If you guys were around for the last C63 engine video then you know we ended late on a Wednesday evening with only 2 days left before our Dyo appointment and I thought we were going to call it a night, but then we all looked around and saw that we have an ungodly amount of work left to do and that we basically can never stop working so we are going to continue on. We got kind of a second win. We had some pizza and meatballs, so let's do this. First things first for today.

Well I mean tonight, it's still evening right now, but either way, we're getting this engine up in the air to put back on the crossmember. All right, we're up in the air. There we go. Old headbolt coming out, she's floating engine cradle going in.

I Got some new engine mounts and I am going with Factory Replacements because I don't want any vibration and they get a little cover like so this top bolt goes in right here. it's just a 16 mil. There we go Now there are poly motor mount options available. Vrp sell some really good ones and they work great I have them on my E55 they hold up to a ton of power and torque and you don't have to replace them all the time.

Um, but I don't like the fact that they have a little bit of vibration just in drive. It's very minor. Most people are okay with it. um, but it's just a personal preference thing.

I Rather replace my engine mounts realistically probably once every year or two to not have a little bit of vibration and these obviously last much longer. If you don't, you know, put a supercharger on your engine. This pizza was pretty good. All right.

Craig You ready? I'm ready Rusty You ready? I Think so. All right. we're going down here. She comes.

We're nice and slow. Coming down. subpreme is kind of coming up. All right.

Keep going. Um, all right here. There we go. Got it? Yeah, Go down.

Go ahead. Yeah. we're good. We're good.

Woo! We're back back on. We're back on. Yes, this is awesome. Okay, okay.

we have the transmission on a block of wood to kind of level it and then we can scooch it in make life easier on us here. Wow, we are really good. Oh look at that beautiful. um holding it.

it's really light. Okay, yeah, we're good. We did it nice. woo.

Transmission is on. Next up our Spark plugs. We're going one step colder. Here's the part number if you need it and we are not putting any antise on the threads because these come factory coated from NGK and the torque spec is right on the box.

If you have a tapered plug, you're going to seat the plug and then go 1/16th of a turn. But if you have a flat style with a little gasket like we have, you're going to go a half turn and this is what's going to get crushed. These require a 14 mm thin wall and we'll thread these in by hand. So once they're snug, we're going to go a quarter and then another quarter for a half and it is torqued properly.

Headers are about to go in and we have new gaskets, new studs and Rusty is putting a little Loctite on them. So these are the Vrp long tubes and this is going to be the third. C63 I've installed these on. They are fantastic! I'll definitely leave them linked down below and they're very affordable as well.

All right, Sometimes you got to play with these gaskets a little bit and don't bother using the gaskets that come with really any header kit unless they're the multi-layer steel ones. I Always go with the factory header gaskets from Mercedes these those graphite ones. They're horrible. We have brand new exhaust nuts and the studs and the gaskets all came from.

FCP Euro Link down below for them too. It's the next morning so Thursday tomorrow is Dyo day. Uh I Got a little bit of sleep refreshed. ready to go.

We have to have this thing running today so Rusty just slapped on the other side header. We have to tighten up all of the hardware but she's she's looking like an engine. How you feeling Rusty Tired me too. but we're going to plug away and they brought about about 4700 energy drinks too so there's three left.

And speaking of fueling, I know you guys haven't seen much of Craig during the engine build, but he has been very busy on a very intricate fuel system that he designed on his E63 and has had to customized for the C63 Craig What in the world do we have here? We have a Billet top hat that belongs to a Hellcat it's aftermarket option for these guys. It utilizes two 525 Hellcat fuel pumps. We modify it to significantly to not really fit the E63 but work with uh, the E63 C63 We take your factory Mercedes level sensor and we clamp it on to this uh pump setup that used to be inside here with your burnt up Factory pump. This is a brushless pump that's not supposed to get that hot but it looks like it was so there's a good chance this pump was going to fail on us anyway.

So it's a good thing we're replacing this entire unit and I think it's really trick how Craig is able to fit the factory Mercedes level sensor here and with a lot of aftermarket fuel pump options, you have to worry about running low. You don't ever want to be below like a quarter tank and stuff like that. but Craig has set this up to where we will still have fuel to the bottom of these when the gas light comes on and even after that so you never want to run your car low. But in this situation I'll still be safe.

We have the bottom of the back seat out from the cclass in order to access the fuel pump module so that's the old one with the burnt out pump that we removed and this is the inside of the fuel tank and we're ready to go with this guy. All right. So on the this side was the original Factory fuel pumps and they would through this line send the fuel to the driver's side and use a siphon to bring fuel from the driver side back to the passenger side and that's because this is a saddle tank. So here the fuel would come out and go through the factory restrictive line.

But we're going to cap that off because we're no longer going to use the cinder but we want to keep it because we want the factory float to still work and level sensor for this side and the siphon. So the way we built bu this is it will send fuel off the top, the feed to the front but also it will send a little bit of fuel to the other side to make a siphon to send a fuel from the driver side to the passenger side. all Incorporated in here. The fuel pressure regulator in the front will then send fuel back to the return which will drop down here and refill the pumps and cool the pumps also and then we will pull this line just enough, Attach all right So we attach that and this module is meant for a 2015 to 21 Hellcat I Believe they changed it up a little bit in 22 and it's going to fit in our C63 which is pretty neat.

Look at that. that's crazy that it's the exact same size and then you will take the factory ring Factory seals in there for the bang for the buck you can get a $18 Dodge Charger gas uh ring adapter and it will clip in there like so look at that and that is how you know it's done just like Factory Good job! Craig He built this entire thing. lot of time and effort went into it and research and look at how nice and Factory this is. Modern Masters Ladies and gentlemen, plug and place.

This will power the fuel pumps positive and negative to each pump here. So we have the wiring harness run through the trunk right here and it's going to connect to our dual pump controller which we've mounted here. looks nice and Factory and this is pretty neat. We have these ends that we're going to put over the wire and then a special crimp tool and look at that, then these go in through the bottom, then you tighten up this 3mm Allen and you've just made the best connection ever! This is so clean and essentially this controller is a very heavy duty and professional relay system.

so this is going to get our signal to turn the pumps on a low voltage signal and then it's going to get power from these gig gantic wires here. and that leads to a really big circuit breaker that mounts using a factory stud. This is so clean and that is connected directly to the battery. Next up is attaching the snout to the blower and it comes packaged up with some tape so there's no contamination.

Look at these beautiful rotors, look at this so pretty. It's snout time and this is sealed up with the same kind of Rubber seal that we have here and I Love how all the hardware for the Vrp kit is labeled and it's all attached so you don't lose anything. This is really nice. Lock tight on all the bolts Rusty torque.

It's time to attach the mid plate and the runners to the Supercharger so we're just going to go ahead and flip this conglomeration of stuff onto here like that. And then we have bolts with locktite going through like this. Snug these up with the gun and I'm going to make quite a few passes here just to make sure everything is seated. I've gone around a few times.

everything is nice and tight. We are good. Craig's doing a phenomenal job with the fuel lines. This is so cool! So these are running from the pump that you guys saw us install and what's really nice is he's able to use these Factory studs that aren't doing anything.

these hold a plastic panel on, but these just sit here doing nothing. And we believe these would be for fuel lines possibly on the right-and drive variant and they just put them on the body of all the C-classes but we're using it to run gigantic fuel lines all the way to the front. We got a nice grommet going in a factory hole that was already there and we drilled Out The Grommet a little bit to fit these fuel lines so they wrap in like this and it'll all be covered up by the fender liner. Next up, we have to replace our bad camshaft adjuster plates with our new bill plates from Vrp and I showed this in the very first video, but the cam shaft adjusters were getting loose.

It wasn't bad enough to set a check engine light or anything like that, but if they're moving like this, it's only a matter of time before this kind of stuff develops. So you can see here this has been wobbled out a little bit by a pin. So here's our Factory cam shaft adjuster. These are about $1,000 from Mercedes but you can fix really the only issue with these with these Billet plates.

So you have five T30s, set these off to the side and we'll pop the top plate off and then we're going to pull this off and we're going to pull this out. There we go. Aha something. I Wanted to show you guys there's a spring and a little black cap that can pop out and they will so just make sure that stays inside like that.

I Was just about to tell you guys not to drop something else and then I ended up dropping it. Check this out. This little metal dowel can pop out and you don't want to lose it. And look where it landed.

It must have bounced on the ground and then landed right here where the wheel lock is on my toolbox. So anyway, don't lose that. Now the part that we're going to be replacing is right here. It kind of twists off, it actually gets held in with the oil.

and let's take a look at the condition here. that's not bad. 85,000 Mi It's definitely starting to wear I've seen much worse but a cheap insurance policy, especially because of all the boosted power. look at, it's crying a tear of old oil.

So here's our new plate. This is where the dowel fits in and this one is much stronger so it won't wear out like the other ones. We're going to go back together with our new part and you can see there's a dowel there and a hole right there so you know how these fit together. There we go, new plates installed, we're going back together with the rotor so we want to make sure that this Valley lines up with where the Locking pin is going to be.

So this fits in like that, nice and flush. and now we can slide the Locking pin in like that. Now we have the spring that goes over the Locking pin and this black plastic cap just like that. Now the top piece gets installed like this: reinstall your 5 t30s.

I'm going to add a little bit of Loctite to these bolts here and I've cleaned these as well. Now you can go back together with the gear. It doesn't matter which way this goes and we're going to Snug these up for now now in a visce we are going to torque these guys to 15 Newt MERS and it's good to go in a star pattern and congratulations, you've just rebuilt your own camshaft adjuster. Saved yourself a ton of money and you can do this with the engine still in the car.

Just pop the valve covers off, it's not that bad. One last thing is you need to replace this very very thin washer here and these do actually wear out. They have kind of a grip to them and if you forget this or yours is bad, it'll leak. Oil pressure in the adjuster won't work and here is our new one.

Going in just fits in like that. We didn't like how this cam was turning so we took it off and us this paste assembly. Lube I Think that might work a little better except Rusty can't get it off of his hands. So we're going to try out the legit Three Cars Hand SL Shop wipe a look at that I Used the regular Shop soap and it did not touch it, just taking it right off.

I Don't even use our orange hand soap stuff in the sink anymore. This is the only way to go. Just like that, they're perfectly clean. No more 10 man.

I Still wear gloves but these always rip and your hands get dirty and sometimes there's jobs you don't want to do with gloves on. and they're really expensive and you can get 20% off the legit street cars shop wipes right now by clicking on the link down below. These are made in the USA Right now we're going to time the engine so Rusty is going to move the cam shaft and we're going to stick in our cam timing tool and that one's in too. Okay so this only goes in one way.

So now we're holding the cam shafts in time exactly where they need to be with our crank. at 40 this, Mark on the timing cover and 40 lines up so right there the crank. the bottom end is in time with this side. Now we have to lock these gears together and another special tool and you can see the teeth on there are going to clamp down.

Now we have a reluctor wheel and a new cam bolt. You have to replace those slides right into the cam shaft and we've meshed the gears here and here so we finished everything we needed to finish with the chain in the last video that's on and tensioned properly. Now you're just going gear to gear. Second adjuster is going on and these gears spline together with the idler as well.

So basically it's one gear spinning two. Once the adjusters are on, you can remove this tool in exchange for this tool. so this will also put the cams in time. but we're primarily using this to hold the cam shafts in the front.

They're already being held in the back because we need to put some serious torque on these bolts. The last specialty tool to set up the timing on the M1156 is this red tool here and it has these dowels and that sets up exactly where these tone rings need to be so you can spin these around and fit them into the dowels and when they all fit, you're good. Torque spec is 45 Newt m so I'll hit both of them and then 90. This is why you have to replace these bolts.

Okay, that's done. We'll take the tools off, do the other side and the engine is timed with the engine in time. It's time for us to install these, the cam shaft adjusters with the sensor and I've already installed a new seal these slide on and they're a little tricky. You got to kind of finagle.

You guys use the term finagle where you live. it's just kind of a general term for like mess with you got to play with it I Don't know what are some other words for finagle? Oh I Finagled it. Yes, that was a successful finagle drink every time. I Say Finagle Finagle, Finagle, Finagle, Tighten up these T30s H My gloves ripped.

This always happens. Looks like we're fixing an oil leak right in here too. If you guys are getting an oil leak in the front of your engine like this, you're in luck because the seal is cheap and it's very easy to replace. You don't have to do anything with the engine timing and a couple other common points of a leakage would be this oil filter housing assembly.

The seal in there can leak and the oil pressure port can leak as well. This is easy. Plug these in. new oil filter going in.

I Got to say I'm so excited about this refresh that we're doing to this engine. Rebuilt camshaft adjusters, brand new cams, new timing chain, all new guides, new chain tensioner, new belt tensioner, new idler pulley. We're going to get new valve cover, gaskets, the whole bottom end is all resealed. Oh and how can I forget my black series lifters that are hiding and there There you go there they are.

New headers, new engine mounts, new new everything. Right now we're installing the torque converter bolts. Actually technically this is not a torque converter. this is the wet clutch system from Mercedes The MCT transmission just finished up tightening all these bolts.

Now we have this beauty cover. It's actually not that beautiful at all. It's horrible. Color kind of looks like the Porsche color.

Next is the installation of the valve covers. So new gaskets and new bolts. so you can kind of tap these out with a mallet like that. and then you're shooting bullets at your engine.

Basically, that's not a good idea. Let's shoot bullets this way. There we go. Now we're getting all new seals on these valve covers.

Then we have our new seal that goes around the perimeter. Got to keep that oil in, stay in. Then the new bolts just slide in like this and they stay there. They don't come out.

It's really nice they themselves. Now we get to install our beautiful black plastic valve covers that say AMG here and here and here. Just in case you forget, ladies and gentlemen, it's Supercharger time now. Hang on.

We can't install this Whipple supercharger without filling it with oil. And if you guys are curious, this is a Gen 5 3 l supercharger from Whipple and it's actually going to be upside down so we have to put the oil in it now. Almost lost the drain plug there, otherwise we won't be able to get to it once. we bolted on the motor.

So oil's going to go in here and you can see the sight glass. So this will tell us when we need to stop. There we go, We see our oil coming in and filling up. Why does this remind me of a submarine for some reason? I don't know and we're getting there.

Go Go Go Submarine. It's filling up. Ah, get out. We'll turn these rotors a little bit.

Let's get this oil everywhere and make sure the level is still good. Yeah, you wanted about 3/4 of the way. I'm just going to add a little bit more. There we go.

That's really nice right there. Then when you're done, you just go ahead and reinstall your legit street cars sticker like that and this like that. Perfect. I'm just kidding about the stickers I Don't want those flying off anywhere and now we flip this guy upside down.

Here we go. it's on. That was easy. Look at that.

Wow, this is cool. My gosh. wait till we get the lid. Actually you know what would be really cool? A clear lid.

How cool would it be if we could see this while while the engine was running? That'd be amazing. But look at how much room we have right now. This is really nice. We've done a lot of little cleanups here and you can see around back as well.

Lots of room under here. This is going to be good for heat dissipation as well. and here is our map sensor. We got an extender for that so we can plug it in and we're going to be running a catch can also.

So we've connected this with some fittings, we're going to be bouncing around quite a bit now just installing odds and ends everywhere. Like our coil packs, coils are all done. Craig is installing a fitting for the fuel pressure regulator that's going to sit in this area and we are going to make a custom bracket for it. With this, we have the heat exchanger installed as well.

We have to wait until the radiator is back up to its normal level for its final installation, but this is where it's going to sit. Looks pretty cool and we got the supercharger pulley on and we're going to test fit a belt that I just picked up at the auto parts store. Let's see if we're close. Oh, might be okay.

Yeah, woo, belt fits. We still have the pin in the tensioner. We'll wait to pull that and this pulley. It's a griptech pulley so the grooves here are super grippy so we don't get any slip of the belt and this pulley should put us around about 10 psi of boost.

Craig's installing Billet coolant blocks with fittings to work with our Hellcat intercoolers that are going in soon and you can start to see the intake tubing. The throttle bodies are going to be here in there. I'm going to bolt down the blower now. so we have Loctite and RTV on the head of the bolt and they just sit in like that.

Rusty How you feeling on this fine? Thursday Evening? Uh, worn out? Yeah, tell me about it. It's another late night. it's like 7 or 8:00 or something. Now we're doing like I don't know.

at least 12 hours a day? There's just an insane amount of work. I mean tomorrow is the dyno? This is the engine right now and it is late and cold. You all right hanging in there? Yeah, this is the Uh fuel. Department right here with millions of little fittings and hoses and whatnot.

Five days is not enough time to do this entire job. Let me let me tell you. Well, as if we didn't have enough time already, we found a broken intake bolt in these heads. Remember, these aren't the heads from my car and they were at the machine shop and I guess they missed a broken bolt in them so we had to take the blower off.

We're going to leave this sty pin in there. Spring-loaded center punch. It work. Yeah, it's pretty good.

Springloaded center punch is the best if you guys don't have a reverse drill bit set. I Highly recommend them. They work really, really well. We have a little bit of lubricant in there, some penetrating oil.

We went to a larger drill bit and it's coming right out now so you drill a hole right through the center and then the larger one will make it stick. Disaster averted. Blower bolts are in including that one one. Everything is torqued.

This guy is merried to the engine whether it likes it or not. Craig likes it I love it I love it. Next we have our intercoolers and these are from a Hellcat These are ordered right from Dodge No modifications done at all. The supercharger kit was basically built around these intercoolers or at least this portion of it and these slide in with these rubber gaskets.

You have to have them lubricated and it is a very nice and tight fit just like that. Here's what it looks like with both of them installed nice and Factory like. So before the blower lid goes on, we installed this Rubber seal and we're doing a little bit of RTV as well so we can hold all the Boost in our Beauty cover is going on. This could not look any better.

I I Love it I Love it Vrp Excellent job on the top of this lid. I Love these V's They're kind of Cadillac like or for some reason they remind me of Predator Remember the movie Predator I don't I don't know why. just weird like that. So Craig who has been Manning all of the fuel system is going to show us how how he adds the fuel fittings to the lines.

So use this awesome tool right here that goes around, goes inside and then goes around the plastic liner inside and pushes back the braided line and you just give it like a little L tap to ream it down and then it makes plenty of room to insert the cullet or the feral. You get that in there and you can see inside where the plastic liner is. You want that to come all the way up to mate with the top of this feral? So then you'll take this piece and you can use just a smoooth one. Put this in there actually I Like to just lubricate it a little bit with some D J grease.

Put that in there and then you can give her a couple love taps with the hammer so you can see where the plastic liner is perfectly made it to the top of the feral there and then you'll take your a in inside fitting and you lubricate the shaft and the threads. Um they suggest oil at a minimum but I like dialectric grease cuz it can literally mix with anything without hurting anything you want that nice and lubricated more the better. Slide that down inside to where it madees to the top of the threads and just so you don't mess up the threads or force it I even lubricate the line here. so when it when this piece comes up to match the top, it doesn't dry and mess up the thread so it comes up nice and then you'll secure the bottom.

it's easier to do. Um, at my shop on the Press we have two A in clamps and they're anodized so they'll grab this without scratching it. You can hold it real tight and then you can get your a in wrench on. And now we're just tightening the two fittings together so that will secure the collet into the plastic line, making a leak proof high pressure fitting here.

All right, we are ready to get this engine back in. Obviously there are lots of little odds and ends we still have to do, but we need the engine in there to do them. It's things like running lines that need to be a specific length and whatnot. but yeah, this is a, uh, quite the unit that is going in this pretty small.

C63 A few short days ago I was in this exact same position going this way with the old engine and after taking a lot of this apart and installing a lot of Go Fast goodies, we are ready to go back in. This is very very exciting. Okay I think I might have missed my mark. Yeah, right about there is I'm a DeLorean guy remember I still have to the DeLorean song still get stuck in my head I Got to say, it's really cool having this in the background while we do.

all of this engine's going back in. we're lifting it back up now. Man is this table. sweet guys.

I Got to say I'll leave a link down below it was from Amazon I Got to say this is a very tight fit. Do you see this? Look at where the frame is. If you guys have been watching the channel for a while, you know that I had to drill out and replace the header studs on one of these engines in my old white. C63 With the engine in it was a nightmare.

We're going up very low clearance here, but it fits. Supposedly there we go. Here we go. Radiator has sit down into the subframe that's lined up.

These are looking very lined up. Going to start threading some bolts in. Now look at that lineup. That's great.

We're going to start lifting the car off the table. There we go. Oh yeah, we're We're off. Table is not supporting anything.

We've reinstalled the engine folks before we remove the table. we're going back together with the drive shaft. so I have the flex joint in there I did have it in there and now I just popped it out There We go. we can start our bolts all right.

Flex Disc is all torqued up. now. we have the trans mount and bracket and these use magnesium bolts. For some reason they're very light like out of all places to use a very light.

magnesium bolt. Why Why here? Transc cross member going in. All right, this kind of stuff. it's it's just like Legos just bolts, nuts, nuts and bolts done.

I Mean that's done. We still got a lot of work to do and it's like 9:00 at night now. Table's coming out. Thank you Table! You are amazing and I will use you again right after I Clean you I'm going to work on getting some of the steering and suspension back together.

We'll start off with this thrust arm, one gigantic bolt going in and we'll get this lower control arm in as well. little Hammer This tie rod was an absolute nightmare to remove. Both sides were just so easy to get back in though these trans lines keep on leaking on my hair. Go back in.

no more steering and suspension is done all right. So we have an engine installed, the transmission crossmember, the drive shaft, and the suspension we're getting there. This is so surreal to me. This is my C63 AMG and if you guys have been following the last few videos then you know it's just been like 3 days since we drove this in and it was just a normal C63 Running and driving with no issues and now it has this and the engine modifications and an insane fuel system that we need to finish up.

There are lots of odds and ends that need to to be done, but wow, it's funny. I've been doing this stuff for over 20 years and I'm always so optimistic in the beginning of a project. I mean I still am we're doing really good but in the beginning I'm like yeah, we're going to be done in like two days and Rusty and Craig are on the same page. We're like yeah, one day we'll drop the engine, the next day we'll just wrap it all back up, put it in, and here we are Like 4 days in.

Still an insane amount of work to be done and it is about 11:00 at night. I Have the appointment for the dyno tomorrow early afternoon and uh yeah, this isn't running yet. but uh, stay tuned for the next video where we will hopefully get it to run and drive without any issues at all. Knock on air.

We're going to have so many issues I'm sure and then it's going to go on the dyno. Hope, hopefully again. I I Don't know at this point but either way I Hope to see you guys there and if you enjoyed this video, give it a big thumbs up. Share the video with your friends, subscribe If you like content like this and most importantly, have a fantastic day.

I'll see all of you in the next video Max Here's some B-roll uh while Craig is talking so we don't have to look at his face the entire time. you know we'll limit his face to about like 20% Face: Have a nice face. Okay, it is a beautiful face. Say good jawline, good beard.

It's been through a lot. This snout utilizes a seal just like the snout utilizes a and I love how all the little tiny parts for the and I love how all the little parts for the RP kit they're and I loved how and I love how all the little Parts Hardware Let's just see what happens here. Craig Max You might have to edit this out for vulgarity. Oh jeez, that ruin.

Now you're out. You're out. Now we we have to do the other one on camera. Cut that out Max and Alex is texting Rusty is walking around I'm going to start working on getting the suspension and steering back together.

Okay, that's a great start.