Previously, on legit street cars, i showed you guys how to clean pistons using a wax string. I also cleaned up the cylinder heads on my svt lightning, and everything was going great. Well, at least that's how i made it look in the video. The reality was deep down inside.

I was not doing great cl65 alex alex. We got ta record dude, oh yeah, okay, get it together, get it together, come on all right, all right! So now we're gon na clean up the cylinder head with some good old carbon choke cleaner, come on dude we got ta. Do it got ta finish the video just another another? You know, while filming that video i found catastrophic damage to my svt lightning engine and since the video was about showing you how to clean the engine and the damage didn't affect that, i sucked it up, put a smile on my face and continued on. So in this video i'm going to remove my svt lightning engine put it on a stand, fully, disassemble it and see.

If there's anything we can save and then after that, we're going to celebrate because i have a bad engine that just means i can make it go much faster, so i was bummed for yeah like about one second after i found what i'm gon na show you Guys but then i'm like wait a minute wait a minute. We can build a forged motor and then get a ported blower and and then i went out and got a ported blower. Let me show you so like, within 24 hours of finding out that my engine's basically screwed, i went and got this a used, ported blower. It needs to be repainted um, but yeah.

This thing is all ported: the upper intake, the blower, and then this is filled with epoxy. So now the lightning is gon na do one of these every time i rev it up, even at idle it's gon na what so originally i was just gon na replace the head gaskets. Then i got the heads off and i'm like i got ta. Do some long tube headers and i wasn't really planning on building the motor, but i definitely wanted to and not that i needed an excuse, but this just makes me feel so much better.

I'm just hoping we can reuse the block. That would be nice. The block and the crank - that's all i want that's all i want from you five four and i was going to do this part anyway, even if i wasn't going to build the motor, because i was going to replace the oil pan gasket and the engine mounts, But now we're going to get it on the engine, stand flip it around and be able to replace everything. This thing is going to be sweet.

This transmission is absolutely ginormous. I believe this is the same trans that was in the uh super duty. Diesel trucks, at the time they needed something that could hold up and a big transmission out of a diesel truck, would definitely work for that there we go yay, it's out all right. You guys want to see it.

You want to see what i found in that video before i show you who actually saw it in the previous video, because there is maybe like one or two seconds in a frame where you can see it. Sort of, and a couple guys saw like literally two out of like a couple hundred thousand saw it. So let me know in the comment section if you know what it is right now, no cheating - and here it is here - is the issue with my engine right. There we're missing something right right, there's a little void.

It's it's larger than the rest. That is the piston. The piston has come apart. You can actually see the ring in there that's kind of mangled as well, so we're gon na get a much better.

Look at this carnage once we pop this piston out here in a few minutes, but the cylinder wall may have been damaged a little bit and i think it can be honed and bored out and fixed. But we won't know until we kind of disassemble like everything and just get a really good look at it. Another reason why i want to just rebuild this engine anyway is: there is a decent amount of cylinder scoring here, as you can see, so this thing was just overall not in the best of condition, if you guys have been around since the beginning of the lightning Series you know that we had a lot of rust in the block as well. It took me, like 20 coolant flushes to get it sort of clean - it's still rusty in there.

So there are just a lot of things pointing to this is an excellent candidate to rebuild, and now this one is staring us in the face. Saying rebuild me rebuild me: i just pulled the piston up a little bit more, so you can see it and then yeah. If we go all the way down and you can really see the rings are just destroyed. Look at that.

So there was definitely some detonation that happened with this motor, but yeah right in here you can see, see that right there there's some scoring in the cylinder. A lot of them are scored up. Look at right in here too. You can see so anyway.

Let's get this huge transmission off and get the engine on a stand. I wonder if keeps would regrow the piston. Let's give that a try uh, i guess it's just for your head. Well, apparently, putting keeps on the dome of a piston won't prevent piston loss, but it can help the two out of three men by the age of 35, who experience some form of male pattern.

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I want to get to this motor too, but okay, now, let's get this starter off well, someone's definitely been in there. Look at this torque converter nut. It's kind of mangled. I think they tried to remove those converter nuts through the starter, which is what i was thinking too, but there is a nice rubber plug here that gives you access to the converter nuts.

Oh, this is perfect. Thank you, ford. Thank you. So much you're the best i mean many parts of this engine don't hold up very well, but you're the best for giving us this little plug all right.

First converter nut all right! So there's six of these! This is the last one. So far, so good nice, all right last thing you want to do - is strip out torque converter nuts, but we are golden all right. It's time to remove this transmission, all right, separate there. We go all right.

Let's get this thing out of here and we will put it on the stand. I'm excited to see what the oil looks like too and to see if the bearings the rod bearings got, beat up, because clearly this was detonation. So aside from melting and breaking pistons, you can also beat up the bearings pretty good. So i'm curious to see what those look like and the common failure point with these motors.

Once you add a little bit of boost and power are the rods the rods can break, and we didn't have that. We had kind of an uncommon failure. I guess, but a bad tune will destroy any pistons, even forged ones. All right.

We got some writing here on the flex plate o20702 yeah. Let's get this flex plate off all right, we're gon na remove the flex plate right now and on a lot of these, you don't have to mark anything, but i just like to put stuff back together the way it came apart and we're going to scribe that Too, because we probably have to send this crank out, i'm just going to make a little line here and we'll do the same here at the back of the crank there we go and now it looks like we have a little spacer plate there and let's take A look at this rear main it definitely had a little bit of seepage there. Nothing too crazy, but it'll be nice to get a new one in there all right. The last time i used the engine stand was for the caprice and it looks like we'll be able to use these same bolts that we used on that one too same thread and everything all right, so you got to be smarter than the stand always bring.

The stand up to the engine - and this is always missing so cutoff head bolt - works. She's, landed excellent, our first ford motor on a stand here at legit street cars. Something tells me this. This won't be the last.

So i just use old head bolts to lift our engine out in the front, so we're gon na be putting studs in this motor. So these have bolts. We can use for a tool so lift the engine out supposed to replace these anyway. So they're garbage these self levelers are really nice.

I highly recommend them. You can move it around so that your engine is flat, especially when you're taking it out with the trans. You can move it all the way to one end and then the trans will come out sort of even it's still going to drag it down a little bit, but these are really nice all right and then another great add-on. If you're doing engine work is one of these drain pans, so it fits in right here and then we flip the engine over there's gon na be some drippage from oil and coolant that's left over, so this will catch it.

Now, let's get these hoses off of the oil cooler, so these are coolant hoses that go into this housing and keep the oil in check on some cars. They have a thermostat for this system so that the oil warms up to a certain temperature quickly, because you want your oil to be at the proper operating temperature. Having super cooled engine oil is definitely not good. That's why you're not supposed to beat on a car until you've gotten that oil up to operating temperature, so i said it's fine to break the seal of hoses that have been on for a long time possible.

These have never been off. This truck only has 85 000 miles and, if you guys missed it in the last video i found out from a subscriber who ran the vin that this engine was replaced in 2003, when the lightning had only 400 miles. It had a bottom end, noise and that's why we have the updated cylinder heads with the eight threads per spark plug um. They had an issue with the four threads where they would pop spark plugs out all right.

We're gon na flip this engine over and at this point, you're gon na, see why this drain pan is so nice. Oh look at that nasty coolant. I flushed this thing so many times, and it's still got that rust. Look to it well because it's literally got rust in it.

There we go all right, so next up we're going to remove the engine mounts which look to be in really good shape. So all of this is just kind of flaking off, but there's nothing wrong with the actual rubber. So these solid rubber mounts can last like the lifetime of the vehicle. In some cases, it's the hydraulic-filled mounts that usually have issues so easy with the engine out.

So i don't know if i'm going to do poly engine mounts or not. I'm really not a big fan of transferring a bunch of vibration into the cab. But let me know in the comments section: if you guys have one of these ford truck engines with the poly mounts, is it worth it? Is it too shaky inside? I don't know, i got them on the turbo. Trans am and they're not that bad, but i don't think we need to replace them because of deficiencies and strength.

These are going to hold up fine, so i'm stripping this down to a bare block, because we have to send it out just hoping it can be reused, i'm sure it can be. So this is a really nice gasket right here awesome. So i don't know if these have too many issues leaking when you see these really nice, thick ones with the rubber o-rings built in they're, usually pretty good, but anything can get brittle and start to leak. So i'm glad we're replacing this that's for sure.

This looks to be a little difficult to do with the engine inside the cab. Something else i'm really happy about is being able to clean all this look at this uh. This is so bad. I don't know if we would have ever been able to flush this out.

Okay, so it's oil pan time right now, so we're getting closer to pulling these rods and pistons out getting closer to some more carnage. I'm really excited to see what the rings look like, because they they look melted and although this carnage is gon na cost me a little bit, it's still fun to see all right. I've already accepted it. It's bad.

I get to build it. We might as well enjoy some carnage. Maybe we'll have something to hang up on the wall. Who knows so easy with the engine out all right.

Let's see we got the bottom of the oil pan, so we're gon na have a little bit of cooling in here. Just from this thing, being disassembled and coolant kind of leaking all over the place, i'm not worried about that. Um. We have sludge again.

This thing has been disassembled now for a while with coolant leaking everywhere. So i'm not really too concerned about this. We don't have any metal, i don't feel any metal at all yeah. I don't really see any shiny, glittery stuff.

Okay, all right cool, not bad! Oh and i got ta mention the massive sail on sonic tools, real quick because it ends in a few days, but they are having a blowout father's day, sale up to 30 percent off these tools are great. I've been using them for about a year now here at legit street quarters, and one of my favorite parts is the tool organization from sonic. So it comes with these foam liners and they're all labeled. So you always know where your tools go.

These tools come with a lifetime warranty and you don't have to wait for a tool truck any longer. In some cases, you can just send a picture in of the broken tool and they'll mail. You a new one in 24 hours, so i'll leave a link down below check out sonic tools, another very nice gasket ford. I like it, it's getting replaced, that's for sure, but these are sweet.

Let's remove the pickup next and i think you can replace the oil pump with the oil pan on you. Just have to be really sneaky with probably just this one here. I think you can access this guy on the ls engines. I've done you always put a magnet in this area, just in case it falls all right.

Let's pop this guy out, we have an o-ring and let's see how bad this o-ring is. You guys watch my mercedes content. Then, a couple of years ago someone had made a video about the pickup o-ring for the m113k engine. That's in my e55 and a bunch of other cars would get hard and cause oil pressure issues, and that is not the case for this and honestly, i don't think it was the case for the mercedes either.

I think that was really rare. I had never seen an issue with that before in my life yeah, this o-ring looks good all right, let's remove our crank sprocket and this is only going to go on one way because it's key weight, so we don't have to worry about anything there and now We can remove our factory ford oil pump and i read online that you can use the gt500 oil pump on this engine and it's a higher volume higher flow pump and it works well in the lightning engines, especially after you build them up. So we're definitely going to do that. It's only like 80 bucks or something too so a nice little upgrade, and since we're gon na need to turn the crank, we could just put the bolt back in, but a 32 millimeter six point fits perfectly over and it uses that keyway and we're not applying Any real force to anything at this point it'll be really easy to spin the motor.

So at this point we're going to start from the back so we'll just expose both of these sets of rod. Bolts here - and i believe this is an 11 yep - an 11 mil there - we go and i'm gon na say these fine-tooth ratchets from sonic are absolutely amazing. Some of the best ratchets i've ever used all right. So i'll go ahead and take these bolts out and there we go very nice.

Let's take a look at this, bearing that's in great shape. 85 000 miles, looking really nice, so these are cracked connecting rods. So if you look here at the side profile, this isn't perfect at all. It literally looks like it was cracked, and these connecting rods are made as one piece and then they are precision cracked, so they don't just cut them flat.

They break the connecting rod and then the two pieces fit together perfectly. It's kind of like a fingerprint. No two connecting rods are going to be the same because of this method, and because these fit together perfectly, it adds a lot to the strength of the connecting rod. So, even though the connecting rods are the weak point of the svt lightning, it's not because the caps are coming apart.

All right at this point we're going to remove this connecting rod and piston and you'll see a lot of guys smack this with the other end of the hammer which is fine, but for the initial removal off the crank. I like to use my two fingers here. Like this, so we're protecting the journal of the crank, because the last thing you want to do is have it halfway down and then it smacks the crank journal and causes a scratch once it gets. To this point, we're pretty much clear as far as it damaging anything in a lot of cases, you can just use your hands to push this entire thing out, so i'm not hitting it with anything, i'm literally just pushing there.

We go it's a boy. It's a boy all right now at this point, i'm going to turn the piston on the wrist pin, so that we have full control of the other end of the rod. We don't want to just scrape it down the cylinder wall. Okay, not a lot of clearance.

There, but you can do it, you can get it out without scratching anything, it's hard to see on camera, but this connecting rod has 590 written on it. If you see here this end, does not have the 590 stand, so you know this connecting rod. Cap goes this way, and this is really cool. You can see the crack and it's perfect right there.

So if you have it off a little bit slide it in it's got to basically disappear. You know you're good, when you really can barely see it. So that's how you put the cap back and then these pistons are marked with a little arrow. I didn't clean all of them, because these are essentially junk pistons.

At this point there we go and this arrow is going to point to the front of the engine. So you can't really mess this up when you're putting it back together. You got your arrow right there and then it would go back in just like this another bit of svt lightning technology. That's used in a lot of engines is a full floating wrist pin.

So this is our wrist pin here, and some engines have a semi floating wrist, pin where it's fixed in the rod and it pivots in the piston. But as you can see here, if we hold this it'll pivot independently on the wrist pin and it spins. Also in the piston, so this is a full floating wristband check out the condition of this piston. It was coated.

Some of the coating has come off. That's pretty typical at 85 000 miles. This isn't really in that bad of shape, but yeah you can see here. The coating is pretty much all gone where it matters, but overall the rings look good.

We have the bottom oil ring and then the two top compression rings, and when you set these back up, you don't ever want it to look like that. These have to be opposite of each other, all right, let's get through these rods and pistons. We only have a couple left to go before we get to our suspect and by suspect i mean completely destroyed and melted piston, another perfectly good. Bearing so just remember, when you're pushing this down, you can use two hands, you can use two fingers get it past.

The crank that's the most important part, oh wow, look at this. We found another messed up, piston, oh, that is chewed up wow. I didn't see that from the top. This piston is not good, so this one was about to blow out the ring land.

So, typically, when you have detonation you blow out the ring land, which is this part of the piston all the way around here and then it just exposes this top compression ring, and this was getting eaten alive. Look at this. This is just rough. Like 80 grit sandpaper, it's literally got chunks coming out engine carnage.

I love it. I love it you're getting replaced little buddy, that's right! All right! Let's just take a look at the crank journal here and it's looking really. Nice can't feel anything which is expected. After taking a look at those bearings so so far so good, i mean we definitely had a little bit of detonation or something going on with that rod and it didn't beat the crank up at all.

I like that, all right, so i'm just going to bring the next two up here to the top. I thought we were only going to get one piston with carnage, but apparently not we could have a lot of carnage on everything. Let's just hope. The block is.

Okay, although i think i'm gon na get it board, probably like 10 over anyway, so it'd have to be a pretty deep scratch to condemn this block, but not 100. Sure. Let me know in the comments guys, but is the svt lightning engine the same block as all of the other trucks that this engine came in? I think they just added a forged crank to the lightning and then different pistons for compression ratio reasons, maybe slightly stronger rods, i'm not really sure, but the block could be the same all right. So this bearing stayed with the crank no biggie.

Are we gon na? Have more piston carnage, little guy hey, i think we got a good piston good job. Little buddy, you survived yeah a lot less wear on the skirts too. Look at that the coating is still intact. Well, at least on that side.

Yeah, there's definitely a decent amount of wear here going on, but uh this one survived the bad tune or bad fuel or whatever was going on with this motor good job piston and if you're ever wondering, if you put the wrong rod cap on it, might look Something like this: if you see this, that's bad, but if you see this, where it completely disappears, that's good. I think we're only a rod or two away from the really bad one. Oh this one's rough too. It's amazing how well this motor ran.

So i drove it, i think four or five thousand miles with the semi-bed head gasket. That would only show its symptoms. If you got into boost it, would pressurize the cooling system and blow cooling all over the place, but other than that it would never overheat. You could drive it from here to california, no issues whatsoever.

This thing didn't blow any smoke, it didn't use any oil and i'm sure the pistons have been bad for a really long time. I mean a lot of them. This is really rough around the edges. It's just crazy, you would never you'd, never know all right.

Let's take a look at these bearings first, so this is the bearing on the side that has the really bad piston. It's got some wear nothing too bad, though, usually, when you see the bearings destroyed from detonation, they have a clear shiny spot in the middle. You can see the wear marks where the detonation is just making this bearing just beat itself up on the crank all right. I'm going to flip the engine around for this guy.

I want to take the piston out and then really get a good look at the cylinder walls see if they're scraped up all right guys, it's super carnage pissed in time. Let's get this guy out of here. So bad, oh, okay, hello! Well, i got a piece of ring here. That's nice! Oh man, look at this! This is so bad.

Get out of my block. Wow! Look at this. It looks like a smiley face, hello, hello, governor. Oh, this is horrible.

I cannot believe how well this engine ran. It didn't use any oil. I drove it like four or five thousand miles, something like that, probably with a piston like this and honestly, the fact that it had a blown head gasket where i couldn't get into boost. Otherwise, it would pressurize the cooling system probably saved everything here, because i wasn't able to beat on it to kind of finish the job, because this ring land is just about to snap off completely.

This is so bad yeah. Look at this just flaring up. It's just been melted and disintegrating wow, so yeah, maybe a forged piston would have held up a little bit better, but uh a forged piston won't make up for a dangerous tune. This also could have been bad fuel, but it was most likely really high ignition timing too.

High boost pressure, a lot of heat, and this is what happens so. These have the water to air intercooler systems and the pump can fail on those as well and i'm not sure exactly how good ford's safety features in the ecu are. I'm sure it dumps all the timing when it sees intake air temperatures get really high, but sometimes that's too late, but i just took this ring off here and uh yeah. This is a really bad piston.

So anyway, let's uh, let's take a look at the most important part, which is the cylinder all right here we go. Let's give it a little wipe and yeah you can see. You can definitely see some scoring in there, especially towards the bottom. Okay.

So the top isn't too bad, but yeah there you go so i think that piston could have done a lot more damage than this. This really isn't bad at all and it'll definitely go away once it gets bored but yeah. I can definitely feel a little bit of scuff in here. So what happens when you get into boost and continue to detonate when your piston already looks like this is it starts to look like this.

This is out of my turbo trans. Am we definitely had a bad tune and i went to the track when it was like a hundred degrees out 93 octane pump gas, not the best tune hot day and yeah, but i did drive it home with this piston. With this hole, i drove it. A hundred miles home, i just had to fill it up with about two quarts of extra oil on the way home, but on the highway it was kind of funny.

Once the torque converter locked up, i mean it's still running on seven cylinders. It was smooth. It was smooth as glass and we were going so fast. You couldn't even see any smoke coming out of the tailpipe, so there were a few times where i kind of like tricked myself into thinking.

The engine was okay, because i didn't know this had happened. I knew something bad happened, um and i assumed this happened, but there were a few times. I was just cruising and i'm like we're. Okay, this thing's gon na be fine and then i'd come to a light and be shaken and blown smoke everywhere.

But anyway, that wasn't the case for the lightning, though go forward there, we go this one's just super dirty. I didn't clean this obviously, but yeah pretty good shape. Okay got baron coming down with this one, it popped off the cap. Look, it's got a little ford stamp on there.

Let's see these bearings did really good and just another dirty piston, no damage to this one, all right. Last one before we get the crank out yeah. This one's got some damage, nothing horrible, but it started. It started right over here.

Oh wait, a minute. We got a little piece of ring too, but yeah. This one was starting to go starting to get a little a little scratchy here on the sides, all right. So overall, this crank looks really good.

The journals don't have any excessive wear. There are no scratches, so i think we're good to reuse the crank and the block, but i am going to separate the two we're gon na. Remove this crank right now, send it to the machine shop to be polished and i'll. Try and get footage of that, for you guys and we're gon na send the block out to be cleaned and also board out to fix any of the scuffing and scratches in the cylinders, and then we're definitely going to paint this as well and make it look.

Nice and pretty so at this point, i'm going to remove the crank - and this is a very interesting setup here on the bottom end. So you have two bolts here and then you have two pins or dowels right here and then you do have your side bolts for the mains, so you have one here and one on the other side. So i guess you could call this a four bolt main. It's kind of a hybrid because the doll pins don't offer the strength of actually having four bolts here on the bottom, but they do offer some support.

And then you have the side bolts here. So i'm not sure of the exact terminology for this main setup. But i'd say it's not as strong as a real six bolt, but it's also stronger than your traditional four bolt and i'm just gon na go around and do all of the side. Bolts.

First, i'm gon na say that first crack very satisfying i'll go ahead and zip these out all the way and i'm going to be getting some arp hardware. I think for the bottom end as well, i'm definitely doing head studs, but i might do some of these main bolts as well, and then these guys, for the most part, just come right out. Some of them are harder than others, and if these get stuck, you can pry them out a little bit. There's probably a special tool for these we're just gon na be real gentle.

There we go and just to show you guys it's very easy to move the crank around with nothing connected to it. So if you ever put an engine together - and it's not this easy - you did something wrong all right time for our big main cap, bolts i'll, go ahead and just loosen these all up by hand right off the bat. Then we're going to remove this threaded stand off here. That is where the oil pump picked up the bolts to, and it's not held in very tight, all right there, you go all right.

Well, i was too excited to take this engine apart and i forgot to take off the plate here for the rear main no big deal we can sneak in here and get it off, but after the flex plate. I should have taken this guy off now. Let's get this rear main cover off and these are glued on so there we go the rear, main seal stuck on the crank here so check it out the rear main seal kind of came apart there on us at this point, we're just going to remove the Remainder of these bolts, and now we can go ahead and lift off the main cap. There.

We go excellent, awesome bearings. These look great and you can see here that these are labeled number one and number two and so on. So you can't mess this up and they also give you a little arrow here to point towards the front of the engine, a little bit of wear on this guy. Nothing too crazy, all right last main cap and we got number five coming out, and this should have a three piece thrust bearing so you can see this part of the thrust bearing here and then on the other side.

There isn't anything. It just rides right. Inside of this groove on the crank, and then you can see here we have the other half of the thrust bearing and there's one over here. Two, so only three pieces: that's normal! Hey alex.

Can you do a crank curl? For me, oh yeah, here we go. I wonder what this weighs. Oh, it's heavy. This is more than i would curl.

This is a lot more than i would actually curl wow. This is really heavy. Oh yeah! I don't know how many of these i can do. Jeez come on.

You can do another one. We need a lightened crankshaft here, we'd, probably gain like 100 horsepower. We got forged forearms all right, forge four. Here we go.

Let's see if i can do five of these things. One two three and the proper form here is to just get your whole body in a big swinging motion and it's a multi-muscle group exercise, yeah. Okay, so then you can see here we have our main bearings just go ahead and pop these out. These are all getting replaced anyway, and you can see here the thrust washers that i was talking about or thrust bearings all right.

I got the tesla suspension lowering here, so we can load it up, and this is what happens when your pickup truck goes down. You have to haul engines in in teslas, it's mandatory, so we got our moving blanket all right. Let's get any of the remaining oil there we go perfect. So what do you do when your pickup truck has a bad engine and you need to haul an engine whale? You use a tesla.

This is all we have right here. This is the best vehicle in my entire fleet, outside of the pickup truck to haul an engine, because it's a hatch, i guess we could use the gsx, but that was a higher hatch. That's a higher hatch yeah! I just i lowered the suspensions. Look at this tailgate action on the tesla, all right, peter! Let's do it do you think we can lift this up.

This is a cast iron block here, people i think we can do it. I think you've been doing your uh cam curls yeah yeah. I think we can try. Oh my god.

This is light. This is light. Okay, totally normal rich rebuilds eat your heart out buddy. This is how you v8 swap a tesla wow.

That was the easiest thing ever. Okay, we got ta get the crank seriously. If you don't wan na buy dumbbells and workout equipment, you could probably pick up a used crank for like 50 bucks and do a lot. You could do a lot with this.

Look at this overhead press, although it's not it's a little bit heavier on the like one of your arms, is going to be stronger than the other okay, so this might not be 100 proper method of transporting engine components, but we're going like about two blocks away. Luckily, we found a machine shop right down the street and we're gon na bring them the main caps as well they're, all labeled, so i'll know where to go and uh. Yes, excellent. Look at this there you have it guys.

My svt lightning engine is is really bad. This started off just needing head gaskets and now it needs everything and we could simply rebuild it with stock parts, but no we couldn't i mean who, who would do that? No one? No one would do that. I had a few people comment: they're, like you, should uh replace the bearings and rings and stuff on this motor. While you got it apart, i'm like dude.

If i'm doing that, if i'm going that far it's getting forged everything and a bigger blower and a complete exhaust system - e85 multiple fuel pumps, probably more intercooler, cooling and uh, whatever else you need in a lightning so anyway, guys that'll do it for this video. I hope you really enjoyed this carnage at my expense. I know i did actually. I did have a lot of fun here, um, so we're gon na send this out to the machine shop.

It's realistically gon na be like three or four weeks before i get it back, but that'll give me time to order up our pistons and rods and figure everything else out, so that when we get the block back, we can just kind of reassemble it all. In possibly one video, so if you enjoyed this one, give it a big thumbs up share the video with your friends subscribe if you're new and most importantly, have an awesome day, and if you have an svt lightning pick up an svt, lightning shirt. I'll leave a link and a coupon code down below catch you in the next video you.