the back of the engine and the middle one is a Thrust bearing. These are a little bit harder to roll in, but definitely doable I Removed the starter to get this main cap off, but it doesn't look like you can because the rear cover gets in the way, but that's fine. The bearings were getting much better as we went this way and I checked clearance with the old bearings and they were basically right in.

Spec Anyway, the mains usually don't get really beat up, but uh I finished that up and I polished our crank. so these are looking phenomenal. this I think was the worst one we had and it looks brand new. I Got this guy here this one I just finished and this one here.

everything looks great I Think we're going to be just fine. It's time to get all the rod caps back. so I have the new bearings on. Everything is lubricated and we are going with the ARP Rod bolts.

These bolts are stronger than the factory ones. they're only like 98 bucks and this will technically allow us to rev the engine higher, although I probably won't. We'll just see where it makes power and call it a day. Um, but a nice little upgrade while you're in there.

We're ready for final assembly, so we'll go ahead and snap in our upper part of the bearing like so. And of course, get our engine assembly Lube in here and I like to lubricate the actual crank as well. Make sure our first start is successful. We'll bring this rod in.

now. the ARP Rod bolts require this Fastener assembly lubricant and this makes sure that you're applying even torque so the threads aren't going to get caught up. Then of course we're matching the cap to the rod. so this is our cylinder one cap that we kept in order and we get our airp Rod bolts in there.

You want to get a little bit of this assembly Lube on the head as well so that doesn't cause any friction issues and we can zip them in. I've rolled in the top bearing for the other Rod that sits next to this one so we're bringing it into the mix. That one must have the valves closed. It's much harder to move and I like to have both of the rods on the journal before we torque them so there's no side to side movement.

Now we can to install this cap like so couple ARP bolts going in and we'll snug this guy up and torque spec according to ARP is 40 foot lbs. but you got to be using this lubricant changes everything. If you don't there we go and that's it. I'm going to repeat that for six more rods and then we have our oil pickup our oil pan oil and then fingers are going to be crossed.

Cross them with me people. will we have good oil pressure? Rod Bolts are all torqued. Everything is done here Now we got to move on to the oil pan. It's windage Tray time and we're using the improved racing windage tray as well and they give you these little spacers that go on this side like so except for the one that's going to eventually accept our pickup tube.

With all of these nice Billet adapters installed, we simply rise up like so they give you all new hardware so we can snug that up. We're going to torque these to 18 foot- PBS All right, that's on. I've already cleaned up the pickup, but we'll claim a little bit in here and I did verify that the oil pump has been replaced. It's an LS6 oil pump, so a very common upgrade on these engines.

Uh, and we're going to do multiple oil flushes just to get out anything that was left over from what happened here. But the oil pump looks really good. You want to see? look at how pretty it is inside. We have a new oil pump pickup.

o-ring It's black, there's a couple different color ones. Uh, you just got to verify which one you have, but now we can push this in like that makes a nice little pop noise. It's nice and secure. And we have new hardware for our pickup.

Just like to tighten these by hand. make sure it gets sucked in there properly. Now we have our improved racing flange that's going to give us some clamping force on the other side. Also, just some more cheap insurance.

We're going to torque these to 9 foot-pounds There we go! That's done. And don't forget to torque this nut right here for the pickup and now we're done now. I Do want to replace this starter because it's been kind of beaten on quite a few times. but it's not a factory starter.

I Think it's a mini torque so I have one on order. The car came with another Bosch starter but I don't know if I Trust any of these starters. Click click I Like to turn the crank over a few times and make sure everything's okay and we had to do this a lot when we were spinning things around to clean. just make sure nothing's hitting our new windage tray.

Everything is good and actually you guys that want to do Stroker Ls's with different cranks you need this wage tray. otherwise you got to hack up your factory one. It's not fun, but this clears those and offers a little bit better oiling as well. But yeah, Everything feels great.

We got a lot of cool noises going on here. Compression power. It's probably a good enough time as any to talk about the oil pan baffle that should go in any of these LS engines that are flipped around when they go into cars like the 911. So obviously from the factory you have an oil sump that faces this way.

so as you accelerate the oil kind of Puddles up in the back here in the sump. but then when you stick it in a 911, it sits this way. Now the sump orientation isn't really the whole issue. to be honest with you, it's more that this doesn't have baffles or trap doors like this.

So what this is going to do is once our improved racing oil baffle is installed, it is going to trap all the oil in this area where the pickup tube goes because of these hinged doors. So no matter if you're taking a tight turn on a racetrack, you'll have a door that opens to let oil in, but one that also closes to keep it in. And then same thing with breaking and accelerating with this trap door as well. Now there are quite a few LS swapped 911s at this point and not all of them have a baffle in the oil pan.

I Think most of these builds they just run the stock pan and that's because they're not putting the car on a racetrack. This is really only an issue if your car is turning a lot and oil is slashing around. In fact, the Pontiac GTO with the LS engine has an oil pen that looks like this and you can see the sump is more towards the front of the car. So I don't think it's necessarily an issue with this part being here or a few inches in front.

I Think you just simply need to get a good baffle and these are really good for drag racing as well when you're launching the car if you're pulling the front wheels. So now we have to clean out this disgusting oil pan and install our improved baffle so we have a few tens. Oh, this is so nasty in here. Woo! Oh gross.

Oh, there's chunks. definitely chunks in here. So here's the very bottom. after you spin a few rod bearings yeah, that looks pretty gross and a metallic slime.

e I'm going to use a really dirty rag to soak all this up and then that'll be it. That'll be all she wrote for this guy here. I Just don't want all this getting into my parts washer and making all my parts washer fluid super dirty and nasty. All right.

I'm running low on diesel so the pump won't pick it up so we'll get some diesel going on in here and a brush and we'll scrub a dubdub. Oil pan is all cleaned up, looking pretty and now it's time to make it look even better. With our improved Racing Oil baffle, this should go into every LS oil pan. I mean unless your car is totally stock, but that's kind of rare these days, right? It pops in just like that and then we reuse all of the Hardware Torque spec is 9 ft-lb or you can just snug them up by hand.

You'll be good with this installed. You get a better idea of what's going on here, but the pickup tube is going to be right here. We have our trap doors in all three corners. That's why the baffle is way more important than the pan orientation.

Because of this wall, here, the oil can't slash this way. it can only go in right to the center sump. Now that we have the baffle, and if you look at the Stocker, it doesn't have any slits on the top and then this just allows the oil to slash around everywhere. So not the best design in the world.

This is going to fix most of your oil starvation issues and they recom recommend an extra half cour of oil. This is very common in the Ls world. I Actually run a full qut more on my Turbo TransAm so I'll be doing that on the 911 as well and that also ensures that we don't have any oiling issues now. before our new oil pan gasket goes in, we're going to put a little bit of RTV in the corners right where the front timing cover meets up and the corners of the rear timing cover.

That way we don't get any oil leaks and I've already break cleaned this guy off. but if you wait just a few minutes some stuff will Dr rip down so just make sure it's totally clean. There we go. We're going back in with a much cleaner and much more improved oil pan and I'll leave a link down below for improved racing.

Really cool site. They've been around in the Ls game for a long time. I've used some of their stuff even W for YouTube Anyway, here we go. Always fun getting that first one started there.

We go back it up with another one. Okay, now you can rest for a moment. actually. no I don't want to rest I just want to start this up.

It's getting really late right now. Been at this all day and I don't want to go home until I know the result. I'm like dying to know where this oil pressure is going to be. Let's do this going around, hand tightening all of these and our exhaust is going back up our beautiful fluid motor.

Union Exhaust is going back in except I Dropped the exhaust gasket. That's okay. Oh, this is always fun. I'm a professional.

There we go. Couple threads is good. We'll get another one in there. Got the gasket back in play and now we can connect our six flange bolts and nuts.

There we go. All right. Exhaust is done. Two sensors getting clicked in and our lovely blue tab.

There we go. Just like that, everything is done and backed together. We have our oil pressure gauge reconnected and a cheaper oil filter on there. Uh, let's go fill.

I Went to Walmart and picked up the cheapest possible oil they had. It's a synthetic blend. I Can never find conventional oil like non synthetic. Do They even make regular conventional oil or sell it at the regular part stores anymore? I Don't know, it's always at least synthetic blend.

Most everything's synthetic now. Drink up little buddy. This is just temporary though. Don't worry.

some flush oil. All right. that's good if oil pressure is back. No weird noises, nothing like that.

I think I'm going to do like two flush oil changes. So we'll do this, run it and then and then do it again and then put some AMS oil back in and call it a day. All right, That's all of it. Let's start it.

and here's where it all started. Our mechanical oil pressure gauges connected. We're ready to fire this thing up and and see what happens. We had absolutely no engine noises before.

Our tolerances are good, our bearings are new, our crank is nice and shiny. We should be fine. Let's do this. Come on baby come to life! Yeah Woo Yes! Oh I wish I had a tune.

Oh that's great guys. All right there we go. There we go. Woo! That is awesome.

All right. So we got about 50 at Cold idle and this is about 2500. Yeah, that's great. Woohoo! We did it.

We did it. We got good oil pressure. I'm going to let it warm up though. I've let the Porsche run for about 30 minutes or so.

It's at full oper rating temperatures. Fans have come on and off and here's where we're at: about 25 psi hot idle. That's great. We're going to bring up the RPM a little.

All right, that's good. That's good. We're up to operating temperature, revving it up only to about 3,000 RPM and we're getting like 4550 PSI hot and listen to this engine. No noise whatsoever Sounds absolutely perfect with our awesome exhaust.

We are good guys. This is fantastic. Fantastic news. Uh, except unfortunately I broke off the little fitting there that went to the Porsche Factory oil pressure sensor.

So I can't see the gauge right now and it's like almost impossible to find this fitting. so it's coming in next week. Um, but I'm very very happy with where we're at right now because before at H high idle it was like 10 psi or something like that. All right guys.

I am a happy camper. This thing sounds amazing. The oil pressure is great and I do think in the next episode when I do the final oil change I'm going to run like a 1040 weight because we do have larger oil tolerances for the bearings now and we had them before. As you could see, these were aftermarket bearings someone had cut the crank.

so I don't know what kind of oil they were using before, but it's possible this all happened because they were using to thin of an oil. So I think 1040 would work really nicely in this car. and in the next episode I think we're going to try and rig up an intake, get the back hatch to close and tune it, and really spin up the RPM So for those of you guys who are thinking that this isn't the proper way to rebuild the lower end of an engine, you are correct. it's not proper.

The proper way would be to disassemble the entire engine, send the crank out, send the block out, have a bunch of machine work done, which you know I've done before and I will continue to do on other projects. but for this in this case, in the case of the Grand Ational and many other cars, you can get away with polishing the crank by hand and replacing the bearings. and I think I have about $120 into this and worst case scenario, we spin another bearing later on and we're in the exact same boat that we were in like three days ago so no harm, no fall and then I'll I'll probably improve on the engine, but I don't even want to think about that. Honestly, it sounds great and I think we're good and if you want to find out for sure, tune in for the next video when we rip it on OJ's Dino to maybe 6,800 RPM or something crazy like that.

But anyway, hope you guys enjoyed this video I hope you learned something. You can fix your cars for not that much money and if you did enjoy it, give it a big thumbs up. Share the video with your friends, subscribe if you haven't already, and most importantly, have a fantastic day. I'll see all of you in the next video.

It's something. it's something we're going to. But first we need to verify that the LS7 LS7 But but first we need to. So this is the factory.

Porsche Oil pressure sensor. It's A So this is the some cars have dozens of control units you can code and yeah, this main is all. this main is bolted transmission fluid because that's an exiant. Ah, it's transmission fluid because that is an exec.

Why did I say that again? Exiant? All right. Well, everything you saw is everything you and here's And here's where we All start. And here's where it all started our mechanical oil pressure gauge and Alex is we do have uh higher yeah higher tolerances.